Light burn from cfl?

[micmac]

Don't know if any advantages in root rot, may have been reading out for a little while as batteries started to get low

Water temp control was why I couldn't get my dfs going

 

 

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[Buds-lightyear]

I understand ppl can and do use tap water regularly with success but I'm sure that tap water damaged the plants maybe just because I didn't lower the pH,... after reading into the effects of chlorine and chloramine on plants and marine life even people(you know we absorb that shit through our skin easily ) I'd rather treat it and not take any chances. I will get an ec meter eventually but I don't have a lot of money and I've prob spent like 500 on stuff already, I know people spend a lot more than that but I just can't right now. I'm planning on setting up a small Hempie grow and seeing how that plays out so should be fine without an ec

[Buds-lightyear]

Root rot stabilised your pH? way to look on the bright side mate.

How you treating it?

Peroxide?

[Ford Fairlane]

Don't know if any advantages in root rot, may have been reading out for a little while as batteries started to get low

Water temp control was why I couldn't get my dfs going

Sent from my iPhone using OZ Stoners

  

 

 

 

I understand ppl can and do use tap water regularly with success but I'm sure that tap water damaged the plants maybe just because I didn't lower the pH,... after reading into the effects of chlorine and chloramine on plants and marine life even people(you know we absorb that shit through our skin easily ) I'd rather treat it and not take any chances. I will get an ec meter eventually but I don't have a lot of money and I've prob spent like 500 on stuff already, I know people spend a lot more than that but I just can't right now. I'm planning on setting up a small Hempie grow and seeing how that plays out so should be fine without an ec

  

Root rot stabilised your pH? way to look on the bright side mate.

How you treating it?

Peroxide?

Hey buds, for sure mate 500 clams is a lot of money for most of us plebs, you gotta do what you gotta do brother. If i had a choice between a pH meter and an ec meter i would go with the pH meter every time. I would prefer to use filtered water but like you I have to choose what equipment I feel is most important for my situation within my budget. Water quality varies throughout Australia, so some would require different treatment to others.

 

Maccas and BL,

I still don't know for sure that I have root rot but I have been getting a bit if brown slime and low pH. When previously, pH has been high and required daily attention... Plant health is still within acceptable limits.

 

I am using Flairform pythoff at 0.2mL/L around every 10 days with a res change.

 

My hydro shop guy has been in his shop since at least 96 when I first met him, so I value his advice, although he openly sells pgr's and thinks they are great, so also should be taken with a grain of salt. And I have not fact checked any of the following information.

 

What his take on pythium and low pH is this: Pyhtium dies in low pH environment the system/plant naturally tries to defend itself against the root rot by lowering the pH. Which of course causes nute lockout right?? Well my guy reckons he has a customer in summer runs his system at pH 4. Now I am not quite ready to accept plants will be healthy using a pH of 4.

 

However, I have to top up my res every day and the high pH tap water combined with the low pH res seems to keep it at around 5.8 after res top up. 24 hours later the pH has swung back down to around 5.3.

[micmac]

2 things I don't think it likes is plenty of oxygen in the water and water at 18 deg c as this is the temp where the most oxygen available

I too have been told that about the nutes I use, doesn't deny the availability of any nutrient no matter what the ph level

I used it last grow n it works great but never was I game enough to go outside the accepted ranges

I don't know if low ph kills it but I do know if u use peroxide it kills the bacteria that naturally attacks rot

Given that a oxygen supplement would hurt , h2o not suppose to kill good bacteria but attacks the rot n adds more oxygen to water

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using OZ Stoners

[Buds-lightyear]

They use peroxide to disinfect in labs its brilliant stuff really. The beauty of it is is that you aren't left with any toxic crap just h20 and o2.

[Buds-lightyear]

That pythoff has a great name. Sounds like an angry bloke with a lisp telling me to go away

[Buds-lightyear]

 

Might be interested in this i stole from a rollitup thread

 

 

Chlorine is the common treatment and preventaive used by the commercial green huouse trade. I have been using it for iver 10 years. Flairform Pythoff is the most widely sold. They sell to different d formulas. One is jsut RO water with chlorine bleach added. The other is RO water with chloramine added. The chloroamine does not outgass as quickly as regular chlorine so it does not have to be added as often.

 

Here is a link to therir site that gives links to its MSDS on their products. http://www.flairform.com/Products/pythoff.htm Look at the 25 g/L link. Regular chlorox bleach is about 7.5% sodium hypochlorite. You need only add enough chlorox to RO water to obtain the % of chlorine provided in Pythoff. Flairforms commercial strength is 2.5% or chlorox diluted to 1/3 strength. Here is the label of their bottle. http://www.flairform.com/downloads/py_commercial_label.gif

 

As can be seen very little is added to the water. It works out to adding 1 ml or 2 ml of the diluted bleach to every 6.6 gallons of water. You can dilute the bleach to waht ever concentration you want that makes its use the easiest. AT 1/3 third strength one teaspoon of chlorox bleach is good for 16.5 to 33 gallons of nutrient water. Typically one starts with 1 teaspoon (diluted) per 16.5 gallons then every two days add 1 teaspoon (diluted) for every 33 gallons to replaced used through oxidation reactions and by outgassed chlorine.

 

 

 

 

 

Hey buds, for sure mate 500 clams is a lot of money for most of us plebs, you gotta do what you gotta do brother. If i had a choice between a pH meter and an ec meter i would go with the pH meter every time. I would prefer to use filtered water but like you I have to choose what equipment I feel is most important for my situation within my budget. Water quality varies throughout Australia, so some would require different treatment to others.

 

Maccas and BL,

I still don't know for sure that I have root rot but I have been getting a bit if brown slime and low pH. When previously, pH has been high and required daily attention... Plant health is still within acceptable limits.

 

I am using Flairform pythoff at 0.2mL/L around every 10 days with a res change.

 

My hydro shop guy has been in his shop since at least 96 when I first met him, so I value his advice, although he openly sells pgr's and thinks they are great, so also should be taken with a grain of salt. And I have not fact checked any of the following information.

 

What his take on pythium and low pH is this: Pyhtium dies in low pH environment the system/plant naturally tries to defend itself against the root rot by lowering the pH. Which of course causes nute lockout right?? Well my guy reckons he has a customer in summer runs his system at pH 4. Now I am not quite ready to accept plants will be healthy using a pH of 4.

 

However, I have to top up my res every day and the high pH tap water combined with the low pH res seems to keep it at around 5.8 after res top up. 24 hours later the pH has swung back down to around 5.3.

[Ford Fairlane]

That pythoff has a great name. Sounds like an angry bloke with a lisp telling me to go away

lmao BL that made me laugh..