Organic, pro-biotic and organic growing without bottled nutrients

[papasmurf999]

I have around 10L left.. happy to try it, how does one make a tea ?

I think you put some compost in like a panty hose type thing wack it in a bucket with an air stone for like 24 hours.

[Inthewoods]

Even just let it soak in a bucket without air.

 

I've been sprinkling some of the recharge pack onto my seedlings with worm castings and it seems to have really helped thicken the stems. Thickest stumpy ones I've ever had. And they only have first set of leaves. One is booming ahead of others, I also have other things sprouting in along side them which helps.

 

Just weed seeds from the compost I think.

 

Perslane usually. I eat it occasionally when it gets too big, it's not bad, full of omega fats.

[itchybromusic]

that's basically it  , water aerated with added compost & food 

as inthewoods said there are also steeped teas 

 

now , without a microscope & the skill to identify what your 

extracting & multiplying you could be brewing anything 

 

imo the better the starting material the more chance your 

extracting a divers range of beneficial microorganisms 

in saying that , there is more to it than just good starting material 

air , food & the water all need to be adequate

 

will also say i've brewed a few teas & used them without a negative effect to plants

& i don't have a scope or can't identify organisms i'm extracting  

 

this guy has done a shit load of tests  , on teas & how to make compost teas http://www.microbeorganics.com/

i like his air lift brewer & have made my own with PVC pipe , no stocking required just put the compost in loose , your soil drenching

https://youtu.be/Bke2roSsfWM

https://youtu.be/pKj7LV3hgrQ

 

Recipes and Technique;

In case I have not been clear enough above, our goal in making ACT is to extract,  multiply and grow

mostly aerobic microorganisms in as large a diversity as possible and inclusive of three basic groups;

bacteria/archaea, protozoa [flagellates & naked amoebae] and fungi. (Some [vermi]compost will contain

rotifers which are extracted into ACT. These cycle nutrients in similar fashion to protozoa and are a

bonus if present.) 

Making ACT is not about putting in ingredients which directly benefit the plants. The foodstocks used

are strictly to feed or benefit the microorganisms which in turn benefit the plants.

When I jumped on the compost tea bandwagon years back I utilized the whole gambit of ingredients

recommended by the current (at that time) supposed authorities. These ingredients or foodstocks

included, humic acid, kelp meal, black strap molasses, baby oatmeal (oat flour), fish hydrolysate,

alfalfa meal, etc. We used variations of these ingredients in our 1200 gallon ACT maker on our farm

and microscopic observation showed success.

I also experimented with using some rock/clay powders as ingredients and observed differences in the

microbial make up which had positive results applied to the soil and plants. The types used were mostly

soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite.

Along the line somewhere we left humic acid out of a brew and noticed an increase in microbial numbers

so we stopped using it ourselves but, possibly irresponsibly, I continued to recommend it because the

‘bigwigs’ did so. It was not until I devised a method to test each foodstock independently that I began to

change my tune and begin to go against the grain of the contemporary experts.

By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;

1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed

that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep

It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say

definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is

enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not

mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.

2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea

following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used

very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean

that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!

3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados

were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including

ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to

e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS,

it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.

4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a

fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)

5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has

done more testing on this than I have.


The result of all this is that my attitude towards recipes for ACT has really evolved over the years with a trend towards

the more simple. I know that there are a lot of people who place importance on creating a bacterial or fungal dominant

ACT. At one time I myself was so influenced, however, the more I’ve learned and unlearned about living soil and a

functioning microbial population interacting with plants, the more I’ve been led to allow the soil and plants to decide

which microbes are actively needed by the rhizosphere team. What this means is that 9 times out of 10 I’m trying to

create a balanced ACT with a decent ratio of the three basic microbial groups. When this hits the soil, some will go

dormant to wake up later and some will be immediately put into action at the direction of the needs of the soil and plants.

The exceptions to this may be if I am attempting to battle a particular pathogen and want to attack it with a heavy fungal

or bacterial (or a combo) ACT. In these situations some tweaking of recipes and timing can be helpful. If attempting

these variations, a microscope is really the only way to confirm the desired microbial population. I have outlined some

recipes which may trend towards a certain microbial group (or combo) or may assist with certain pathogens.

 

recipes are on his web site ( link above ) just after this copy & paste section 

Edited January 29, 2019 by itchybromusic

[DoNothingGarden]

that's basically it  , water aerated with added compost & food 

as inthewoods said there are also steeped teas 

 

now , without a microscope & the skill to identify what your 

extracting & multiplying you could be brewing anything 

 

imo the better the starting material the more chance your 

extracting a divers range of beneficial microorganisms 

in saying that , there is more to it than just good starting material 

air , food & the water all need to be adequate

 

will also say i've brewed a few teas & used them without a negative effect to plants

& i don't have a scope or can't identify organisms i'm extracting  

 

this guy has done a shit load of tests  , on teas & how to make compost teas http://www.microbeorganics.com/

i like his air lift brewer & have made my own with PVC pipe , no stocking required just put the compost in loose , your soil drenching

https://youtu.be/Bke2roSsfWM

https://youtu.be/pKj7LV3hgrQ

 

Recipes and Technique;[/size]

In case I have not been clear enough above, our goal in making ACT is to extract,  multiply and grow [/size]

mostly aerobic microorganisms in as large a diversity as possible and inclusive of three basic groups; [/size]

bacteria/archaea, protozoa [flagellates & naked amoebae] and fungi. (Some [vermi]compost will contain [/size]

rotifers which are extracted into ACT. These cycle nutrients in similar fashion to protozoa and are a [/size]

bonus if present.) [/size]Making ACT is not about putting in ingredients which directly benefit the plants. The foodstocks used [/size]

are strictly to feed or benefit the microorganisms which in turn benefit the plants.[/size]When I jumped on the compost tea bandwagon years back I utilized the whole gambit of ingredients [/size]

recommended by the current (at that time) supposed authorities. These ingredients or foodstocks [/size]

included, humic acid, kelp meal, black strap molasses, baby oatmeal (oat flour), fish hydrolysate, [/size]

alfalfa meal, etc. We used variations of these ingredients in our 1200 gallon ACT maker on our farm [/size]

and microscopic observation showed success.[/size]I also experimented with using some rock/clay powders as ingredients and observed differences in the [/size]

microbial make up which had positive results applied to the soil and plants. The types used were mostly [/size]

soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite.[/size]Along the line somewhere we left humic acid out of a brew and noticed an increase in microbial numbers [/size]

so we stopped using it ourselves but, possibly irresponsibly, I continued to recommend it because the [/size]

‘bigwigs’ did so. It was not until I devised a method to test each foodstock independently that I began to [/size]

change my tune and begin to go against the grain of the contemporary experts.[/size]By[/size] testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;[/size]1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed [/size]

that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep [/size]

It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. [/size]I cannot say [/size]

definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) [/size]but it is [/size]

enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not [/size]

mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.[/size]2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea [/size]

following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used [/size]

very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean [/size]

that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is![/size]3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados [/size]

were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including [/size]

ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to [/size]

e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, [/size]

it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.[/size]4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a [/size]

fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)[/size]5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has [/size]

done more testing on this than I have.[/size]The result of all this is that my attitude towards recipes for ACT has really evolved over the years with a trend towards[/size]

the more simple. I know that there are a lot of people who place importance on creating a bacterial or fungal dominant [/size]

ACT. At one time I myself was so influenced, however, the more I’ve learned and unlearned about living soil and a [/size]

functioning microbial population interacting with plants, the more I’ve been led to allow the soil and plants to decide [/size]

which microbes are actively needed by the rhizosphere team. What this means is that 9 times out of 10 I’m trying to [/size]

create a balanced ACT with a decent ratio of the three basic microbial groups. When this hits the soil, some will go [/size]

dormant to wake up later and some will be immediately put into action at the direction of the needs of the soil and plants.[/size]The exceptions to this may be if I am attempting to battle a particular pathogen and want to attack it with a heavy fungal [/size]

or bacterial (or a combo) ACT. In these situations some tweaking of recipes and timing can be helpful. If attempting [/size]

these variations, a microscope is really the only way to confirm the desired microbial population. I have outlined some [/size]

recipes which may trend towards a certain microbial group (or combo) or may assist with certain pathogens.[/size]

 

recipes are on his web site ( link above ) just after this copy & paste section

 

Exactly. I would skip the compost tea and just topdress with some high quality worm castings... Until U read Microbeman's website

[DoNothingGarden]

Even just let it soak in a bucket without air.

I've been sprinkling some of the recharge pack onto my seedlings with worm castings and it seems to have really helped thicken the stems. Thickest stumpy ones I've ever had. And they only have first set of leaves. One is booming ahead of others, I also have other things sprouting in along side them which helps.

Just weed seeds from the compost I think.

Perslane usually. I eat it occasionally when it gets too big, it's not bad, full of omega fats.

If attempting to multiply microbes for a compost tea with compost as a starter, it has to be aerated. You will end up breeding some nasty stuff otherwise, no way would I pour that on my soil.

[itchybromusic]

If attempting to multiply microbes for a compost tea with compost as a starter, it has to be aerated. You will end up breeding some nasty stuff otherwise, no way would I pour that on my soil.

not all anaerobes are bad 

but without microscope skills of identification you are risking it &

i do agree you would rather be adding beneficial microbes to a living system

than any microbe that could have a negative effect on that system  

 

however imo once you take bad microbes out of there perfect anaerobic environment 

& put them in a aerobic environment / living soil as a drench they will struggle to survive & become 

food for the dominate aerobic microbes in a living system 

 

it's a bit of yin & yang , you will have both in any living system , as long as the good guys 

are in charge , they keep there environment in check , change the environment , like over watering

you change who's in charge 

 

oh & top dressing is def more forgiving than soil drenching 

Edited January 29, 2019 by itchybromusic

[DoNothingGarden]

not all anaerobes are bad 

but without microscope skills of identification you are risking it &

i do agree you would rather be adding beneficial microbes to a living system

than any microbe that could have a negative effect on that system  

 

however imo once you take bad microbes out of there perfect anaerobic environment 

& put them in a aerobic environment / living soil as a drench they will struggle to survive & become 

food for the dominate aerobic microbes in a living system 

 

it's a bit of yin & yang , you will have both in any living system , as long as the good guys 

are in charge , they keep there environment in check , change the environment , like over watering

you change who's in charge 

 

oh & top dressing is def more forgiving than soil drenching

 

True Itchy, but I'm specifically talking about making compost tea. Steeping compost and a food source in still, unaerated water is a good way to brew some nasty stuff and is not considered an ACT which is what Microbeman has written about in detail. Why risk it? Leave the teas to nutrient/botanical or occasionally brewing an aerated compost tea. If you're after lacto ferments, cool... Whole other topic ! But don't make an anaerobic compost tea.

[itchybromusic]

True Itchy, but I'm specifically talking about making compost tea. Steeping compost and a food source in still, unaerated water is a good way to brew some nasty stuff and is not considered an ACT which is what Microbeman has written about in detail. Why risk it? Leave the teas to nutrient/botanical or occasionally brewing an aerated compost tea. If you're after lacto ferments, cool... Whole other topic ! But don't make an anaerobic compost tea.

yeah i basically agree with that dng

[DoNothingGarden]

yeah i basically agree with that dng

One of these days I would like to start learning KNF techniques... Make some lacto fertilisers. Would definitely help with living soils in smaller containers...

You are right about the good outcompeting the bad, this can be witnessed when leaving a compost too long without turning and it goes putrid... turn it and the smell goes away as actinomycetes, bacteria and fungi dominate with their new source of oxygen. we can throw a small body of finely balanced living soil in a container out of wack though by adding a bunch of unknown organisms... The larger the soil volume, the more resilient the soil food web will be.

[itchybromusic]

The larger the soil volume, the more resilient the soil food web will be.

more soil , bigger pots , absolutely