Is that a chlorose

[pastet89]

Hello!

Is that a chlorosis and how to fix it? I tried with some FeSO4 but I think there is no effect... (I mean the white and light green leaf). Also, what do you think about the brown leaf? They turned into brown after an extremely hot week period of 26 to 39 C daily temperatures. Is that fatal? The plants stopped growing last 2 weeks. They are white widow dutch passion feminized seeds.

Here are the photos:

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/1.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/2.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/3.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/4.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/5.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/6.JPG

http://livescore-bg.net/bad/7.JPG

 

Thx in advance

[Wrangler556]

The browning is a severe potassium deficiency by the looks of things...

 

The white looks like a sulphur def.

 

I'd say the high temps have caused your plants to soak up and exhaust all the nutrients in your pots.... may be nute burn there, hard to tell.

 

You need to flush those pots with lots and lots of water, then reapply a complete all round nutrient at a weak strength, like 1/4 to 1/2 strength.

[nitram]

Hi pastet89,

 

It certainly looks like a severe case of chlorosis but that is a term used to describe a bunch of symptoms and it is the cause you need to find and correct.

 

Simply put, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white then Nicolette like browning and crisping leading to death of your leaves & plant. The affected plant has little or no ability to manufacture carbohydrates through photosynthesis and may die unless the cause of its chlorophyll insufficiency is treated.

 

We in growing circles simply call your situation "nute lock out". It has a mumber of causes most commonly one of two.

 

1) Over nuteing - too high an EC.

 

2) Out of range with the PH. Optimal PH is 5.8 - 6.6.

 

To correct your situation a decent flush (PH adjusted water) is in order then resume normal feeding at correct EC & PH.

The damaged leaves not recover and the new growth should be unaffected.

Nitty.

[pastet89]

Hi

May I ask you to explain what do these things mean:

What is nuteing?

What is EC?

How can I get or prepare this PH adjusted water and how to be sure that it will give the plant the exact (5.8 to 6.6) PH level I need?

Thx

[nitram]

Hi again pastet89,

 

Ec stands for "Electrical Conductivity" - without going into technical elaboration it is a measure usually taken of your nutrient strength (level) that yo make up to feed your plant.

 

PH is the "Potential Hydrogen" and is a measure of your hydrogen atom ratio.

 

Both measures are obtained using meters - PH meter ands EC meters.

Nitty.

[pastet89]

OK, I really sopose that it is not tne N, but the PH.I have not given to them almost any N last 2 weeks, and lso I know the brown could be that, but I toke a careful look of twom pictures comparing N burnt and a sun burnt, I I really think the problem hereis a sun burnt. But how do you supose to fix this PH?

Thx

[pastet89]

OK my friend, just explain me what is that PH adjusted water and how am I supposed to adjust it and also, is there a way to measure the PH of the soil? Please, help!

[nitram]

Hi again pastet89,

 

OK my friend, just explain me what is that PH adjusted water and how am I supposed to adjust it and also, is there a way to measure the PH of the soil? Please, help

 

There are soil PH testers HERE , however most people opt for controlling PH through setting your inputs to the medium. Inputs are the nutrient solution you mix to fee your plant.

 

You say you have not provided 'N' by way of feeding. Your plants look overly Green - those parts not damaged - so the only other source of 'N' would be your medium.

 

What medium (compost) mix are you using?

 

Have you re-potted up lately ?

 

If it is the medium that is causing the excess nitrogen (which I doubt) As I stated it is unavailability of 'N' or "nutrient lock out" I suspect that is your cause.

 

In either case a flush is what you need to undertake. Flushing won't harm your plant but 'unlock' the flow of nitrogen that is essential for photosynthesis to occur. As stated previously the damage won't repair & the new growth will be ok once the cause is treated.

 

Nitty.

[pastet89]

OK, I bought a standart soil with some nutrients in it from the flower shop when seeding, with a PH of 6,5. Since then i have been feeding them first only with a N-P-K 20-20-20 during about 1,5 - 2 months, then I started to add microelements - Zn, B, Mo and aminocycles, and last 2 weeks I think I flushed them just 2 times with N-P-K and all the other times just with Ca. Then I mentioned the chlorosis and learned, that I need Fe to fix it, so last time, before 2 days I flushed them with a FeSO4, and the guy from the shop told me to flower them now only with FeSO4 during next week.

Yes, I have re-potted tghem, but that was before a month and after the re-potting, they were grate.

 

Generaly, I will take your advice, but not the advice of the guy from the shop and I will flush them now just with water and with nothing else for exmaple 1 or 2 times to see if any effect will occur.

What I can not understand is what are you trying to say - is the Nitrogenium in the soil too much or too less?

And, second, what am I really worried about is that are you sure that the chlorosis is caused by too muych or too less N, but not by too less Fe, and are you sure that now I am not supposed to flush them really just with Fe? I read on a lot of places that the chlorosis is a defiency of Fe, so are you absolutely sure that flushing with pure water now is better than flushing with FeSO4 (despite the FeSO4 nutrient mix include also about 2,4 % Nitrogenium)?

 

I am gonna flush them with a pure water now, but please, think of these things and anwser me.

Thank you very much again for your help.

[nitram]

Hi pastet89,

 

Since then i have been feeding them first only with a N-P-K 20-20-20 during about 1,5 - 2 months, then I started to add microelements - Zn, B, Mo and aminocycles, and last 2 weeks I think I flushed them just 2 times with N-P-K and all the other times just with Ca.

 

If i understand you corectly you have been adding nutrients including micro nutrients in addition to the compost you purchased from day 1. Most if not all composts you buy havere sufficient nutrrients in them to last several weeks or months. You should not be adding nutrients at all to compost untill the plant shows signs of being in need. Micro nutrient such as cal, iron, magnesium ect are used in very small quantities and most composts have these elements in sufficient amounts for you not needing to add any additional amounts.

 

That nutrient you are using with the NPK 20-20-20 is too "hot" (too strong) - especially when you have sufficient amounts already pre-mixed in you compost you when you bought it.

 

"Flush", "flush" don't feed any nutrients & get a canabis specific nutrient - what is the name of the nutrient that has NPK of 20/20/20 - - - suggest seasol as a cheap alternative availiable from local supermarket or garden center. You should be lookig at a nutrient with a NPK areund 9-3-9. That is 1/2 of the current 20-20-20.

 

I don't understand you feeding practice or shedual (how often) but you saisd you have not feed any N for over 2 weks i think.

 

Are you indoors or outdoors ?

Nitty.