after opinions for diagnosis

[Stix87]

Wet the coco it will eventually block the holes up . I fill my pots dry only have a ill bit of spill from the holes which soon block up. If I were you I would transplant straight to coco soon as possible .

[tangwena]

Blonde go coco and pierlite and use the blumats to water them with, then you only have to get the ec and ph right. Couldn't get simpler.

 

Tangwena

[Ford Fairlane]

Imo the cheap timers work just fine. I have used the same $6 timers for the last 4 grows amd had no dramas. Since you have the clay balls already, you may want to use a layer on the bottom of your pots, that will stop some of the medium coming out the holes.

[bl0nd3]

ahh sweet, cheers everyone -So you reckon move them again? i might just put canna coco on the top and wet it with water as the canna coco i have seems very fine, and always makes its way down, might be a little safer that ripping them up again.

 

Ford Fairlane is your timer able to set to turn on, say for 5 minutes, 15 times per day?

 

seems logical to put pebbles at the bottom, im unsure why i didnt think of this before. When i had the two mixed, every feed had a sandy/gritty black run-off, and i worry that if i have a circut system, that it may block tubes.... But i suppose another layer of flyscreen wire, and pebbles at the bottom.  Tanwenga, is the perlite for drainage or retention? ill have to look into these "blumats"...only reason i wasnt keen is not have control of when the water goes and stops but i suppose if its on constant drip it shouldnt matter. Iv actually done another "creative" ...proberbly pointless thing

 

you cant really see the toothpick, but the toothpick goes in near the roots, then i put the dripper bottle on the pick.... i can tell how many drops its doing by the bubbles that rise when a drop is released - I am El cheapo

 

 

 

I had heaps of dropper bottles from when i was making cosmetics, only problem is they would only "drip" when sqeezed, so i widened the hole a little and put a tooth pick in to allow drips without having to touch it ... sort of the same, but a proper set would provide more control, mines just a temp thing.

 

 

On another note, despite my epic fail, out of all my unfeminized seeds, i didnt get one male.... maby that plant hormone i was on about (i think on these forums) has helped?  But its used with natural hormone replacement therapy for transexuals, and menopausal women, or makes ur boobies bigger, not that i need them with my new....ahemmm..... additions   ...but  i picked it up of ebay for $16 free postage for 100 capsules. soaked the seeds in solution (two i did for 24hours, the others i was impatient and soaked for 7hrs). I plan to do the same thing again with my next lot of seeds, so if they all turn out female then MABY im onto something...or maby coincidence, who knows....

[Ford Fairlane]

 

Ford Fairlane is your timer able to set to turn on, say for 5 minutes, 15 times per day?

 

seems logical to put pebbles at the bottom, im unsure why i didnt think of this before .

Hey Blondie,

I think my timers are in 15min increments, i have run a recirc system no probs though.

 

Not everyone puts pebbles in their pots, it certainly is not necessary, but I believe it acts as a barrier against white fly, and i also noticed no medium came out the holes when i started using the pebbles, although, pebbles come out instead

 

Good idea with the dripper bottles, please tell me they have not had cosmetics in them though.....

[bl0nd3]

Hey Blondie,

I think my timers are in 15min increments, i have run a recirc system no probs though.

 

Not everyone puts pebbles in their pots, it certainly is not necessary, but I believe it acts as a barrier against white fly, and i also noticed no medium came out the holes when i started using the pebbles, although, pebbles come out instead

 

Good idea with the dripper bottles, please tell me they have not had cosmetics in them though.....

HAHAHA ofcourse not, all clean and cosmetics free. I can see after all the dumbass things iv done why you would have to ask though HAHAHA . I have the pebbles coming out the holes aswell, bloody annoying. Have you had any experience growing in the fabric pots? sounds like a decent idea, as you would get decent drainage, no escaping medium, only concern is rotting, but im going to give them a try anyway.... i think it may be beneficial with keeping the heat out over plastic.

 

 

Basically wat he said

 

You can probably continue using the nutes you already have,

 

then stop reading all the hi tech crap on the net..... plant some seeds water em every second day till established root system, then water/feed once a day

 started ur nutes at .8 EC and increase to about 1.2 through veg 3-4 weeks flip take nutes up to about 1.4 max  maybe some pk about week 5-6 of flower and leave the poor bloody things alone to do their thing.

From wat i have read in ur posts and i have read a few of them you seem to be making growing weed seem like mission impossible.

 

nuff said 

 

While you are right, and as i said, iv learnt from my mistakes and im starting again...But already im lost where you have mentioned .8 EC. Iv been trying to work out how these measurments go, as all the measurments seem different between equiptment. 

 

So trying to figure that out....

All ppm pens actually measure the value based on EC and then convert the EC value to display the ppm value, having different conversion factors between differing manufacturers is why we have this problem communicating nutrient measurments between one another.

EC is measured in millisiemens per centimeter (ms/cm) or microsiemens per centimeter (us/cm).

One millisiemen = 1000 microsiemens.

EC and CF (Conductivity Factor) are easily converted between each other.

1 ms/cm = 10 CF

"The communication problem"...

So again, the problem is that different ppm pen manufacturers use different conversion factors to calculate the ppm they display. All ppm (TDS, Total Dissolved Solids) pens actually measure in EC or CF and run a conversion program to display the reading in ppm's.

 

There are three conversion factors which various manufacturers use for displaying ppm's...

USA 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm

European 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm

Australian 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm              

 

so your 0.8 EC would be roughly a 450ppm - 550ppm on my meter?

 

 

 

Another question, its been suggested not to mix nutrient solutions, and to feed them seperatley to the plants in order for them to take advantage of absorbing the nutrient, But in a circulating system, is it ok to put all the nutrients together in your tank?

[spider_b]

HAHAHA ofcourse not, all clean and cosmetics free. I can see after all the dumbass things iv done why you would have to ask though HAHAHA . I have the pebbles coming out the holes aswell, bloody annoying. Have you had any experience growing in the fabric pots? sounds like a decent idea, as you would get decent drainage, no escaping medium, only concern is rotting, but im going to give them a try anyway.... i think it may be beneficial with keeping the heat out over plastic.

 

 

 

While you are right, and as i said, iv learnt from my mistakes and im starting again...But already im lost where you have mentioned .8 EC. Iv been trying to work out how these measurments go, as all the measurments seem different between equiptment. 

 

So trying to figure that out....

All ppm pens actually measure the value based on EC and then convert the EC value to display the ppm value, having different conversion factors between differing manufacturers is why we have this problem communicating nutrient measurments between one another.

EC is measured in millisiemens per centimeter (ms/cm) or microsiemens per centimeter (us/cm).

One millisiemen = 1000 microsiemens.

EC and CF (Conductivity Factor) are easily converted between each other.

1 ms/cm = 10 CF

"The communication problem"...

So again, the problem is that different ppm pen manufacturers use different conversion factors to calculate the ppm they display. All ppm (TDS, Total Dissolved Solids) pens actually measure in EC or CF and run a conversion program to display the reading in ppm's.

 

There are three conversion factors which various manufacturers use for displaying ppm's...

USA 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm

European 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm

Australian 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm              

 

so your 0.8 EC would be roughly a 450ppm - 550ppm on my meter?

 

 

 

Another question, its been suggested not to mix nutrient solutions, and to feed them seperatley to the plants in order for them to take advantage of absorbing the nutrient, But in a circulating system, is it ok to put all the nutrients together in your tank

 

This is exactly the problem with using ppm or tds measurement with EC there is no ambiguity it is a universal measurement. I believe .8 EC would be 400ppm

I am a little confused about how you would use ur nutes seperately ............... 

 

Reading ur thread i see u want to do recirculating nutes and also want to be able to disconnect them and take em outside there ya go making life difficult for yourself.

you would not want to do coco as a recirc system anyway becos the run off back to the res would have no similarity to the what you are pumping out of your res, if you REALLY want to do recirc I suggest 100% perlite, but again if you are gonna go recirc through summer you will probably end up with more grief if you do not have some sort of system to keep ur res cool either bottles of frozen water or a chiller.

 

 

While I recognise ur previous attempts have been a "learning experience" the ultimate goal is to produce some quality weed and really for a newbie coco drain to waste and hand watering is forgiving easy and produces good yields of quality buds.

 

Once you have that mastered you can take it to the next level by doing multi feed drain to waste in your coco which gives outstanding results.

 

I have been growing indoors for 30 years and have done flood and drain in clay balls/aeroponics and RDWC and am now doing multi feed coco which is giving bloody good results

[bl0nd3]

This is exactly the problem with using ppm or tds measurement with EC there is no ambiguity it is a universal measurement. I believe .8 EC would be 400ppm

I am a little confused about how you would use ur nutes seperately ............... 

 

Reading ur thread i see u want to do recirculating nutes and also want to be able to disconnect them and take em outside there ya go making life difficult for yourself.

you would not want to do coco as a recirc system anyway becos the run off back to the res would have no similarity to the what you are pumping out of your res, if you REALLY want to do recirc I suggest 100% perlite, but again if you are gonna go recirc through summer you will probably end up with more grief if you do not have some sort of system to keep ur res cool either bottles of frozen water or a chiller.

 

 

While I recognise ur previous attempts have been a "learning experience" the ultimate goal is to produce some quality weed and really for a newbie coco drain to waste and hand watering is forgiving easy and produces good yields of quality buds.

 

Once you have that mastered you can take it to the next level by doing multi feed drain to waste in your coco which gives outstanding results.

 

I have been growing indoors for 30 years and have done flood and drain in clay balls/aeroponics and RDWC and am now doing multi feed coco which is giving bloody good results

 

I see what you mean by making it difficult with portable pots, but i just assumed putting them in sunlight throughout the day means the plants get all the required lighting, aswell as saving a bit in power costs. Maby summer is simply not a suitable time f9r growing in wa unless you have aircon. I have a normal household fan, an inverterd exhaust fan to provide more cooling, and an exhaust fan to extract heat from the ten but still inside the tent the temp sits at around 39-40 degrees, where as outside its slightly cooler (not much but slightly), so my thoughts were to not only save power but in regards to temperature. Maby next summer a little portable aircon in the garage might be a better option...aswell as not using purely heat holding clay balls

 

With mixing the nutrients together, i think its because im growing in clay balls, yet my nutrients are specific for canna coco, so i thought the plants wouldnt be getting other vital elements such as calmag, silicon, and the other forms of nutrients. Then theirs other additives (Cannazyme, rhitzotonic etc) and the A & B nutrients say not to mix with other nutrients (whether they mean other brands perhaps) but iv been told giving them to large a variety of nutrients at once means they wont absorb it, which is why they sell the nutrients in parts anyway?

 

As my grow is oviously stunted in height,Its still producing very healthy green new growth, so i took stix advice and mixed in as much of the canna coco mix as possible, and watered them to mix the coco through. Hopefully i will now have a bit of a buffer to prevent nutrient burns.

 

When you said the run-off from the canna coco would be totally different, i was under the impression canna coco medium doesnt have much in the way of nutrients within, so how would the runoff be different? or is their trace amounts of nutrients in the canna coco? I was curious as to why most recirculating systems werent using coco/coir as a medium, i just presumed it was due to blockage, but planned to tackle that with the fabric pots...but i see now there is more to it.

[tangwena]

Blonde just read some diaries by long standing members like Hash Nibler, Naycha ect. They keep it simple no bullshit and follow what they do. You can see it works for them, why try your own way?

Once you get it down pat you can try tweeking it your own personal way.

But it isn't that hard.

 

Tangwena

[bl0nd3]

Blonde just read some diaries by long standing members like Hash Nibler, Naycha ect. They keep it simple no bullshit and follow what they do. You can see it works for them, why try your own way?

Once you get it down pat you can try tweeking it your own personal way.

But it isn't that hard.

 

Tangwena

 

Ill check them out now, i remember seeing Naychas, those results are incredible. I think i have to pick a method and stick with it. I seem to be wanting to do a little bit of everyones method (semi flood and flo / semi hempy buckets, semi standard feed and drain) it all looks like fun hahaha.

 

For the time being, iv layed off the nutrients (except for some extra diluted clone feeding solution which is said to help establish roots on clones) i figure after the damage to the root system iv caused, it might do them some good. I did a 50/50 mix of canna coco, and pebbles today, and have swapped the LEDs to CFL. for the nutrients ill just use half strength canna coco A&B. Be interesting to see if they pull through, as theirs only 10cm of roots on them after the butchering .