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Cool Tubes


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sorry to be a wet blanket but it seems that cooltubes are now available over the counter quite easy.

 

they have them in HAP for $80 i think (fully equiped with mogul socket, suspension points, and australian plug)

 

the other hydro shop near to me also had one the other day, (same make as HAP) and he said i could have it for $70

 

so it seems to me that they are commercially available at a lower cost than they can be made for???

 

i believe these models are coming through accent hydroponics in sydney, i don't know if there are any pics of them on their site?

 

:thumbsup:

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Guest niall
sorry to be a wet blanket but it seems that cooltubes are now available over the counter quite easy.

 

Good news then. Those prices are very cheap, so I'd personally want to know what type of glass they're using - how heat resistant is it, e.g. if your fan died, thickness etc. The Schott boro I quoted is fucking thick, heat resistant borosilicate glass - the same pyrex used for bongs but thicker (2-3mm usually).

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the glass of the actual bulb isn't borosilicate glass (why can't you just say pyrex like everyone else niall :thumbsup: ) so I can't see why the tube would need to be. Actually this is a guess, I don't know for a fact bulb glass isn't pyrex, but I'd be surprised if it was.

 

Any temp change from a fan failure would be gradual and I'd be surprised if it made any type of glass crack. Remember even if the fan fails there is still a path for the hot air to escape.

 

Also, the thicker the glass the less efficient use you will get from your light :thumbsup:

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i've used vases and they are quite susecptible to cracks but that's runnin 1000w. lookin at merlins pics though that glass seems pretty thick and should work no worries even with a 1000. biggest prob is small cracks when cuttin the glass which often leads to bigger cracks.

 

peace

c

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Guest niall
the glass of the actual bulb isn't borosilicate glass so I can't see why the tube would need to be.

 

It doesn't, I didn't say it did, what I said was that you would want something heat resistant like boro.

 

Secondly, bulbs are designed for this purpose - any old glass is not. Boro is. Thirdly, pressure.

 

(why can't you just say pyrex like everyone else niall :peace: )

 

Cos pyrex is boro, boro isn't pyrex. Pyrex is a trademarked brand name, the glass itself is called borosilicate.

 

Any temp change from a fan failure would be gradual and I'd be surprised if it made any type of glass crack. Remember even if the fan fails there is still a path for the hot air to escape.

 

Depends on your ambient, thickness of the glass, proximity to the glass, airflow.. It would be relatively gradual, e.g. compared to an explosion, but not necessarily gradual.

 

Also, the thicker the glass the less efficient use you will get from your light :peace:

 

Sure, but that's why you want to weigh up all of the variables, not just one. Efficiency is important, but at the cost of volatile explosions in a confined space, close to electricals, dangerous pressurised gases....? Up to you mate, I'm just providing information and costs in case someone finds it useful.

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