Growing Techniques
868 topics in this forum
-
- 37 replies
- 3.2k views
Hey Everyone, New member here, but already finding the Australian-focused discussion so great amongst a sea of largely US-based websites. Next week I am beginning my first grow. I have experience growing other flowers, and I am enjoying reading and learning a lot. My plan is to put two 600 Watt LED panels (I am confident in my choice; I understand the HPS system, but it won't work for me in terms of initial cost, upgrading is an option down the road) in a 1.5 x 1.5 x 2.0 tent. From what I can ascertain the panels will cool themselves sufficiently, especially with winter in my area. 4" exhaust fan pulling air through a carbon filter, then venting into the room, which i…
Last reply by MarySutherland, -
- 6 replies
- 613 views
My plants have just started flowering. I discovered 1 was male so I've chucked him outside well away from the others for the time being. Funnily enough he looks to be LOVING it outdoors with the leaves reaching for the sky. My girls are still going ok but not like old mate in the pure sunshine. So, is it wise to move my girls outdoors (obviously not near my horny boy) or should I leave them indoors as they are?
Last reply by smileysmoke, -
- 6 replies
- 703 views
Does anyone have any tips on doing a gorilla grow? Thinking about doing a couple gorilla grows this year. Going to start with a few Autos before its too hot and then try some fem beans. How should i go about keeping the plants hydrated threw out summer with 40+ degree days? Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app
Last reply by Erin, -
- 7 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi guys, second grow here. Do buds sites need light? I have read (on other websites) that they do. From what I understand, the flowers grow bigger? On the other hand, if there are less leaves then photosynthesis is not taking place as much? However, defoliation, especially around bud sites seems common practice to get lights to the bud sites. I defoliated quite a bit the plant at the back and the one at the front not much at all. Low stress training on both of them. Vegging for 4-5 months on both plants. Around 9 days into 12/12 light cycle. Back plant has a 10 gallon pot, front plant a 15 gallon. Grown in osmocote organics plus and powerfeed pink.
Last reply by Serrated edge, -
- 1 reply
- 443 views
Hey crew, Just wondering how to get my plants to start flowering ASAP! On 12/12 for a week, really need to get them outdoors in a hurry! Got too many so want to weed out before moving. Give a PK hit?? Any tips would be appreciated. They’re about 4ft and healthy, been in veg for about 12 weeks Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app
Last reply by coreycorey, -
- 1 reply
- 457 views
Hi, I have read up about stabilsing a strain and interested to get an answer to my question. I have a new strain, the first from the seeds that I produced via colloidal silver method. If I really like the way one phenotype has grown and tastes, to reproduce her do I clone a few then allow one to seed? Or is there a bigger process to get her stabilised? COP and WW
Last reply by kloud9, -
- 6 replies
- 765 views
So the Peyote Critical was topped as per LBH's tutorial after the 4th node. Plant is now 4 weeks from first breaking soil. For the second round of topping he states " ...All those nice new sprouts coming out of the middle of each arm...pull em! Everything doubles again!!" Ive read numerous links to this and others have questioned what exactly this means, so as to not fuck shit up. He accepts "it needs cleaning up a bit" but I have been unable to find exactly what to do....and suspect whatever I'm supposed to be topping should be done right about now. Could someone please show me via my photo where I am to attack??
Last reply by bomber, -
- 12 replies
- 1.6k views
I know the differences and the techniques required but was wondering if those experienced growers here would mind sharing which they prefer? I'm just like all the other noobs on here , who want the perfect balance between veg time and yield, but can see that every time you top the plant, it sets it back a little ( with obvious long term benefits). Taking this thought further, are there people here who'd rather bend the plant as it grows to break the apical growth rather than topping it? I'm weeks away from this, but reading up in advance, so wondered what others felt? Im growing in a tent so height is a factor. Was going to scrog, bought the PVC piping etc but then …
Last reply by bomber, -
- 5 replies
- 714 views
I bought some fabric bags off eBay. 40cm diameter/30 cm high. Im worried that height may ultimately be an issue in my new tent. I saw somewhere that people had folded their pot-rims down, then stapled them to reduce their height from 30cm, to say 20 to 25 cm. I used a volume calculator which showed 40cm diameter and 30 cm height = 9 gallons. If I reduce the pot to 20cm height, 40 cm diameter, it reduces it to 6 gallons, which is plenty for a LST or scrog grow. Question....is 20 cm deep enough, or will it not matter because the 6gallon volume is there? Thanks in advance....
Last reply by Old fox, -
- 6 replies
- 674 views
Hey friends, So basically as per title, was wondering pot sizes. this is my first grow and i was gonna start with 2 seeds in 30cm pots. however would i be hindering the yield so much by reducing to 20cm pots and maybe doing 4 pots? just wondering what the best option would be for my first time i didn't want to go all out with 4 pots and end up ruining them all and end up with nothing atleast if i ruin 2, i can try again.
Last reply by micmac, -
- 8 replies
- 952 views
Is there any point leaving the lights on before they pop up from the soil? When they first spout from the soil would they benifits from the lights staying on a day or 2 or going straight to 16/8h of light? And with timers is just any timer from Bunnings going to do the job or are some of the cheaper ones not so good? Thanks for any advice.
Last reply by SIK, -
- 13 replies
- 1.3k views
Just wondering if anybody uses a a room monitor like the SensorPush or something similar to help dial in there rooms
Last reply by JayC, -
- 4 replies
- 511 views
Hey fellas I’m in my final 2 weeks and all I can say is wow there bigger then I have ever seen them and still almost 2 weeks left, that said I climbed in amongst them and there was a lot more lying over then I thought so I spent a frustrating hour or so trying to tie them up but at some points I felt I was possibly harming them as couldn’t help being abit rough pulling apart ect, I can’t really use a net in this space and there is just so much there to try and manage whilst crawling arounder under neath and squashed around edges. Am I just worrying over nothing or is it possibly damaging them, I would love to hear anyone’s tips and tricks about this Cheers Poste…
Last reply by frankyboy, -
- 6 replies
- 707 views
Hi all. I have recently, and very proudly, produced viable seeds from a recent crossing. They have germinated and I am about to pop them in soil. Can anyone advice on how to proceed with noting the growth, characteristics, etc to find the right phenotype? Is there an excel table or program that will help me document my adventure? I'm not one for note writing but this must be documented if I want to produce the strain I'm looking for. PS: How would I guess the thc/cbd ratio? is it based on the parents?
Last reply by frankyboy, -
- 3 replies
- 508 views
hi, just wondering how to get around this without causing too many issues, i have a plant in 1st week of flower / i mean turned lights down from 18 to 12 hours 2 days ago!. was originally running from 430 am to 1030 pm. now on a 12 hour cycle starting at 430am till 430pm. only problem is that i should actually run it through the night like say 6pm until 6 am due to the cold. nights are now down to as low as 6 degrees and i want to run lights during the night instead of the day. is there a safe way of doing this? pistils are already out so i need your advice. do i bite the bullet and run it from 430 am all the way to 6pm the following day? or do i just leave them in the d…
Last reply by seedsmanspain,
