Help with ventilation and ozone generator

[aussie1]

Mornin' all

I have been asking around and even my local hydro shop,

Hydrocentre haven't come back to me with an answer and

Scott and Natasha are pretty good when it comes to advice,

so I guess I have stumped them. If you have an ozone gen

and you know first hand I would really appreciate your help.

I am having problems with positive pressure in my room due

to a carbon filter on the end of my centrifugal exhaust. I am

thinking of going with an ozone generator, but from everything

I have heard you must run it, say for example, 15 mins on, 45 off.

I need to continually exhaust due to the heat problems we

have up in sunny Qld. If I have an ozone gen on for say 15 mins

and the exhaust is going all of the time, won't it suck out the ozone

in a few short minutes so there will be none left in the room and

therefore the exhausted air start smelling? Putting the ozone in

the exhaust and leaving it on all of the time won't achieve anything

as the smell of ozone will only make things obvious. Can anyone

help please?

All thoughts appreciaited.

[jackfrost]

do not put ozone gene in room - put it in exhaust ducting right at the very start of it (near carbon filter) you will need at least 10m of ducting so ozone can mix - before exiting duct.

 

The gene you want is the inline type with a veritable output to suit your needs- leave that sucker on 24/7, the silver bullet type of ozone gene are shit and are only toys.

 

Jack

[Pure]

scott and tasha try and turn everyone over to ozone , from what I have heard and seen , I know they tried to get me to switch ( wasn;t gonna happen )

 

it may just be early on a saturday but it's my impression pressure problems can generally be fixed buy ballancing your fans out ,

 

what intake are you usign ?

 

You also shouldn't run your carbon fiter like that that is probably your main issue from where I am standing , you should have the fan DIRECTLY connected to the carbon filter which should be hung in the grow room, then the ducting dumps the air , you CAN use a carbon filter in the way your wantign but you need to ballance out the fan power with ducting space ( in other words you get a smaller fan or more distance for it to travel )

 

 

once you fix your filter the right way and ballance your pressure problem will disapeer

[jackfrost]

With the correct amount of ozone there will be no smell at all exiting the duct - thats why you need a variable gene so you can control the amount of ozone being made.

 

To much and you will smell ozone and not enough and you will smell buds.- generally you will have to increase the amount of ozone as the flore peroid progress.

 

This system works very well - even for large ops in the burbs - you can have no smell.

 

 

Jack

[F420]

yea I wouldnt trade my ozone for anything.

 

Read my signature link at the bottom.

 

[aussie1]

Thanks guys for the advice, Jack,I especially like the idea of a variable output on the gene, didn't know you could get them. But if you have the gene in the ducting

which is pretty much out of easy reach how do you adjust the control without

having to get a ladder and dismantle your ducting set up, is it designed with a

control cord that is seperate from the unit?

Pure, I do have the carbon filter directly on the centrifugal fan, however Hydrocentre

sold me a centrifugal fan with a 250mm neck and a carbon filter with a 200mm

neck, so I need reducers to hook it up. I think I got done on the filter, it was the only one they had in stock and she said it was the right one, but I reckon it is

causing all of my positive pressure problems. I have a 300 mm zheile inlet, but I

have had to get a speed control put on it otherwise it just blows the smell through

the cracks under the door. If the speed control had numbers on it I reckon I have it set at 1 to 1.5 as any higher and the smell wreaks through the house and it closes the door when I enter room.( the door opens inwards)

Jack, do you have a brand name for me on the gene?

Thanks to all

[Luke Skywalker]

You could avoid positive pressure by abandoning the active inlet and letting it go passive. Shouldn't make too much difference to your temps, particularly if you're only able to push out a limited amount through your filter anyway.

 

You should be able to get some information from a hydro shop (perhaps not the one you got the filter from) about what the filter is really rated at, and what the fan is pushing.

 

If I'm right, you've got your carbon filter on the outside of the room? If you can fit it on the inside, just before the fan @ the top of the room, then all air exiting the room must pass through the filter first, rather than the fan then the filter.

 

But yeah, if you've got positive pressure, you'll need to reduce/eliminate the intake fan, as it's obviously bringing in more than is going out.

 

Ozone is a harmful material that should only be run if you're absolutely sure that you won't be venting to an area where people are. If you have the carbon filter set up correctly, and there are no air leaks with slight negative pressure in the room, you should be able to look after all the smell produced. An ozone generator will certainly get rid of the smell, but the hassle, potential harm to both yourself and the plants, and the fact that it's another high powered electrical device in a growroom, means that I wouldn't recommend it except for the larger sized grow room with many plants, and excellent ventilation/climate control.

 

Hope that helps, and it's all just my humble opinion.

[aussie1]

Luke, I have the carbon filter mounted as close to the ceiling as possible above the plants then the centrifugal fan ( U310 ) mounted to the neck of filter, then a metre of ducting hooked up to a spigot going out a hole cut into the ceiling. I feel that if I take the inlet off and make it passive the temps will soar because they do when I turn the inlet off. I really don't want to use an ozone because of the health issues, but I am getting to the end of my patience. It looks like the wall of the carbon filter is about 2 inches thick with carbon, I read somewhere that 1 inch is plenty and I think the thickness of it is slowing down the centrifugal to the point of causing these problems.