Rooting Clones

[son666]

Hi Guys,

 

Just wondering what methods you guys use to root clones. Anyone willing to post an easy method, going from construction of a kit or something to how it's done. Couldn't find much info on it.

 

Thanks

[Guest weekprik]

theres haeps of info on here, Iam short of time but will be back in a few hrs so will anser you,

What i need to know is a/ what system will these grow in?

b/ what medium etc,

c/ what strains,

[Tom]

To take the clones I use a sharp pair of scissors, some like to use a razor or a scalpel, I try to choose a branch that is growing in an inconvenient direction if possible and cut it off below the third or forth node from the end (I count the tip as a node) I then snip the cut end of the clone just below the bottom node on a 45° angle, remove the larger fan leaves, dip it in a rooting hormone and stick it into the growing media, I use perlite/vermiculite, others use medias like rockwool, soil or aero-cloners. If you tip your plants you could use those tips as clones too, just tip further down.

 

http://www.gamers-forums.com/smilies/contrib/ruinkai/coolgleamA.gif

[pipeman]

I have cloned with reasonable success using a cheapo aero style cloner in a plastic storage box. No ventilation just removed the lid a couple times a day to let the air change. Humidity was pretty consistent around 80%.

 

I'm about to give another set of cuttings a go in the new and improved version....new and improved = cloning tub painted black.

[Guest weekprik]

ok im back ,

method one:

 

I get everything together, to do the cloning

1/ unused sterile scalpel,

2/ rockwool cubes prepared priviously,

3/ something like a jar holding water 3/4 full,

4/ clonex tipped out in to the lid,

5/ cloning boz- plastic thing with lid on,

 

To prepare the rockwool, I soak it overnight in Ph adjusted water(5.5ph) with 1 drop of superthrive,

 

ok now have this all on a table, cut the lower lats depending on how many you need.

 

Introduction:

 

 

The idea here is to scarify the stem of your cutting so that there is more area in which the cutting can have the opportunity to grow roots and therefore hopefully increase your rooting success rate. You will need a sharp razor blade and a flat surface to scarify your stem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scarification Procedure:

 

The first thing you do is cut your clone at a 45-degree angle; this will expose both the inner and outer area of the stem. Now lay your cutting on a flat surface. Visualize about an inch from the cut end and place your razor blade at this point.

 

Gently, and with the slightest pressure, push the blade to the end removing a fine outer layer of the stem. Don't be in a hurry - there is no going back. Gently scrape the stem with your blade until you can clearly see the internal tissue layers. You have just successfully scarified your cutting.

 

 

 

 

Cloning:

 

Now it is back to the regular cloning methods. Dip into your cloning gel or powder and place into rock wool, soil, water, peat pellet, or aero cloner. When dipping your stems into your preferred cloning solution, you will want to ensure that you get the very tip (remember the 45-degree angle cut) and the length, which you have scarred. I have used cloning powder for demonstration purposes so you can easily see where I have applied the powder to the cutting.

 

 

 

 

Rooting:

 

This last image shows a successfully rooted clone that has used this simple scarification method. As you can see there are roots that have emerged from the full length of the scarring and not just from the bottom. This will give your newly rooted plant a much better survival and initial growth rate.

 

 

This method is also very useful for hard to clone cuttings and woody cuts which do not take to rooting easily. It is also a good method to practice at all times and in general it greatly increases rooting success and shortens rooting time. Other tips that one can use for those stubborn cuttings are to cut the bottom of your stem into quadrants to expose more surface area. One could also scarify two or three sides of the stem as opposed to the one side illustrated here to really give an advantage to those stubborn cuttings that will just not take. Just remember when scarifying more than one surface it becomes crucial that removing too much material off any one surface will ensure failure.

 

Some plants which generally take around 8 to 10 days to root, once applying this method, it is not uncommon to have roots after 5 or 6 days.

 

One last tip, I like to soak my new cuts in a glass of cool tap water for 15-20 minutes before preparing them to root. The chlorine in the water will kill any bacteria present and the cool oxygen filled water will be absorbed by the plant, giving it lots of reserve strength to push out those roots.

[Guest weekprik]

METHOD 2:

 

 

Materials required:

 

- Fluorescent light

- plastic tub

- liquid rooting hormone

- sharp knife/scalpel

- superthrive

- ph tester and adjuster

 

 

Cloning...

 

Take cuttings from clean, disease-free stock. Cuttings taken from plants that have been deprived of nutrients, especially water, will respond poorly. Cuttings of equal length foliage and color should be selected and must not contain deformities in leaf growth pattern for optimum uniformity of the plants after rooting. Select cuttings from the most vigorously growing portion of the plant; this is where the highest concentration of auxins (growth hormones) are found. Cuttings selected should be green barked and should not contain any of the woodier type bark which indicates age. The finished cutting should be as short as possible 4-5 inches is preferred. Remember, auxins are more concentrated at the growing tip. Three of four small, well-formed leaves should be left intact. The propagation area and all containers should be carefully cleaned to reduce the danger of infection. Fill plastic tub or other suitable container with clean water. It should not contain fertilizer, but it is advisable to adjust the ph to 6.4 (6.2 to 6.6 is acceptable). Also, add superthrive at a ratio of 10 drops per U.S. gallon. Maintain the water at a temperature of 78 degrees (26C).

 

The cuttings taken should be at least 1 inch longer than you are going to use make the cut with a sharp knife and immediately place the entire cutting into the PH adjusted water. While the cutting is under water, cut it to the final length. Make the cut in a single, smooth motion at a 45-degree angle to the stem. If there is an internode at the cut point, make your cut directly below the node. With the cutting still submerged remove any excess leaves. If there are no internodes at the cut, make three or four shallow vertical slits (no deeper than the outer bark) upward from the cut along the stem about 1/2 inch. These cut must be made with the cutting submerged or air will be sucked into the stem causing what as know as an air embolism in which bubbles block the movement of water up the stem. An air embolism can cause death or slow the rooting process by weeks. This is known as the sip of life technique. By making all secondary cuts underwater, you eliminate air bubbles, reduce unnecessary strain on the clone and allow the cutting to stabilize in a fluid environment. After making your second cut and removing any excess leaves under water, remove the cutting and submerge the cut end in a liquid rooting hormone. Make sure at least 1 inch of the cutting is placed in the hormone.

 

 

Reduce cutting stress...

 

By controlling light levels, humidity and temperature, your job is to keep the cutting in a complete state of dormancy. Cuttings with out roots are very sensitive to stress. Every effort should be made to minimize evaporation from the cuttings and avoid extreme light and temperature levels. Keep humidity as close to 100 percent as possible and maintain water and substrate temperatures at between 70 and 84 degrees (21-29C). Cooler water will slow root formation; warmer water will encourage disease. The lower the humidity level, the more water the plant will transpire, causing the cutting to use up stored food for things other than root production. It is important to hold the leaves as dormant as possible and permit the cutting to use more of it's energy on root development.

[Guest weekprik]

or method 3 is what i have used in the past and its worked about 50%,

 

just cut the clone off from the bottom of the plant,

stick it in water straight away, next cut it to the right size underwater,

now pull it out of the water and shake excess water off, dip it in clonex for 10 seconds and stick it into the rockcube or what ever medium u chose,

 

next cut a plastic coke bottle up, ie the top bit only (just enough so the cube fits inside it)

 

make sure you wash it, then just stick it over the clone, make sure you mist the plant a tiny bit each day, but mist the inside of the coke bottle well ( if the water drips off the bottle its too wet) now misting depends on the rock cube, you want this damp but mostly dry. if its too damn the thing will grow leaf not roots,

 

take the bottle off 2 times a day and blow on the plant.

[hydrodude]

HEy Weekprik when u do method 1 do u make a second cut underwater to stop buble going up the stem?? or ahve u never had a prob with this?

 

 

Great reading thanx mate!

[Guest weekprik]

underwater seems to make more of mine live, shit I took a shade leaf off and cloned it , thought it would die as only a leaf? it lived and grew its not much bigger but its growing.

yes air bubbles block the water or nutes.

[happyherb]

all i do is use a razer cut a cutting at a 45 angle at 4-5 node,strip the bottem 2 nodes of leaves .then i place the 2 leafles nodes into a pot of perlite then into a kitty litter tray with an inch of water in it inside a cuboard with a 5 ft cool fluro in it with ventilation from opening door a few times a day.and in about two weeks ther pleanty of roots to be seen comming out the bottem of the pot and even a alittle groth in height of the clone.i,ve been getting 100% sucsess doing cloning this way.happy herb.