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nutrient strength


Guest weekprik

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Guest weekprik

I was told by different people different things in regard to strength,

i have been told 1200ppm is good,

also

Dutch Master is a good nutrient. Opinion is Powergro is a better yielder.

Potash is stored in the plant to increase weight overall.

Max may have vitamins and all the fancy metabolites that Dutch master pioneered.

Yes similar to Superthrive and Nutriboost. I prefer Nutriboost for the 1-NAA that swells plant tissues.

Snake tank is fine for plants. Metal adds zinc, iron, copper etc, so keep it out of the nutrients.

Temp of 25 degrees is ideal

 

A flowering plant will take 8 weeks to finish avg.

If you take cuttings at 2 weeks into flowering, they take 2 weeks to root.

You can then put them into the system or delay them under fluros

Main system, they'll be short and far from the light, but okay.

UNder fluros (use ACTIVA172 from Sylvania 98% colour rendition) they'll grow really slowly until the system is finished. 4 weeks is maximum under fluros unless some sunlight available. Plants may stretch a little.

 

Plants in system seem to be fine. THe tall ones may block to light so bend them back and maybe tilt the light so you get it shining down and sideways,

putting the tall plants beside the light, and the shorties under the light. Just ideas. if reflectivity is high, the plants should be fine.

shorter plants may stretch a little but thats okay.

You can control the stretching with Bonza bud height regulator.

 

If you mean producing a carpeting effect with a netting just screww it into the cupboard or get an aluminium frame made off me ($5 per meter and $2.50 per corner)

Use Dipel on the catapillars. Its a bacteria that only affects grubs, and it makes them get a stomach ache so they can't eat. They starve to death.

The bacteria stays there. Totally ineffective on any other pest or human

 

Plant nutrient strength is about osmotic pressure, not the actual amount plants eat.

The water usage is greater than nutrient salts so nutrient strength should rise overall.

If adding water still gives a higher reading then some salts have built up in the system/media and you should flush the system with water until the water ppm is close to whatever water is normally in your area.

 

Nutrient strength is as high as you can go without burning the tips or getting leaf turns for best yield. For fastest growth, use half that.

Use more if high airflow, less if high humidity, go stronger if too tall, weaker if too short and so on...

 

So I start with a CF of 10, go to 20-24 for grow and 24-28 for flowering.

in ppm check your calibration solution for comparison. If dividing the ppm on the calibration with the CF of the calibration gives you 65, (or whatever) multiply my CF's by 65 (or whatever)

 

Smell issues, Ozone is best, blocks are just as effective as Glenn 20 Spray etc from supermarkets.

Try misdirection, stop neighbours sniffing the air by using Dynamic lifter in the gardens around the house to spread an organic smell.

Beenleigh - drive south on M1 to Nerang Broadbeach exit. Go towards coast/broadbeach. Turn Right into Lawrence Drive at first traffic lights (Campbells cash and carry) and then look for us on the left at number 39 - Shop 17. Our sign says Hydroponics - Gold Coast Garden Supplies. We are opposite Simply Hydro so you can get twice the Hydro in one street.

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