Sea of Green: Get a harvest every 2 weeks

[grok]

kudos to a master grower i learnd lotsa good stuff from dis post....helps me graduate from newbie grower..sherweet!!..thanks for taking the time to share yer knowledge.

[Al B. Fuct]

kudos to a master grower

 

Hey, I'm good at fishing, too. Some say I'm a master baiter.

 

i learnd lotsa good stuff from dis post....helps me graduate from newbie grower..sherweet!!..thanks for taking the time to share yer knowledge.

 

Glad you found it useful.

[1budman1]

Still stumpped!! Hey al would love a pic of a loaded tray. I have my shopping list all made out, plans and everything, but I'm still tripin on the 2'7 trays. If each pot is 8" across then 4 in a row is 32". Squared is 16 pots in one tray. I'm going to the store to look like a moron today. you know get a bunch of pots and line them up. Should amuse a few people. I'll ask one to take a pic for you guys.

[smochu]

Hey ther Al B. thanks for guiding me here from rollitup. . it was full of knowitall noobs...

 

I was wondering what, if any changes would be needed to facilitate a longer blooming or longer clone striking.

 

 

for instance could I just switch to a 2.5 wk schedule, resulting in a 10 wk hrvst? or maybe even 3wk schedule meaning 12wk hrvst or so?

 

 

What issues would you see being a problem?

 

 

also while I got your attention what do you know about the negative effects of high humidity on flowering plants and vegative for that matter.

[ozdaz]

@ Budman you won't even fit 16 pots in a 2'7''x2'7'' table they're only 31'' .Go for at least a 3'x3' or a 4'x4' table .Even with the 3'x3' tables that i use you lose 1.5'' on the lips of the table so in actually fact you only have 2'9'' 33'' growing space .So i can get 5 rows of 6'' pots in easiler .If you use the 8'' pots in a 3'x3' table you'll only get 15 in it ,you'll lose one pot because of the flood and drain fittings .

[Al B. Fuct]

Still stumpped!! Hey al would love a pic of a loaded tray.

 

Here you go. This is 24 x "175mm" (measurement of the bottom diameter of the pot, not the top) pots in a 2.7'^2 (~820mm^2) tray.

 

 

I usually only put in 23, but I've put in 24 to show they'll fit.

 

Sorry, my real-life plate has been very full and I haven't had much time to put in mucking about on OSA.

[Al B. Fuct]

@ Budman you won't even fit 16 pots in a 2'7''x2'7'' table

 

While it's a minor difference, my trays are (decimal) 2.7' (a tick more than 2' 8-3/8"), not 2' 7"- 822mm square to be precise. Reminds me how much I hate feet & fractional inches...

[1budman1]

Dude, I hate to call you on it but last time I did math lets see you've got 5 pots in the first row. 8x5=40 plus you got a little room on the end it looks like. I've got a lot of respect for you cause you've got a lot of experience that's for damn sure, but I'm a bag wearing type of guy that deals with measo's on a daily basis and have pretty much convinced myself that I gotta go with the 48" tables to fit that many pots, but now i'm wondering if I'll be short on light cause that doesn't calc out on the 48" tables. Actually I'm hooked on filthy fletches aero and think I'm gonna skip the flood and go aero. Love the fail safeness of your flood but I guess I'll take my chances with mister clogs and pump failures cause the yield sounds killer.

[Al B. Fuct]

8x5=40

 

Where'd you get 8x5 from?

 

23 pots fit comfortably in my 820mm^2 trays. I can fit 24 if I jam them in (bottoms won't sit flat in the tray). The flood tray plumbing prevents putting in the 25th pot. If you look at the photo, there's room for 5 rows of 5, except for one space in the very middle of the trays, where the overflow tube is fitted.

 

Flood systems are indeed better for lower maintenance and in my case, a bit of fail-safe protection due to the use of rockwool, which holds lots of water. I've been playing with Fytocell, but it's got some problems compared to rockwool, notably that a pot of Fytocell, even if wetted throughly, can float. Pots can fall over when they float if they are not well wedged in the tray against other pots. Dry Fytocell is like styrofoam- a tiny breeze (i.e. from a fan) will blow it all over the place.

 

I really dislike having to put a knee-hi stocking on each pot filled with Fytocell- the stockings are about $5 per pack of 4 pair, enough for only 8 pots. I have just put in a batch of pots with about 50mm of rockwool packed in the bottom and the remainder filled with Fytocell. If this works, the weight of the wet rockwool should keep the pots from floating and will also prevent crumbs of Fytocell from escaping through the drain holes, without stockings.

 

If you do aero (which I DO like a whole lot due to the amt of O2 aero can get to the roots), you can create a nutrient solution mist in a couple of different ways. You can either pump nute soln liquid through small sprayer apertures in a spray chamber or you can put bubble curtains in a tank, driven by an air pump. The air bubbles breaking the surface create a very fine mist, finer than you can make by forcing liquid through a sprayer aperture. Bubble curtains (aka air stones) do eventually crust up with nute salts but they don't clog up fully, without warning, unless cleaned every day or two as do liquid spray nozzles. Drip systems have small apertures which clog with nute salts unless cleaned frequently (at least every 2 days).

 

I have stayed with the flood system due to the fact that floods don't have any small apertures to clog. I don't always get a look in on my op every day, so this is important in my case.

 

My first op was a drip type in expanded clay pellets. I got annoyed with the drippers clogging and also found that the pellets, while re-usable, are hard to clean totally free of root material. Drop a handful of pellets and you will chase them all over the room. Step on one and they crunch to powder... you have to sweep it up.

[Al B. Fuct]

Hey ther Al B. thanks for guiding me here from rollitup. . it was full of knowitall noobs...

 

Well, now you now why I'm here on OSA and not RIU. The average level of experience on OSA is much higher. I've been at this for a long time but I still run into shit I can't easily sort out. Sometimes I miss the forest for the trees and the good folks here on OSA help me see better on some days.

 

I was wondering what, if any changes would be needed to facilitate a longer blooming or longer clone striking.

 

for instance could I just switch to a 2.5 wk schedule, resulting in a 10 wk hrvst? or maybe even 3wk schedule meaning 12wk hrvst or so?

 

What issues would you see being a problem?

 

You can time it any way you want. When I don't have a strong demand for buds and have the space to permit it, I will let plants flower for 10 wks. There's a few things that are harder for you to control, like how long clones will be happy in a clone box. Once clones have a nice spray of roots, they do prefer to be transplanted into a pot of media. If I get profuse roots on a batch of clones (roughly by day 10) but can't put them in the flowering area (or mother area) straight away, I'll switch off the heat mat in the clone box and lighten the watering dosage until I can get them in to pots of media.

 

also while I got your attention what do you know about the negative effects of high humidity on flowering plants and vegative for that matter.

 

On flowering plants, high RH can encourage mould, particularly when colas start getting fat and well developed. Sometimes called 'grey mould' or 'bud rot,' it's a quick way to disappointment. Bud rot wipes out the biggest and best colas in a day or two.

 

High RH is not as big a deal in the mother plant area, but it can enourage powdery mildew, which might require treatment.

 

I run it all at 24-26C at 30-50% RH.