New Growth Yellow

[fishburgr]

Hey Guys,

 

I posted this a couple of days ago in another thread of mine but because it was at the bottom I don't think anyone saw it.

New growth on one of my seedlings is yellow and the leaves are curled up a bit. as they get a bit older they turn more green but are still light green. Here are my stats.

 

Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor

Growing Medium: Canna Terra Pro Soil

Growing Style:

Watering/Feeding Frequency: Currently twice in last 10 days

Nutrient Strength (PPM/EC): None added to wahts already in soil

PH Levels: 6.7

Temperature/Humidity Levels: 25c - 32c / 55% - 80%

Air Flow/Fans etc.: 1 standard room fan pointing at plants

Lighting Type (CFL/HPS/MH etc.): 400w HPS

Total Wattage: 400w

Growth Stage: Seedling

Plants Age: 13 Days from breaking the soil. 11 Days in pics but the problem is still the same.

Cannabis Strain: Northern Lights Autoflower feminised.

 

 

A week ago I repotted them into 10L pots and in much better soil, Canna Terra Pro. Seeing this soil made me realise how crummy my original soil was. I know it was too early but they just werent doing anything in the soil I had them in and it wasn't drying up fast enough. So I repotted them and over the last few days they've taken off, theyre now on day 13 from breaking the soil. As theyve got a bit bigger I lowered the lamp a bit again and the temps have been a consistent 30c except for one day where I stuffed up and closed the closet door and it rocketed to 40c for a few hours.

 

So I have 2 different strains, Lowryder and Northern lights both auto's. The lowryders look healthy and the NL is growing fast but all the new leaves on the NL start off yellow before slowly turning green from the outside in.

Both strains have been treated identically, same soil, same amount of water etc. the only difference is the NL are directly below the lamp and the lowryders are to the side so the NL is a couple of inches closer to the lamp.

 

The 2 pics are of both the NL and the lowryder so you can see how yellow it is. From the nutrient deficiency charts Ive been reading it says to spray epsom salts. I just wanted to get you guys opinions as to if this will help or could it cause more problems. Also if its a nute deficiency why would it only affect one of the plants and not all of them as theyve all been treated exactly the same?

 

Thanks again.

 

Fish

[buzzo]

Showing signs of heat stress to me in combination with too much light. How close is the light?

You don't need massive amounts of light when they are young or when in veg for that matter, and the curling of the leaves at such a young age means the plant is trying to find shelter.

 

How does the temp feel on the back of your hand right above the plant?

You say you are using 400 watt lighting. The light should be around 40 cm above the top of the plant, if its a single HPS or MH lamp. Your grow diary says you are using every type of lighting there is..WTF?

 

You have a fan for recirculation but you don't mention how well the room is ventilated?

 

Auto's prefer HPS lighting from day one.

 

Auto's have very fast growing roots and they don't particularly like any type of soil.....Use Coco or Deep Water Culture, or Vermiculite, or Perlite.

If you use Coco make sure you use Coco SPECIFIC nutes and follow the directions on the Bottle.

 

The photo below is from my current grow. The plants are 12 days old (Auto Variety) grown in Coco with Canna Coco nutes in 2.4 litre pots under 250 HPS.

 

Bottom line is I am yet to see an Auto grow in soil that does any good. Not saying it can't happen but .....ooops I think Shroomy has grown Ok in Soil, but even he will tell you that Coco is King.

 

Hope this helps Buddy.

 

 

Shroomy should be along shortly to give you a hand he is the real Auto Guru here.

Edited March 25, 2012 by buzzo

[fishburgr]

Hi thanks for the detailed reply.

I have been using only the 400w HPS since day one. In the grow specs the reason it lists them all is the way it is in the template as the example, I think youve read it wrong unless your referring to something else.

The lamp is probably just under 30cm so im going to go and move it back up a bit as you said. The reason I put it that low was because they were barely growing but started to get a move along once I lowered the light.

 

Are those plants 12 days from seed or germ or what? They look massive compared to mine. Lowryders only average 12 inches at full growth tho, and Im not sure about NL autos.

 

The reason i went for soil was because its my first grow and all the other stuff was just a bit intimidating at the time I decided to start and I was told soil would be more forgiving. When I took those photos they hadnt been watered in about 6 days and just after I watered the leaves perked up but of course the yellow remained.

 

What do you think of the yellow? And what about the other plant? I thought that one looked quite healthy but you don't think so?

 

Im going to go move the light up a bit now. Oh btw are you running lights 24/0?

 

Thanks again.

 

edit - I forgot to mention the room is left open all the time but temps here are pretty hot at the moment so it stays at 30 during the day and 26 at night.

Edited March 25, 2012 by fishburgr

[buzzo]

The photo was 12 days from when they first poked out of the Coco. All the Auto variety's I have grown look much the same, big fat leaves & well developed. I owe it to Coco & Canna Nutes plenty of Airflow.

 

I run 18/6 on the lighting for all my grows now. I have found most varietys tend to wilt when the lighting is more than 18/6. True Auto's like you have there basically start flowering from DAY 1. I beleive this is why the Leaves are so big & fat from an early age, essentially they reach maturity at around the 10 Day mark.

 

If you have HPS then ditch the MH and put in the HPS and reduce the lighting back to 18/6. If the light intensity is too great itt will cause bleaching of the leaves, although in this case I don't think thats the problem. Autos don't like having there roots dry out.

 

I don't have any photos but only around a week ago I dropped in a Maxi GOM Auto and it popped out of the Coco but it was severly stunted and very yellow looking. I though for sure it wasn't going to make it but "Her Indoors" tell me its recoving nicely. I put it down to just a bad seed, cause I have my shit well in a pile these days and have put it down to a bad seed. So don't overeact to much to adjust anything right now.

When plants are stressed the first thing I use to go for is a full 4 ml per litre of Rhizotonic, it's a Seaweed extract that promotes root growth, and greatly helps sick plants recover faster. These days I use Seasol instead and the results seem to be the same or better. Be careful both products will raise the P.H. big time.

 

Q1. What is you water source?, Tap,tank,RO,town.

Q.2 Do you adjust the P.H. of the Water?

Q.3 Do the know the harness of the water? (should be E.C. of 0.2 or less) If the hardness is too high it basically has to much Calcium and will lock out other nutes.

 

Unless you are hell bent on going full organic, I would ditch the Soil and go Coco. Apart from Deep Water culture I am yet to see any other medium out do the Coco. The Coco is magic stuff, can't overwater and it has no nutrient at all so when you water them you know exactly what you are giving them. The only downfall is the Fungus Gnats love the shit more than the plants but thats pretty easy to treat. If you really want to get the most out of your plants then a 50%/50% ratio of Coco & Worm castings is the ticket.

 

I can't speak highly enough of both of these products, and the Worm Castings makes a big difference as you can see in the photo's, my plants are 3 times bigger for the same size as your grow, and I don't have any secret magic tricks, the Coco,Worm Castings and full compliment of Canna Nutes is my only secret. The hard work in experimenting has already been done by Canna.

Edited March 26, 2012 by buzzo

[Cerberus]

I can't speak highly enough of both of these products, and the Worm Castings makes a big difference as you can see in the photo's, my plants are 3 times bigger for the same size as your grow, and I don't have any secret magic tricks, the Coco,Worm Castings and full compliment of Canna Nutes is my only secret. The hard work in experimenting has already been done by Canna.

 

You've convinced me Buzzo

 

Cheers

[buzzo]

You won't be dissapointed Cerberus,

 

Guarentee you won't look back. I don't know of anyone who has gone to Coco and then gone back to anything else.

 

Just make sure you get the Treated Coco, DON'T buy the crap Bunning sell, it's full of salt and it's too coarse.

 

Nutrfield & Canna are the top pick, I'm using another brand again ATM and can't think what it is but the look feel of it is exactly the same and it's treated.

So as long as on the bag is actually says it's treated, buffered and protected with Trichaderma then it will be fine.

 

Shroomy put me onto the Worm Castings, and fark me the results speak volumes, I can definately notice the difference in growth rates, using the Worm Castings.

Worm Castings are also an excellent addition for you soil growers.

[Cerberus]

thanks Buzzo.

 

Someone else put me onto the coco and it's worked great but the worm castings mix is definitely a goer. I suppose being what they are is the reason why they help, but it's good to know which animal creates the best turds though

 

[fishburgr]

Hey theres some great info there thanks AutoKing. I was thinking it may also be the seed because its been doing this yellowing thing since the first set of true leaves i.e they start off yellow and then fill in nice and green. Its just become far more prominent since they started to grow a bit.

When i bought the canna soil I was tossing up whether to get the coco instead but I got a bit scared to be honest of not knowing what to do with it but I think i will use it next time. Theres some coco in this soil along with a heap of other stuff.

Im currently on 20/4 but I will bump it back to 18/6

In answer to your Q's,

1. I'm using tap water thats sat for a day or 2.

2. I havent been adjusting the PH as according to the meter I have here its going in at 6.9 and runoff is 6.7. Im a bit suspicous on the accuracy of this meter tho and that could be a problem. Im going to replace it this weekend.

3. I dont have an EC meter and don't know the soft/hardness of te water. I'm in SE Qld if that helps.

 

I moved the light back a bit like you suggested too, its at about 45cm now. The plant is looking perkier now but still has the yellowing. When I go to the shop I will get some epsom salts and try that for a sulfur def.

 

Thanks

[buzzo]

SEQ water is fine, thats my neck of the woods.

Get a bottle of PH Buffer 7.0 to reguarly test your PH meter. Keep a close eye on the battery's & always keep the meter sitting in water.

 

I use the cheapo $15 PH meters and fine they are fine as long as they are treated properly. never tap them on anything or the glass bulb will break.

Epson salts are a good idea. I'd invest in some Seasol too, it's cheap and a very good product.

 

Don't pay too much attention to the run off. Concentrate on what you are putting in.

 

More I think about it, it could be just bad genetics, there seems to be more and more unstable variety's getting around these days.

By far the best seed stock I have grown is from Home growers, The 10 seeds I originally bought from Demon were crap.

They were Lowlife Fem AK47 auto.

3 didn't flower until the lighting was dropped to 12/12.

4 were Male!

2 more didn't germ.

1 didn't flower until week 5

And I got 1 seed that was was was advertised.

[shroomyshroom]

supppppppppppppppppp

 

sorry I am late for the show guys...

 

Ok first off.... Every single thing Buzzo has stated is %100 correct and can be taken as golden.... Just check out his grow diaries and you will get an understanding of exactly what he is talking about... I reccomended the worm castings to Buzzo to take his grow to the next level, the worm castings provide great trace mins and give the seedlings a massive boost to the imune system which makes them less likely to get stunted or die incase they get stressed... which is a plus

 

coco and worm castings at the ratios Buzzo is using is deff the best way to go when it comes to autos... they just seem to thrive in it... it prob has something to do with how easy the roots can penetrate the medium as apossed to soil mixtures which can be very hard for the your roots to get through..

 

just follw the basics exatly like buzzo and seriosuly you cannot go wrong with autos