keepleft

they work great. inside temperature of my grow room matches outside temp which is amazing. i have 4 in a square. with an 8 inch centri extracting via a Y reducer to 6 inch and i also have 2 x zheil 6 inch pushing air via an 8 x 6 inch Y reducer. works a treat. nearly 4 months now and no cracks or any other damage. can keep the 1000's 30cm from plant tops.

have switched back to normal ph down and the swing is back to normal. luke duralite is for vegetable crops yeah. but the guy reckons he tries to replicate canna's ratios. whether thats true or not im not sure. but when i mentioned years ago i was using it for pot he didnt seem very happy anyway i have been using that nute for along time with great results but i became caught up in all the marketing and tried the canna aqau. im currently waiting for the grow which i used canna aqua to dry up and if there was any yield difference then ill be convinced its worth switching to the expensive stuff going forward..... (ps i tried both nulife powergro and optimum bloom a few crops back and found the duralite product superior - the plants look very dark green and healthy using duralite. the optimum was ok but the nulife sucked. i was getting some obvious def's). but the buds using the canna look better than anything ive produced before, no nute burn and no def's.... although that could be because i changed my strategy and dropped my EC from 2.4 to 1.6-1.8. will keep you posted on the end results at end of week...

yeah not to worry. couple things to note is that air ciculating over the leaves will increase transpiration ive been told. i actually now have my fans blowing between the lights and top of plants (ie in the canopy) as opposed to directly onto the plant tops. less stress on the plant imo also low humidity increases transpiration. whats your humidity

hey bill whats h/s and the raid?

hi bb, ive tried the rj at wk 4 and the buds end up too small. imo 7 days into 12/12 is preferred

top stuff rockster im in scrog. but big plants. 2 per sq meter. so long veg. but thats not a problem as i have seperate veg room, ie perpetual harvest can you tell me what nutrients and additives you use? also what EC you run in early, mid and late flower. thanks

when you say recirc luke im assuming your referring to recirculating nutrient solution not reusing the slabs. i use slabs with recirulating system (not run to waste). i thought aqua was marketed/designed for medialess (ie dwc and nft style) but it worked well in my setup anyway. one thing about it which i was very impressed with was its ph buffering. alot better than the other nute i was using. i havent tried the substra yet, do you know if it has as good ph bufferring capabilities as the aqua? alot of posts i read on uk420 were complaining about mg def's when using aqua in hard water. some even with soft water. the brochure on the aqua nutes says its designed for medium water. canna in general is expensive. as is advance nutrients. is there any other nutrient you would recommend that is cheaper and as good???? i have always used a no-name commercial nute which is really cheap ($2 per litre) from a hydroponics wholesale called duralite. but it doesnt differentiate between veg and flower. bloke just says use 10% of the nitrogen/calcium part A when flowering. works well but the canna worked better.

your welcome mate. and imo rj shits on superbud. the end product retains its resin and smell with rj, whereas with superbud it seemed to kill the smell and resin content. good luck

everest are you using canna organic acid there? luke - im not sure what the canna organic is, doesnt say on the label. got it very very cheap. but have switched back to good old phosphoric 30%. re the canna aqua i didnt get any mg def's. was expecting it after all i read but happy to say it worked a treat. i have water ec of less than 0.1, so that may have made a difference. but anyway im trying the canna substra this time. cause its $10 cheaper and the guy at the hydro shop reckons theres no benefit to the canna aqua. plus im in slabs not dwc or nft so not really 'aqua' i guess....

a gram per watt. thats great. i thought it was a myth. ive never been able to achieve it. to be honest i strugle to average 0.75 grams per watt. and thats at 1000watts per sq meter can you tell us a bit more about your general setup dr rockster. thanks

cheers ss. ive always done just that - switched to flower nutes when going 12/12. just remember reading somewhere that some stay on veg nutes for first week. not sure why, thought it maybe for the extra nitrogen. thanks

hi mate. yeah its a hell of swing speed i agree. nothing in the system that could be a detriment to the organic ph down. theres cannazym (normal dose) and rhizo (very weak dose of 0.5ml per litre) in it and half stenth silica majic. and some beneficial bacteria (nutrifield tri boost) i know the silica and rhizo are very alkaline. but i adjust the ph down after adding these two additives and before adding anything else. i then add the nutes and if ph needs adjusting, do that again roots are very very nice white and healthy. thanks to the zym anyway once i switched back to the normal ph down the ph swing settled back to normal. takes a few days to get up to 6. so thats why i figured it was the organic acid. mind you i did try the canna aqua and that stuff is the bomb for ph bufferring, keeps it very steady. very expensive nutes though the canna range. do you think there worth the extra $ mate

i used microbial too for a couple of crops and my yield was down. bud size wasnt as fat as normal. no longer use it. same goes for oxyplus when i stopped using both the above products my yield increased i then tried cannazym and yield increased again. but the shits expensive that being said, your plants look great. and if you got 58oz from 4 x 600 watt hps then your doing very well

hi all ive always just used phosphoric acid as a ph down. tried the canna organic acid. yes it adjusts the ph down but it doesnt keep it down nowhere near as well as phosphoric acid. with the standard phosphoric i would adjust the ph down to 5.3 and not touch it for 3 days until it gets to 6.3. with the canna organic acid i adjust it down to 5.0 and the next day its up to 6.3 to 6.6 crap imo

hi all just looking for your opinion as to when to switch from veg to flower nutrients? historically i have switched at the beggining of 12/12. have read that its good to stay on veg formulation for 7 to 14 days. any thoughts? ps as im in scrog, im trying to encouage as much lateral growth as possible in the first 7 days of 12/12 in order to fill out the net as much as possible before applying a PGR at day 7 into 12/12. therefore my thought would be to stay on veg formulation for first 7 days of 12/12 and then switch to bloom at the same time as using the PGR. does this sound logical