Mite-Rid

[F420]

Neem doesnt work that way, eg- the insects wont drop dead.

what it does do is piosions the sap, and also make the insects infertile.

 

So thye ones on the plant will give you the finger, but wont be able to root and have babies.

once they die theres no more.

the insect can no longer feed or breed or metamorphose, and can cause no further damage.

 

how Neem works-

 

# Disrupting or inhibiting the development of eggs, larvae, or pupae;

# Blocking the molting of larvae or nymphs;

# Disrupting mating and sexual communication;

# Repelling larvae and adults;

# Deterring females from laying eggs;

# Sterilizing adults;

# Poisoning larvae and adults;

# Deterring feeding;

# Blocking the ability to "swallow" (that is, reducing the motility of the gut);

# Sending metamorphosis awry at various stages; and

# Inhibiting the formation of chitin.

http://www.commonsensecare.com/neeminsect.html

 

Neem also wouldnt have hurt your plants at all mate, if they died it would have been something else causing it.

 

http://www.commonsensecare.com/neem.html

 

Composed only of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, they have no atoms of chlorine, phosphorus, sulfur, or nitrogen (such as are commonly found in synthetic pesticides). Their mode of action is thus also quite different.

 

 

http://www.arjayorchids.com/htm/neemfacts.htm

 

 

[Spurious]

Neem doesnt work that way, eg- the insects wont drop dead.

what it does do is piosions the sap, and also make the insects infertile.

 

 

I was told that from the hydro store owner, and also the info on the product itself. Knowing the breeding cycle of mites to be around 2 weeks, I thought something should be noticeable by then.

 

 

Neem also wouldnt have hurt your plants at all mate, if they died it would have been something else causing it.

 

 

I was also told to use it no more than once every three days, and not to coat the leaves when used. After 2 weeks of frustration, I ignored both of these warnings, and oiled up every surface area I could find, in the smelly shit. The plants probably suffocated for all I know. But fuck, I didn't care at that stage, and ultimately it fucked the mites I guess, by fucking the plants.

 

I got them in the end............. Mmm....mm....mwahahaha...mmm.

 

 

 

:signthis

how Neem works-

 

# Disrupting or inhibiting the development of eggs, larvae, or pupae;

# Blocking the molting of larvae or nymphs;

# Disrupting mating and sexual communication;

# Repelling larvae and adults;

# Deterring females from laying eggs;

# Sterilizing adults;

# Poisoning larvae and adults;

# Deterring feeding;

# Blocking the ability to "swallow" (that is, reducing the motility of the gut);

# Sending metamorphosis awry at various stages; and

# Inhibiting the formation of chitin.

 

 

:sly All the more reason to kill them straight away, without all of this fuss.:wheelchair

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

imo :partyhat:

[F420]

Knowing the breeding cycle of mites to be around 2 weeks, I thought something should be noticeable by then.

I agree, that shouldnt take that long they should have starved to death by then.

 

I like this stuff as its cheap, easy 100% safe to the plant and to people, fish etc.

 

I have used sheep dip, before for fungas gnats(scarid fly).

 

I was told that from the hydro store owner,

Dont listen to shop owners, some of them dont know shit. ::

 

I was also told to use it no more than once every three days, and not to coat the leaves when used. After 2 weeks of frustration, I ignored both of these warnings, and oiled up every surface area I could find, in the smelly shit. The plants probably suffocated for all I know. But fuck, I didn't care at that stage, and ultimately it fucked the mites I guess, by fucking the plants.

 

Yea thats possible, as it is an oil.

 

I always soak mine until they are dripping, but wash it off with ph adjusted water with a few drops of superthrive sorta thing(nutriboost).

 

I do the neem just as the lights go off, and the other about 3 hours later.using a green light torch.

I let the neem wash in to my clayballs, then in to my res.

 

If I do this I dont get any hassels, but I know when I forget as i get all sorts of creatures on the plants.

eg- the gnats, spider mites.

[veg]

I tried neem oil years ago. the amount i put on i think i was trying to drown the mites. the plants suffered alot but survived and so did the mites, ended up throwing the lot.

Next time i used preditor mites and they are excellent, they hunt them down all day and kill more than the spidermite can produce, just got to buy them early before you get a major infestation otherwise you need to buy alot of preditors. I order them from the hydro shop, cost about $60/1000 and are the best non-chem way to kill them. done this heaps of time and never failed.

For fungus gnats, i have had these the last 2 grows but started using Microbial for this grow and not a sign of them, just sprayed the top inch of my clay pellets with it and they don't want to nest there. its great to see a healthy plant again and should get my yields back up.

 

Veg

[F420]

will look out for microbial mate, cheers.

[veg]

hey Ferengi420,

 

thought I would add this. Its the reply from the makers when I asked if it killed scarid fly. I thought it was well written and worked for me, i was at the last 4 weeks of flowering and it got me thru a very bad infestation. With the next grow i sprayed the top from day 1 and none, even though i am in a bad area for them.

 

"Thanks for your enquiry, Following is a maintenance program you may like to adopt to eradicate the Scarid problem.

Please keep in mind Microbial does not specifically target Scarid Fly larvae or for that matter pests themselves, it is a rootzone cleanser and decontaminator only. What happens by using Microbial in a hydroponic or organic situation is that it cleans and decontaminates the media and rootzone the by product of this it would appear is that it knocks out the larvae by killing off the pythuim spores inside the gut of the larvae. If the media is free of decaying organic matter it will not attract the adult Scarid Fly in the first place. By spraying the surface of the media with Microbial at a 1 to 3 ratio it will form a barrier of sorts so that the adult Fly will not want to lay its eggs. The problem of Scarid fly infestations are especially prevalent in Coconut Coir Fibre products, being and organic matter it is very susceptible to Scarid larvae infestations. It is not sterile and certainly can't be considered an inert hydroponic medium. By flushing the total rootzone at a rate of 1ml per litre (this includes the volume of the pot) you will see a gradual decline in Scaid-Fly numbers over a period of time. Following is the recommended treatment that has had success with our own clients.

 

Treatment of scarid fly (fungas gnats) infestations.

Step 1/. Dose tank with 2mls per litre of Microbial, make sure you calculate pot volume into the equation. Totally saturate medium at least weekly. For every litre you replace you should add Microbial at the above rate.

Step 2/. You need to now repair the damage done by the larvae, understand if the rootzone is damaged it's ability to uptake

essential elements, will be severely impeded and the plant will start stripping required elements from the lower shade leaves. Dose tank with a rootzone stimulant like Nutriboost for the next three weeks.

Step 3/. You must also do something about the existing adult fly's. We find that by using the yellow white fly traps and

Mortien House and Garden we can keep there numbers down to almost nothing. Remember this is where the problem starts if you have these in the grow room you will be constantly battling with this pest. If yellowing is occurring you can foliar spray with a high nitrogen and magnesium supplement like Green-Up or the "B" side of a reputable grow nutrient do this at no higher than 7CF. You can also apply this as a tank additive at 5mls per litre (increase C.F level by 5). Foliar feeding has the quickest response though. Plant health should start to improve over a 2 to 3 week period once this has been achieved back dosage rate of Microbial to the prevention rate.

Please keep in mind do not use any beneficial bacteria's as Microbial will take these out too. We will be putting Microbial into an aerosol in the future as a specific Scarid-Fly treatment."

 

hope that helps

Veg

[tassie devil]

I recently discoverd about Neem oil and its multitude of Uses. As a soap for Humans was on sale at a local Nursery, I decided to try it out on a few of my mother plants that had mite for a few monthes, pyrethrum etc wernt really making much difference ,, with the neem soap I just rubbed it in a dish of water till the water went cloudy like milk ,I then put this into a spray mist bottle and sprayed plants 3 / 4 times over the next month most of the mite dissapeard by the 3 week and I havent seen any for months now and I spray at least every 2 weeks now ,Apparently it disrupts breeding and this would prove right if the results I had are any indication by the way the soap only cost $ 3.00 cheap and effective and natural and I havent noticed any bad effects from smoking the plants , although im a bit worried about the extra head Ive suddenly grown ha ha ,