Manutec bloom booster questions

[jasonwr6000]

Hi there.......

 

i recently put a post up re what nutes to use during flowering, and some one suggested manutec bloom booster......... so i went out and got some.........

 

i just have a few questions regarding it

 

(1) its says to disolve 5grams of it to 5 litres of water and apply weekly to the leaves and surrounding soil. Should i be using it weekly, and should i put it on the leaves also....i was just going to put in on the soil....

 

(2) before i found out about this fertilizer i was just using thrive general fert with a NPK of N12 P3 K6.

I gave my 2 plants some of this about 6 days ago before i found out about manutec........Should i wait a week or so before i give them some of the manutec ? or can i give them some of it now......

 

one of my plants should be ready in about 3 or 4 weeks and the other about 6 weeks........

 

thanks

jason

[Frazz]

Heya jason yea i use Manutec on outdoors , provided that your plants get good ammounts of plain water in between the Manutec feeds to ensure there isnt a build-up of nutrient salts . in pots or in the ground i use every 10 days, though this is only my personel choice ... i cease using it in the last coupla weeks, see i use it from about 3rd week of flower till about 6th week..

... of course it depends on how good the soil that they are growing in is .. you know if its shit soil with bugger all nutes in it i would use every 7 days, but if they soil has plenty of organic matter or manures it wont need fertiliser so often...

 

best of luck with your girls

 

[jasonwr6000]

Thanks for the reply Frazzle

[Stoney]

hey there jason

 

i am using some atm along with some hydro nutes and abit of pk 13/14 added as well

 

and as frazz said just make sure they get a good amount of water during the fert feeds you will be fine and also dont forget to give at least 2 weeks for flush

 

also i dont use it over the leaves or buds just the soil if ya wanna use a foliar spray some soda water and worm juice will be spot on

 

cheerz :Dj:

[cerebro]

So you use it at the recommended concentration?

[Frazz]

I use it at about 3/4 strength 3-4 times over flowering cycle, but depends on how fertile your soil is to start with ... i have used at full strength but i used to give it drink with plain water 1st then full strength nutes, so really that dilutes it anyway ....

 

[bufo marinus]

Frazzle grew some of the biggest plants I have ever seen pics of, but I doubt it had much to do with the Manutec fertiliser.

You'd have to agree Frazz that your soil was very rich beforehand?

Plus it drained well, with good water supply.

[Frazz]

I did grow big in the pig-sty but they never got any manutec, before i used the pig sty i always used manutec outdoors with reasonable good results, but there seems to be no substitute for well aged manure and blood and bone ....

its just like us, we grow better on nature's minerals and vitamins rather than multi-vitamin supplements

 

Concentrated chemical fertilizer forms are often lacking in the minor or trace elements that are essential for plant growth, unless used at very low rates chemical fertilizers will kill soil micro-organisms and earthworms.

As a result of their chemical form, chemical nutrients are also either leached easily from the soil, or react with other chemicals converting to forms that are unavailable. The long-term result is the acidification of the soil.

 

The use of organic nutrient sources avoids the problems that chemical fertilizers cause to the soil, organic nutrient sources from animal manures, ocean fish, blood and bone and similar products provide the major and minor nutrients needed by plants. Importantly, these nutrients are in a form that encourages the growth of micro-organisms populations that are essential for making the nutrients available to the plant roots.

As a result of learning this Iam now moving toward fish, seaweed and fulvic acid based fertilizers/additives.

 

[cerebro]

Have you checked out Seamungus? They sell it at Bunnings.

It's got Humic acid as well as the usual seaweed etc. Slow release pellets.

Good to see these chains getting a few more choices for us organic folk.

[gouger]

Easily the best once your soil is conditioned to balance Ph and organic matter levels is pelletised manure. Which of course sheep, goats, rabbits and kangaroos all do very well without needing a composting system and a pelletising plant. Otherwise products like Dynamic Lifter and Rooster Booster are very useful for all growth stages. I don't use blood and bone any more. I prefer to use seaweed or fish products. Seasol is a good soil conditioner. Maxicrop is one of those fertilizers that just make the plant look healthier rather than force growth but this is essential for there is no future in raising a plant to maturity and watch it get the yellows during flowering.

I can continue to use pelletised manure all the way through and only give two or three applications of Bloom Booster, phostogen, and Trace Elements mix(usually maxicrop) all applied with one of those lawn fertilizer spray-jet bottles that people only use once. I use them for years and I pick them up for free.

This method uses probably hundreds of litres rather than one spoonful to five litres so yes you can easily double or triple the spoonfuls. Do not do this in hot sun best in late afternoon or very early in the dawn during summer months.

 

So.. I said more than what was needed but what needs to be said is that Manutec Bloom Booster is really best for early stage flowering. The last applications of bloom boosting nutrients should have nil Nitrogen. yes; N = 0.0%WW and something like 30% or more of both P and K. If you really want better buds.

ie:This one, made by Advanced Nutrients is American and is for the later stages of flowering note the NPK:

• N = 0.0%
  P = 50.0%
  K = 30.0%
  and adds magnesium and thiamine
  

Note .. you can buy rock phosphate and applications of which will last for decades rather than a couple of weeks and yet is the same price per tonne as Super Phosphate.

Many of the minerals and trace elements can be added via crushed rocks, powdered dolomite etc. Charcoal and wood ashes can raise the potassium levels.

 

As for humus organic matter or mulch. I find that using manures either collected manures or commercially available manures will improve soil life and increase organic matter levels plus these fetilizers are particularly attractive to worms which do all the digging for you.

Grape Marc is one of the better moisture retaining mulches and can save a fortune in water(if you can find a source) It also contains many nutrients and is sterile. Needs careful composting if you get it hot from the distilleries.

Any straw is fine as a mulch during the whole of the season and I tend to cover a grape marc mulch with straw to both cool the black grape marc top surface and to reflect light under the leaves and into the centre of the plant.

Don't add high nitrogen mulches after the twelve week stage unless the plant appears to need it.. These include lawn clippings, lucerne hay, fresh manures.

All the Nitrogen the plant needs will be sourced and taken up by the plant during this period. Note that to do this .. there will still be Nitrogen in the soil for the plant to find for no self respecting Cannabis plant willl be still trying to grow after 12 weeks if there is no Nitrogen there.

 

Doing all of the above organic practices .. reduces the need to use bloom boosters .. The important thing to know is that you need those NPK statistics to do well.

It also matters to realise that fast release fertilizers such as super phosphate and ammonium nitrate will damage soil life.

However I have proven that all such fertilizers can be used; if you have built up a healthy organic soil sponge better known as a thick mulch(one with a well developed humus layer). A healthy soil profile can handle such things. However one should keep all the chemical analysis charts off the back of the label so that one can compare what has been done and what results occur.

The only other thing to remember is as has been pointed out .. it is far better to apply "less is more" as your fertilizing principle. If in doubt; add more water.

 

http://www.sgaonline.org.au/info_rated1_chemicals.html

- Sustainable Gardening Australia

 

Remember that it is a weed .. it will grow anywhere given a drop of water and a sunny spot. It has been recorded of C So

annabis that one inch of rain in one month in a semi arid clime will cause the plant to put on six feet of growth. Note .. that was NOT done in dry inland Australia.

Cannabis is a deep rooted plant for a so called annual. However many of you will know that if you keep returning it to growth stages it will not die, it will just keep pumping.

These deep roots will find whatever nutrients they need if they are there. Sop growing in an old pig pen is surely groing to improve their lot.

 

Manutec bloom booster is only used .. during early flowering stages to give the plant more PK. There is nil need for N at this stage .. if the plant hasn't put on the growth before flowering.. then it isn't going to .. Not unless you put it back inside and give it a blanket. For outdoors a plant will only go to flower when day length shortens perceptibly. Yes this can be manipulated but you sure as hell need a big cardboard box to drop over it. Usually by this time the warm season is well on the wane. So

A summary is:

• that Bloom Booster is really best for plants in pots.
  that it will improve bud quality outdoors but is best reduced to a lighter mix and sprayed on leaves weekly or daily in the first week.
  If used daily, reduce that concentration to one spoon in fifty litres.
  When you need bloom booster is when you do not need to apply Nitrogen.
  Bloom booster can be replaced with wood ashes and budgerigar shit.
  

Edited January 27, 2008 by gouger