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Wrangler556

Stoners
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Down Under

Cannabis Habits

  • Preferred Intake
    Joint
  • Cannabis Use
    Rec. & Medicinal
  • Favourite Strain
    Blueberry
  • Preferred Heads
    "Hydroponic"

Cannabis Cultivation

  • Fav. Lighting
    1 x 600w MH for Veg, 2 x 600w HPS for flower

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    http://

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  1. Its quite normal for them to grow some mangled leaves for awhile, they grow out of it. Have you repotted? Might need some fresh roots after vegging flowering for however long previously? Repot + light veg nutes + seasol does wonders. Either way, can take anywhere upto 2 months for her to fully recover. Its just about the most stressful thing you can do to a plant, takes a little patience to get bak to veg. Airflow is another, make sure theirs plenty of fresh oxygen for the roots and new growth. Edit: Pictures help
  2. PH isn't so important once flushing, and flushing is more about taste. gets all the excess nutrients stored in the plant and leaves out. You want to give her plain water until most of the large fan leaves are a pale yellow, usually somewhere between 7-14days for a lot of strains. The yellowing can depend on how heavy you have fed the plant up till flushing point, if the leaves are a really really dark green colour, it may not yellow at all, but most do if given plain water for long enough.
  3. Hanging up a whole plant to dry has everything to do with evenly distributing moisture, and drying completely through, and nothing to do with THC content. The more "Stems, and leaves" you leave on a plant, the longer it takes to dry, as moisture still gets carried through the plant matter even after being cut down/dead. The drier/more evenly dried a plant is, the more potent/psychoactive the THC is per bud so to speak( as it only becomes mind bending high/stoned through the drying process) If you dry a bud faster, it degrades and loses potency through chemical processes, as your just speeding up the process it goes through naturally. Overall, were proabably talking a very small difference, its just that some seasoned growers have decided it works better to dry them as slow a possible. Some growers out there are completely happy with applying heat and air to dry ther buds totally within 1-2 days(fast dry), and they are happy with the result. its all about your preference. Personally, ive tried both/numerous methods, and my rule of thumb is, the slower the better, but that has more to do with taste and smell, as over time, the cholorophyll and other chemicals break down which is what gives it a nasty taste, but the potency/ actual stone remains pretty much the same- Unless you go throw it in a microwave or oven or something, that destroys trichomes-- which is what contains the THC. Wrangler.
  4. I see a quite a few non members / unknown people reading this thread all the time. Just thought i'd throw my opinion of Kronic in. Bought a 1/4 of Kronic Skunk blend about 2 months ago just for shits and giggles. Does it get you high? Hmmm...... well,..... it did something, can I call it a high, im not sure. It did give me a light/relaxed sort of high feeling, but nowhere in the vicinity that cannabis does. I guess i could say it was kinda pleasant, but nothing to write home about. I'd say if you have no access to real bud, perhaps give it a go and see for yourself, better than nothing I guess, sort of? But I do feel funny about "synthetic" stuff, so I don't feel comfortable smoking it. As far as taste and smell, it smells like incense(which is what they market it as) and it is quite smooth surprisingly. Its not bad, but not special. Of course, it could affect various individuals differently, but it didn't do too much for me....... A warning to all though, various countries have banned it, due to circumstances of some people suffering elevated heart rates and causing heart attacks/death and other adverse side effects, so users beware, and if you do decide to try some, try a very small amount to start off with! Wrangler.
  5. I think Augustus is on the right track with advice..... but.... I personally think it not a case of "My growroom conditions are alright most of the day, so they'll be fine" - no offense mate... Its the fluctuations that hurt plants growth. To grow decent plants you need to try and keep your values constant, and as close as possible both through the day and night cycle. Particularly in cold places like melbourne in Winter. Unless you have tons of cash to spend on all the timers and automated controllers to look after the values, its up to you to observe, adjust, and continually keep them in the "Ideal range" Unfortunately, there aint a simple answer for everyone, everyones grow room conditions are different, the area you live in, the weather outside, the type of house you have, level of insulation, size of room, strength of ventilation, other heat sources within the growroom(such as ballasts etc) type and number of lighting, all change what it takes for you to achieve maximum results. It can be hard to figure out how to get it dialled in, its a learn as you go process............... then in 6months / summer, everything you need to do to keep the same values will change..... there is no "If I follow how someone else has is set up, it will work for me" Unless you happen to live in the exact same location and have everything pretty much identical, even down to the type of house etc like I mentioned. As for your stunted plants Hotrod, I'd say its a classic example of what I just mentioned. Reading through your grow diary, you've had heat problems, changing light cycles, possibly poor ventilation, and "Propergation mix" doesn't contain a lot of beneficial properties past the first couple of weeks, and yellowing/stunted growth could either be overwatered(I couldn't see how often you were watering them), or underfertilised which can easily happen in seedling/propergation mix. Some basics/ideas for maintaining conditions: 1. If it gets above 27-28C during the light cycle - remove/shield other heat sources(ie ballasts) Increase airflow, add cooltubes, add aircon, run lights during the night. 2. If it gets below 18C at night - reduce airflow, add a heater, run lights during the night. 3. Humidity can be a real bitch to control. General laxed rule, don't stress about it too much during Veg, but in flowering, it is quite important, especially during the night cycle, anything above 70% and your asking for mould/fungi problems. Basics that can help - If to low, decrease ventilation, add moisture to grow room, hang up wet towels, lay down bowls/buckets of water, add a humidifier. If to high, increase ventilation, add a de-humidifier. 4. Ventilation- Plants need a contant supply of fresh air, they dont like stagnant locked up spaces. Ideally you need to draw fresh air in from another room in your house, and expell the used air completely out - to the outside of your house prefrably, or into your roof space. The stronger your ventilation/ if its running constantly, the harder it is to control all the above values, so keep that in mind. Ideally you want to control the temp of the incoming air to help, which means heating or cooling the room from which you are drawing it from...... you can also adjust humidity of incoming air with either a humidifier/dehumdifier to make things smoother. Moral of the story= It isn't easy at times to keep things in balance for your plants, and takes a bit of $$$ to get set up properly, as well as experience, and learning how your grow room works. Anyhoo, i'm rambling on, just ignore me if you already know all this stuff, just trying to help Wrangler
  6. She can probalby go in that pot hapily for another month easily. Depends really, when do you plan to flower her? If your going to veg for a bit longer, leave it in that pot till about a week before you plan to flower, then repot. Temps are bang on. Watch that yellowing on the leaves,could be a PH problem... the bark and stuff in your pots can be quite acidic, she might grow out of it. Wrangler
  7. As long as you pay the bills... the electricity company just wants to make more money.... they really like paying customers.... the only reason people would look at your electricity bills, is if ya had stuffed up elsewhere with the tips people have mentioned here, and your under investigation/ labeled suspicious by the authorities.
  8. Fantastic AK I grew a couple grows back- In grow diary's under "Wranglers Winter Grow"
  9. I was using a powerboard for 2 600's, 250mm centri, and 2 circulating fans without any problems.... until I added a 2400w heater to the mix(stupid moment, I have them often).... then it cacked itself. The heater was on through the night and when the ballasts fired up, and nice little puff of smoke came out of the powerboard, luckily I was there when it happened, otherwise would messed up my light cycle. Best bet is to split your grow gear between different powerpoints/ plugs.... don't learn the harsh way Wrangler
  10. You may have won the battle norm, but you haven't won the War yet Once they are around, they like to stick around. They'll be back, and quite often with a vengence... each female can lay upwards of 200 eggs
  11. Checking the runoff in coco doesn't give you a good idea of whats going on sometimes.... in coco the PH usually comes out higher than what goes in. Something about buffers and crap My nute mix in coco at the moment goes in at 5.8, and comes out at 7.0... but they are healthy as. Wrangler
  12. It really just looks like simple overwatering to me.... droopy, yellowing of leaves like that on the bottom.... classic sign of overwatering. When plants are that small, depending on various grow conditions, they can go awhile and not use much. I've grown in Coco a bit, both pure coco and mixed with perlite, and at the size your plants are, mine could often go a good 4-6days without a drink and be happy & healthy. Best way to tell when to water coco. Water it... pick up the pot and feel how heavy it is....then keep picking it up daily, and when it feels light = water it again.
  13. Heya mate! I have found these rolling door seals to be quite effective! simpy screw to the inside of the door, doesn't restrict movement..... available at bunnings. Wrangler
  14. Inline fans don't cope to well with filters, best bet is a 150mm centrifugal fan
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