Steve Green Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 (edited) Cannabis like a lot of other plants made its way around the world falling out the arse of birds, and giving them a nice fertalized spot to get a start in life nothing wrong with a bit of poo as long as its not from meat eating animals and you know what's in it, all the poo I use comes from my placeI wouldn't use shit from any commercial production, fuck knows what garbage they put in themI normally use dirt out of my outdoor plot for me indoor pots, never had a problem, they grow almost as quick as areoponicsGood feedback. The source of the manures claims to certify everything which I know is not necessarily a guarantee, but I do trust them so I might use some of the cow manure but steer clear of the chicken. Good to hear about your results. I think it will take a bit more work to keep the life in the pots but I'm willing to do it until circumstances change for me Edited May 30, 2017 by Steve Green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Alfalfa aka Lucerne in oz , can be used in many ways plant lucerne seed in you pot , lucerne is a nitrogen fixing plant which will attract nitrogen fixing bacteria into the soil where your canna roots will be lucerne has a naturally occurring plant growth regulator , PGR = triacontanol & is in it's highest amounts at seed sprout look into making seed sprout teas , keep in mind a lucerne seed sprout tea can be real hot if too many seeds used can make seed sprout teas with corn = PGR cytokinin &barley = germination enzyme chitinase , the same you end up with using crustacean shells = chitin don't forget to check if your bio-char is activated , do not mix un-activated bio-char in your mix , it will suck lots of nutes within it's pores activating is not hard to do , mix the amount of char you plan to use with the amount of castings you plan to use& let sit for 2 weeks otherwise get an organic fish fert like charlie carp or something , fish hydrolysate better than fish emulsion , & mixto bottle instructions & add to char , that's it , activated & wet if you have the time use the castings method , if no time use the fish hydrolysate method = can be a little bit of a painmixing wet char evenly , not a major prob though To 1.5 cubic foot of base mix =1 part peat , 1 part castings or compost or 50/50 of both , i part aeration = small 7mm scoria or rice hulls or mix of both 3/4 cup Neem cake /meal 3/4 cup kelp meal 3/4 cup crab shell 3/4 cup gypsum 7.5 cups basalt rock dust 9.0 cups activated bio-char 1.5 cups malted barley powder ( you buy malted barley from brew store , you want a lite colored Pilsner barley , coffee grind to make a powder ) this mix is ready to go , no cooking , a couple of weeks sitting won't hurt but you can plant straight in hope that gives you something to compare to 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thirstyman88 Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Is it safe/trustworthy to get things like Crab shell powder from Ebay? I'm not concerned about LE but just wondering about quality etc. as I am having a hard time finding some of these amendments. By the way, thanks everyone for your input on this thread. I have been lurking in the background and learning a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carnage Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 yea welcome to australia manamazon.com is the closest i can find a decent price on for those ingredients.might be a few moar years yet till aus opens up customs doors to cheap importation of fertiizers Is it safe/trustworthy to get things like Crab shell powder from Ebay? I'm not concerned about LE but just wondering about quality etc. as I am having a hard time finding some of these amendments. By the way, thanks everyone for your input on this thread. I have been lurking in the background and learning a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Green Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Alfalfa aka Lucerne in oz , can be used in many ways plant lucerne seed in you pot , lucerne is a nitrogen fixing plant which will attract nitrogen fixing bacteria into the soil where your canna roots will be lucerne has a naturally occurring plant growth regulator , PGR = triacontanol & is in it's highest amounts at seed sprout look into making seed sprout teas , keep in mind a lucerne seed sprout tea can be real hot if too many seeds used can make seed sprout teas with corn = PGR cytokinin &barley = germination enzyme chitinase , the same you end up with using crustacean shells = chitin don't forget to check if your bio-char is activated , do not mix un-activated bio-char in your mix , it will suck lots of nutes within it's pores activating is not hard to do , mix the amount of char you plan to use with the amount of castings you plan to use& let sit for 2 weeks otherwise get an organic fish fert like charlie carp or something , fish hydrolysate better than fish emulsion , & mixto bottle instructions & add to char , that's it , activated & wet if you have the time use the castings method , if no time use the fish hydrolysate method = can be a little bit of a painmixing wet char evenly , not a major prob though To 1.5 cubic foot of base mix =1 part peat , 1 part castings or compost or 50/50 of both , i part aeration = small 7mm scoria or rice hulls or mix of both 3/4 cup Neem cake /meal 3/4 cup kelp meal 3/4 cup crab shell 3/4 cup gypsum 7.5 cups basalt rock dust 9.0 cups activated bio-char 1.5 cups malted barley powder ( you buy malted barley from brew store , you want a lite colored Pilsner barley , coffee grind to make a powder ) this mix is ready to go , no cooking , a couple of weeks sitting won't hurt but you can plant straight in hope that gives you something to compare to It sure does, thank you very much. I actually have malted barley available too so I'll grind a bit of that up as directed Thanks everyone for your input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 (edited) Is it safe/trustworthy to get things like Crab shell powder from Ebay? I'm not concerned about LE but just wondering about quality etc. as I am having a hard time finding some of these amendments. By the way, thanks everyone for your input on this thread. I have been lurking in the background and learning a lot!crab shell was the only one i couldn't find here & brought from amazon / us we have a pretty decent sized fishing industry here , we should have these items already why fishing guys aren't diversifying & making compost out of there waste , seems strange to me i think it's QLD that has a Neem farm , they press there own oil , i'm told you can rock up there & take as much neem cake/mealas you like free , it's there byproduct of oil making Edited May 30, 2017 by itchybromusic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 It sure does, thank you very much. I actually have malted barley available too so I'll grind a bit of that up as directed Thanks everyone for your inputyou can continue to use the barley as a top dress as you move thought the growing stages , barley top dresses every 14 days or so is cool can also pick up rice hulls from a brew store , work well as air in the soil & will add silica as they break down feedin fungi , keep in mind they will break down so don't just use rice hulls as air on there own , maybe like 20/80 or 30/70 mix with scoria or whatever you use for air perlite is fine but in a living soil that you plan to reuse over & over like the no till guys perlite will break down & no longer perform it's gig of aeration in saying that hopefully by the time that happens you have enough soil life / worms aerating the soil for you anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Green Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 you can continue to use the barley as a top dress as you move thought the growing stages , barley top dresses every 14 days or so is cool can also pick up rice hulls from a brew store , work well as air in the soil & will add silica as they break down feedin fungi , keep in mind they will break down so don't just use rice hulls as air on there own , maybe like 20/80 or 30/70 mix with scoria or whatever you use for air perlite is fine but in a living soil that you plan to reuse over & over like the no till guys perlite will break down & no longer perform it's gig of aeration in saying that hopefully by the time that happens you have enough soil life / worms aerating the soil for you anyway Again, all good advice. Thanks mate. Top dressing was the original plan with the barley but I'll put a little in the mix too. The aeration mix I'm using is a combination of zeolite, pumice and scoria from a bonsai supplier. He gave me a bag of vermiculite as well so might try a little of that as well. Won't be touching perlite. The castings I have are full of capsules so should have worms in fairly quickly. I'll need to let the mix sit for at least 1-2 months (couple things going that mean I can't start right away), I've always thought you should turn soil as it composts, or cooks as we like to say. With a mix like this (75L in a 100L plastic tub) would it need to be turned to aerate or would the tilling do more damage than good to the microbial life I'm trying breed. As the worms will take a while to hatch. Probably not a big deal but just seeing what you would do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Again, all good advice. Thanks mate. Top dressing was the original plan with the barley but I'll put a little in the mix too. The aeration mix I'm using is a combination of zeolite, pumice and scoria from a bonsai supplier. He gave me a bag of vermiculite as well so might try a little of that as well. Won't be touching perlite. The castings I have are full of capsules so should have worms in fairly quickly. I'll need to let the mix sit for at least 1-2 months (couple things going that mean I can't start right away), I've always thought you should turn soil as it composts, or cooks as we like to say. With a mix like this (75L in a 100L plastic tub) would it need to be turned to aerate or would the tilling do more damage than good to the microbial life I'm trying breed. As the worms will take a while to hatch. Probably not a big deal but just seeing what you would do " The aeration mix I'm using is a combination of zeolite, pumice and scoria from a bonsai supplier" . perfect i store soil mixes in a 44gal drum , i don't think it needs turning , that's more of a compost thing in saying that if you have allot of hot amendments in your mix then it prob does need composting / turning the main reason i store the mix , which is not that hot , is protection from the weather & to keep the bugs out for as long as poss gnats finding a moist fresh soil mix is like a drunk finding the keys to the brewery , party time ! if you are needing to compost you can add some Bokashi to the mix of compost , will kick it along a lill quicker you might even see a lill bacterial mycelium formation like this on a blueberry seedling i have at home at the mo which is using a form of bokashi top dress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thirstyman88 Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 I thought when you top dress that you have to water it in. How are you achieving this in the reservoir pot thing? Are you still watering it normally only when top dressing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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