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yeah mate I do. I got a Truncheon which is the best IMO. Don't need to turn it on or off, just stick it in the water and the lights come on giving you a reading. Its a big long stick so its handy for mixing up nute solutions too. Does not need calibration (apparently) and reads in both EC and PPM. You can buy meters cheaper, but the truncheon is worth the little extra IMO.


but, you don't need one to grow. They can be a useful tool and can help you optimise your results, but you can grow well in any hydro system without a nute meter.

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Yeah, but your guessing... unless you've got a hydro shop in near shot which will test a sample for ya.


Truncheons rock... I wouldn't go back to being without one. A lot of people grow great buds without em, don't get me wrong, but in a hydroponics setup, they are really important tools to know what's going on in your nutrient solution. (It won't tell you the indiviudal salts, but knowing what the EC of the solution can be information worth a whoooole lotta buds. :rolleyes: )


They rock. lol

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Guest weekprik

Maybe the question should be how doesnt use one?? :rolleyes:


I myself love my truncheon, its the best tool Ive got.


Does not need calibration (apparently) and reads in both EC and PPM.

Have you tried your truncheon in a CF test solution??

how would ya know if its not reading right, like becoming faulty or whatever??


If I had the $ I would buy some cf and test mine, so just curious.


A truncheon is a cheaper version of NZ hydroponics tester thought, they also make other things like maestros etc.




Truncheon CF Meter


The best selling hydroponics CF Meter in the world. Why do growers prefer the Truncheon? It's easy to use, easy to read, extremely accurate and best of all its reliable. The Truncheon will last for years - ask anyone!




- Provided with EC, CF and ppm scales

- Fully waterproof

- Fully guaranteed for three years (with proof of purchase)

- Fully factory calibrated

- Auto turn on and off

- Meter powered by three standard AA batteries

- Battery life minimum of one year (or shelf life of battery)

- No external switches or adjustment knobs






Commercial Truncheon CF Meter


The higher scale model of the Truncheon. Easy to use, easy to read, extremely accurate and best of all its reliable.




- Range from 4 to 60 CF (0.4 to 6.0 EC)

- 100% Waterproof

- Reads in EC,CF & PPM

- Fully temperature compensated

- Easy to calibrate

- Auto turn on & turn off

- Easy to read flashing analogue display

- Full three year Guarantee (with proof of purchase)


Grow*Safe Pro Nutrient Meter


No-nonsense technology designed for the serious grower who needs the pinpoint accuracy of a digital readout.




- Displays nutrient and temperature

- User selectable nutrient and temperature units

- Long battery life with three AAA cells

- Auto turn off

- Low battery indicator

Edited by weekprik
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Truncheons don't need calibration over normal use, although it is recommended periodically, (annually) to check if it's responding correctly...


And bongonaussie, I'm sooooo sorry man, I know I said I'd get you a copy of that, and I've got the photocopies here... just pm me man...


Anyway, the truncheon is cheaper, yes, but the commercial one is hardly something most of us would need. And it's a sight more expensive too... You can get great service at NZ hydroponics, and they always replied to my queries promptly. :rolleyes:


Truncheons rock, although any hydro system grower should give very serious consideration to buying an e.c. meter of one sort or another, full stop, I think I speak for a lot of growers when I say the truncheon has proven its worthiness. lol

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Guest weekprik

Nutrient Strength is CF or EC and depends on many things


More air flow= more strength or you get stretching


More humidity= less strength because the transpiration rate is slower (For Transpiration read evaporation from leaves)


More temperature=less strength as the nutrients are not used at same rate as water in solution and nutrients will rise in strength causing over fertilisation / tip burn


Plants using more water because it is hotter or the humidity is drier and the nutrients are left behind affect the rate of mineral salt build up in media. Perlite or Rockwool or anything that can hold onto nutrients might have a nutrient salt build-up. If we flush it clean regularly then use normal to slightly weaker (CF=-2; EC=-0.2) or maybe use -6CF to -8CF and not flush. Depends on the level or build up. Are you a good grower and can tell or not? Symptoms often sluggish growth and leaf shape curled (Note: beginners should know these are symptoms of many things, and you need to have eliminated a lot of these other things first) If you can see this happening before tip burn gives it away then you know the flushing or reduction in nutrient strength is needed.


So where do I start. In free flowing NFT, Clay type systems where build up is low, Seedlings at 8-10CF (0.8 to 1.0EC) and grow at 18-24 CF. Stay there until flowering aggressively developing plants will take up to 24CF to 28 CF. The stronger you go the better flowering, sturdier stems and branches, heavier fruiting plants should be. Drawback is the weaker you go the faster the plants grow, the longer the distance between branches/nodes, the leafier, taller the plants will be. Flush (0CF to 8CF) plants for 2 days before harvest to remove excess fertiliser for taste. High CF grown plants could add a day of flushing. If flushing causes CF to rise then dump tank and restart. E.g. you flush with tap water at 2CF, come back in 5 hours and its 8CF, next 24 hours still 8-10CF. The flushing is no longer working. Use plain water again at 2CF, and it rises to 8CF again in a few hours. Best to flush and dump, flush and dump. (If you can do that every week or two see your crop go CRAZY!!!! Highly recommended. Better effect than superthrive or Nutriboost!


As for new plants, I often run no nutrients or up to 8Cf while introducing them - but sometimes I just don't worry too much, and give them a flush with water so their pot/root area gets a low dose of nutrient solutions.

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The idea with the truncheon or any nute meter is you use it to guage your nute strength for your conditions. As weekprik pointed out, strain, medium, watering system and growing environment can all affect what nute levels your plants can handle.


If you're already growing hydro I'd suggest you mix up the nutes as you always do and record the reading with the truncheon. Then you can start to make adjustments and take note of the results. With the truncheon as your guide, you will soon zero in on what your plants respond to best. Its also good for monitering how much nutes your plants are sucking up. Measure your nute mix and runoff and you'll soon see if your plants are happily sucking up the nutes or have nute lockout indicating a problem. Also good for flushing, You will find on first flush the runoff will actually be a higher EC than your water. Keep flushing until its the same then you know you've done it enough.

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Hey thanks Fellas, You have been very helpful.


As it turns out, I just sliped around to the local Hydro shop and saw a couple of different types of meters in there. I just grabed the first one I saw, which was a `Saltesta' digital conductivity meter by Accent Hydroponics. It measures in CF. Are these things OK. I think I also saw a Truncheon meter (or something), but didn't know which one to get.


Quick run down on my system. 5 plants, Expanded clay (`coz it was the first thing I picked up), Dutch Fest nutes, Flood and drain every 3 hours for 25 mins, 400W HPS with SonT-Agro lamp at 18-6. I keep the PH at about 5.2 - 5.8 with a digital PH meter.


The CF meter just read 22 in my nut solution. Going on what I'm told, I could bump that up to about 24 - 28. It's pretty fucking hot in my room. I will have to do something about the temp soon. It's also getting stinky !!! I bought one of thoes Ironizors, which took the edge off a bit.

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