itchybromusic

as the saying go's yella , teach a man to grow & he'll make his own strawberry gummies for a life time while teaching some else to be self sufficient

it does look like it otis

sorry , slight error in my post , my apologies " imho it be better to have more browns & less greens , more like 2 part browns to 1 part greens ( as a rule of thumb ) this will help make sure the pile stays anaerobic " this should say " Help make sure the pile stays " aerobic " ( with air ) " not " anaerobic " ( without air ) oops , sorry again

imho it be better to have more browns & less greens , more like 2 part browns to 1 part greens ( as a rule of thumb ) this will help make sure the pile stays anaerobic , of cause many other steps in the good compost making process to consider i think we get a little caught up in the need for nitrogen , first off the air we breathe ( our environment ) is already around 80% nitrogen , 20% oxygen secondly , lots of nitrogen will give you rapid growth but the downside to that rapid growth is thinner cell walls making the plant more susceptible to pest attack , thinner cell walls make it easy for bugs to chew through anyway the most important link in the chain is the microorganisms that breakdown organic matter into a plant available form you can put as much manure / grass clippings / straw / wood chips as you like but unless soil organisms eat it the plant will never be able to consume it

i'm all for having IPM (integrated pest management) & acting in a prophylaxis way b4 u c problems however i would also be very careful to double & triple check products you use for their chemical constituent safety considering your using these products around an item you plan on consuming or making a concentrate of & consuming you also need to consider how the 2 spotted mites might be entering your grow space because i think 90% of the time the mites enter via the grower , either on them or on the dog they let in the space or something they bring into the space like potting media ( do you own a microscope to look close at things like potting media b4 use & leaves on plants ) check the tent = do you have intake fans , if you do consider adding a filter on your intake , just like a filter on your exhaust fan if the tent is in the back shed & you have to walk through the garden to get to the tent , is it possible to change tent locations basically do a risk assessment of your space & practises , i know that sounds a bit full on but when you go through weeks of veg & more weeks to flower , pay for all that electricity & have to lose most if not all to damage , decreased yields & mould it can be sole destroying lastly making sure you keep your tent environment in check , once your grow space temps increase over 25c bugs start multiplying rapidly , higher the temps ( lower the humidity ) the higher bug numbers you'll start to see faster anyway best of luck mate hope you win the fight

i've used both californicus & persimilis they are best used the moment you see signs of 2 spotted mite , very hard to get rid of a full infestation you need to look into your environment because different predatory mites do better in different environments so setting up before releasing will give you the best chance of success or choosing the best predator for the environment you have The optimal conditions for Persimilis establishment is between 15-25°C, and a relative humidity above 60%. In hot dry conditions, the predatory mites Typhlodromus occidentalis or Neoseiulus californicus may be better suited to controlling spider mites. Persimilis is almost entirely dependent on spider mites as food. Neoseiulus californicus perform best at 40-80% relative humidity and at temperatures of 16-32°C. Californicus outperform Persimilis under hot, dry conditions and in crops where temperature and or humidity change dramatically. they are not a magic bullet , even if you setup perfect conditions for the predators to do there thing , success is not guaranteed good luck mate

you got a little while to go i've never grown auto's but it shouldn't be that different to regulars probably a little longer than 2 weeks at a guess hang in there , it's worth the wait good luck

if it is root rot it's hard to recover from but not impossible being that your currently into the last half of the plants life cycle = flowering any repotting will mostly provide negative results , mainly because she is already hindered from her potential , repotting during flower will only be a further hindrance to that potential root rot is a pathogen & is caused by over watering which your other plants in the back ground look to have that droopy leaf look like they are getting the same treatment because its a soil borne pathogen you could make a compost extract to try & out compete the pathogen with beneficial microbes but like a yellowing leaf on a plant , it will never go back to being green , same as a damaged root system it will never recover , the plant can grow new roots though but once again your already in the last half of the plants life cycle , not enough time to really do much , some of us will cut our losses & save on fertilizer , time & effort & cull her Phytophthora root and stem rot is a soil-borne fungal disease caused by Phytophthora sojae. This pathogen causes seed rots, pre- and post emergence damping off of seedlings and stem rot of plants at various growth stages. Disease development is favored by soil temperatures above 60f and high soil moisture.

you need to really look at the plant , go through all branches looking for any bug or bug holes checking branches haven't broken away from the main trunk just to be sure its not an above ground problem but i suspect you have issues under the soil surface at the root system , might have to do some digging around got anymore pic's & do you have a microscope / jewellers loupe to look at things close up

no worries pug there is a couple of new webinar's on that youtube channel if your prepared to sit through around 2 hrs each & a little bit of soil food web school course advertising the vids are labelled Finding the Beneficial Microbes in your Location https://youtu.be/WYXvv2XugMc Multiplying the Beneficial Microbes https://youtu.be/cvd4cHsrqrM

if you guys haven't seen this video from the soil food web youtube channel What Is The Soil Food Web https://youtu.be/uAMniWJm2vo

you blokes have got it covered just a note on compost worms , a variety of worms is a good thing in a pot but most that are sold for worm bins like to hang round the top of the bin which is good cause if you have one of those newer styled bins , the upside down pyramid shaped ones , while the worms hang round the top feeding the castings are collected at the bottom without a bunch of worms to go with it using those compost worms in a pot , you just need to keep that in mind , they want to hang round the soil surface so moisture becomes important to keep them in place another thing don't be shy to play with sprouted seeds ( sprouted seed teas ) , whether your using malted seeds like barley / rye or seeds you sprout yourself like corn / hemp most seeds you could play with like those biodynamic plant seeds but be a little bit careful of some seed like linseed or flax as it's also known in different places this seed when it begins to sprout creates a gel like substance around the seed which is anti microbial , not something you want when trying to promote microbes you can still use it just don't sprout it , put it in a coffee grinder as it comes & grind them up to use as a top dress , i think they help feed fungal communities lucerne , aka alfalfa seed is also a good one to sprout , with it's high concentrations of triacontanol a powerful growth stimulant ( PGR ) , plants love it just don't treat it like other seeds like barley , corn , because triacontanol is as it says above , powerful , & at it's highest concentrations at seed sprout use to much & you will F a plant up very quickly , yes i have done this but you only make the mistake once when you see the damage it can cause don't be scared cause the benefits are great when you get it right , if you use 2 oz's of malted barley or sprouted corn you want to use about a quarter ( half oz ) of alfalfa seed you can also make a tea from alfalfa meal which is not as powerful because concentrations are lower in the plant material compared to seed sprouts cheers gents

hey veritas yes in a perfect free to grow world you would definitely get a regular soil test done & amend accordingly but how do you do that when your No Till ? considering we're not free & soil tests aren't exactly the most cheapest , add to that the education needed to understand a soil test you receive makes it imperfect to do what would be possibly best practice , Soooo using larger volumes of soil like small beds or thirty gallon pots , complete with cover crops & worms should see you through a number of grows if moisture is kept consistent , think feed the soil not the plant think of trees in the forest that live for hundreds of years without any soil re amending , it's the biology that feeds & protects plants , they consumes leaf litter on the surface moving it through the soil as they move through i'd add more but i need to go off & take care of a few things so i'll leave it at that for the time being & catch up with you & this thread a little later , let me know what you think cheers mate itchy

i think the debate you mention Lu is more about the chemical extraction of azadirachtin from neem rather than cold press extraction of oil from neem seed itself because azadirachtin comes from neem they both have been tarred with the same brush unfortunately definitely no problem using organic neem oil or the neem seed meal imho