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Salvia divinorum


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Usually Salvia is grown indoors because, well, most folks seem to think that it won't survive outside in a cold climate. Well, that's not totally true. This outdoor Salvia will be heading into its 4th season come this spring and as result, has survived 3 winters of -6C.

 

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If you're in a cold place like Melbourne then you can grow outdoors if sheltered under some shrubbery with an east facing position. You want it to face east so it can get morning sun. Just make sure the root stocks are 12 months old (therefore advanced) before they experience their first frost. Their foliage will blacken and die off from the frost but come the warmth of spring and new shoots will emerge from the soil. What you won't get in a cold climate as the photoperiod reduces is much of a flower show.

 

Obviously if you want Salvia all year round and you're not in a subtropical to tropical climate, you will have to grow indoors. They do grow and strike readily under fluro, even on saturated rockwool (which MJ would not) and they will strike without need of NAA/IBA hormones. In addition, there is no need to cut at the nodes and submerge to a striking/cutting media (as one would with MJ), as they will strike readily off the internode (Note adventitious roots on clone resting on my palm). This enables far more cutting material to create more plants.

Strain shown in pics is the 'Hoffman and Wasson'.

 

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Edited by OrbitTime
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Sally will grow almost anywhere if given a chance to adjust dude. My big plant get NO morning light and get no direct light till around 2 in the arvo when it gets filtered light for about 4 hours of an afternoon. Ive always had my plants growning outside right through winter, growth slows a bit for a month or so but ive never seen her totally die back and theres always been a good suply of fresh leaf for the taking.

 

Also thought i would comment, i honestly thought it was common knowledge that sally loves spreading her roots, and any attemt to grow in a pot or comfined space will result in a stunted plant, ive always found that she really dislikes growin in pots, she grows so slowly and is so much more affected by weather conditions and pests.

 

Also personally i cut below the node and do use rooting gel because i prefer to see 5/5 cuttings root and take than 4/5 and not that i have had much trouble with making the root but ive found the time it takes is reduced by about half when done this way and i see no point just taking a random cutt and hoping theyll grow, i always like to give her as much a chance as i can.

 

Peace

JAS

 

P.S. Any chance youd like to swap some spore prints? I got P.C Mexicana, got some huge fruits last grow. I wanna grow oysters!

 

EDIT`It is Great to see you in here OrbitTime, and welcome, it looks like you will definately be bringing some interesting things. Your garden definately looks tasty to me :)

Edited by JustAskSally
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JustAskSally, sure, I have some Equador prints available. Though I'm a month off from making some more Golden Teacher prints. My grains are colonising. Winter is a good time to run shrooms as the contam rates are low and it's always easier to heat an incubator and terrarium than struggle with temps of 30C+ which makes for poor fruit results.

 

Australian strain on the cake on the left, Golden Teacher on the right.

 

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Again, Golden Teacher. It's actually my favorite strain as it always fruits abundantly and with an even pin set reliably from multispore inoculations. The Australian strain (which I suspect is more vendor market hype) reminded me of Creeper. Produced large fruits but was not reliable in pinset nor even profile output.

 

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nice one man, ive just bought a new fridge so u know the story with the old one :peace:

 

NICE SUBS MAN!!!!!! :scratchin:

 

How did u fruit them if you dont mind me asking, also did u grow from spore or did u pregnate it with colonised woodchip or similar? i guess your from Vic from you saying about growing sally down that way so temp would be different, i was planning on fruiting them on an on/off cycle in my old fridge to simulate nights, luckily its old fridge not frost free so itll keep humidity reasonably high as well.. Was thinking after a saturation 8hr night at 6-8C might initiate fruiting?

 

I dunno man any tips would be great i obviously dun have near the experience you do...!!

 

i have never grown the teachers before, probably should have started there as the name suggests..

 

Anyways man if you would be kind enough i would love a print from the teachers and even a sub if you wouldnt mind? I was going to grab some woodchip this year to start my own colony of the aussi subs but ive been soo stoned and rugged up all winter ive barely left my house and unfortunately only been up the mountains once this season specifically hunting those L.deliciosus blood mushrooms i gobble down like a joke..

 

Ill happily send you one of my prints, they proved to be quite tasty and easy mushies to keep going, i think ive still got 2-3prints in my safe deposit box, and one hell of a jar of honey lol ..:whistle:.

 

Peace

JAS

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JustAskSally, I wish I was able to say I could grow wood lovers like Psilocybe subaeruginosa (as they're known in Victoria) though thought to be the same species or even a subspecies (the academics argue on that) to Psilocybe eucalypta - the latter I did from the Brindabella mountains back in the late 80's. Strong indeed.

 

My bad, the confusion on the 'Australian' is merely another P.cubensis strain and I suspect named by the American vendors to sound "exotic". It grew much like the Creeper strain; big fruits but few, with erratic pin sets and aborts were frequent - nothing to write home about. The closest I could get to a sub would be a trip to the Brindies for a a P.eucalypta, since they're really the same thing. But it would need agar to get an isolate as wild prints come as a mixed bag.

 

I'll keep you up to date on the Golden Teacher. The only fault it has is it's tenacious, meaning it has an iron grip on the casing when picked. So dribble some water around the shrooms, leave an hour to soften the case, and then pick. Such an easy and yielding strain.

 

Btw, I've never tried the honey method though I've heard people speak of it. Is it better than storing dessicated and ground to dust, capsules?

 

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Edited by OrbitTime
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Storing long term in honey has worked well for me, although i wouldnt really say its any better than storing the way you do.

 

I do also dry them first because if you put fresh ones in honey the moisture disperses evenly through it leaving you with a more syrup/liquid that can either go bad or ferment if left long term, although if your planning on eating them soonish putting em in fresh can be a good thing because your honey ends up becoming trippy honey as its basically now a shroom juice honey and tastes nice on toast for breaky :whistle:

 

Benefits are its easier, tastes nice and stores long term, you can still chop them up so u cant tell what they are if thats why you capsulize em and your not likely to loose a big jar thats in the fridge that you might a few caps..

 

I guess it comes down to preference, but honestly ive got a friend thats had the same jar for over 2 years and it looks the same as the day they were put in, also if you choose not to chop them up you can still marvel over the fruits of your labor.... literally.:scratchin:

 

 

 

Ive been meaning to start my own colony of subs for a while now ay, i reakon impregnating some wood chip either wrapped in a hessian bag or in a cardboard box would work.. I once fully colonised two cardboard sheets with mycelium by just impregnating with the left over stubs and woodchip/bark attached to a couple of the bigger fruits i bought home, basically just as a test but it worked well with the initial colonisation, was easy as pie too i honestly didnt take much care with them, just gotta get the fruiting conditions right for her after that i guess..

 

Ive got my regular stomping grounds less than a hr drive from my place just gotta get to it ay, would you be interested in some colonised cardboard by chance? Also i was thinking of ordering some spore plugs for oyster and/or shittake sometime soon if ur interested might go 1/2's or sumptin..

 

anyways let me know ive got a print here for you of the MEXI P.cubensis, i found they grew alot like what your describing with the 'aussie' cubes much larger fruits than the texi's ive grown but no where near the number, more random pins with heaps aborting.

 

Thanks man im really looking forward to meeting the teachers ay.

 

Peace

JAS

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JustAskSally, I have just mid-week taken some Golden Teacher prints. I only just posted a thread in the mushroom forum. I also have Equador prints. I'm interested in some oyster and shiitake genetics if you've got 'em!

 

Btw, I make the prints reasonably clean. I pressure cook all foil, glasses, scissors and tweezers and soap up the hands. But as you know, the only true way to get 100% sterility is by agar plates and isolates under a HEPA or in a glove box. Though I think that's unnecessary as I don't go to such extremes to grow shrooms. I think the trick in colonising grains jars is only ever shake them once if they're liquid mycelium inoculated. If spore inoculated I never shake the jars. Excessive shaking leads to bacterial contamination losses, despite the fact that shaking can speed up colonisation. But I'd rather wait and have better odds.

 

sgt pepper, I won't be able to strike Salvia cuttings until late summer. I grow that outdoors so it's purly seasonal. It's still completely dormant at this time and new growth shoots will not prevail until after the final frosts have ended.

 

Edited this post to conform to the posting rules. Meaning, you can't openly trade genetics on the forums, unless they're legal.

https://cannabis.community.forums.ozstoners...?showtopic=7559

Edited by OrbitTime
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