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Get rid of the end caps on the extrusion, they are just there for looks and trap heat unnecessarily


Haha, that's good advice. They are just there for looks. If I find that the extrusion is getting too hot when I finally strap some LEDs onto it the ends will be the first things to go.

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I posted all this earlier but had to have it deleted because my email address and name were in the image names.


I had a crack at designing the PCB for my lights today based around the Cree XLamp XP-G3 white, red and blue LEDs.


The LED count is currently:


White: 64

Red (650nm): 20

Blue (450nm): 12


This count gives me the spectrum I'm looking for and according to my calculations I can run the LEDs at around 295W with the power supplies I've chosen. I used an online tool that Osram have available to get a rough idea of the spectrum analysis (image attached). Feedback on it would be great.


I'm going to design the light so you can turn off the red and blue LEDs to inspect your plants. Do you guys think this is a good idea or overkill?





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Very nice, is that much blue and red needed?


Pack a few more LEDs in to get near the 320 mark of a Meanwell driver


Good question. I had a go at matching the photosynthesis chlorophyll A and B spectra as best I could. That's all I'm really basing my assumptions on. Also, I think it matches the published spectrum of some of the fancy LEDs that are on the market. If it's needed/makes a better light only time will tell. I'd like to give it a try and find out.


Regarding the LED number, the Meanwell driver pulls 3.5A from the wall when supplying the full 320W. I would like to run three of these from one socket daisy chained together, so I can only "safely" pull 10A in total. Hence, I'm under powering the driver somewhat. Of course, I've also "safely" pulled 20A out of a 10A socket when welding before but it's not a good idea long-term. 


Edited by putt4dough
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