Earthlingv2.0 Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 Hi All, they list multiple different bugs for spider mites:lacewings, tiny mite feeding ladybirds (Stethorus spp.), predatory gall-midges (Feltiella spp.) and a variety of predatory mites (including Phytoseiulus persimilis and Neoseiulus californicus) Anyone had any luck with bugs in hydro and killed the spider mites?What bug/s did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted March 14, 2022 Report Share Posted March 14, 2022 i've used both californicus & persimilis they are best used the moment you see signs of 2 spotted mite , very hard to get rid of a full infestation you need to look into your environment because different predatory mites do better in different environments so setting up before releasing will give you the best chance of success or choosing the best predator for the environment you have The optimal conditions for Persimilis establishment is between 15-25°C, and a relative humidity above 60%. In hot dry conditions, the predatory mites Typhlodromus occidentalis or Neoseiulus californicus may be better suited to controlling spider mites. Persimilis is almost entirely dependent on spider mites as food. Neoseiulus californicus perform best at 40-80% relative humidity and at temperatures of 16-32°C. Californicus outperform Persimilis under hot, dry conditions and in crops where temperature and or humidity change dramatically. they are not a magic bullet , even if you setup perfect conditions for the predators to do there thing , success is not guaranteed good luck mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthlingv2.0 Posted March 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 Cheers cob, I appreciate the feedback on them. Ive been not having much luck as of late with mites. Every grow as of late 2-4 weeks before finish and out they pop. New plan is:Bug Bomb the room at end of each grow.Spray room with vinegar solution 90/10 vinegar to waterUpend 140mm pot clones in miterid solution bucket three times, three days between dunks.Spray at the end of veg, three times, three days apart.Wait two to three weeks and get in predatory bugs. See how it goes... Any gaps you see in the plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchybromusic Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 i'm all for having IPM (integrated pest management) & acting in a prophylaxis way b4 u c problems however i would also be very careful to double & triple check products you use for their chemical constituent safety considering your using these products around an item you plan on consuming or making a concentrate of & consuming you also need to consider how the 2 spotted mites might be entering your grow space because i think 90% of the time the mites enter via the grower , either on them or on the dog they let in the space or something they bring into the space like potting media ( do you own a microscope to look close at things like potting media b4 use & leaves on plants ) check the tent = do you have intake fans , if you do consider adding a filter on your intake , just like a filter on your exhaust fanif the tent is in the back shed & you have to walk through the garden to get to the tent , is it possible to change tent locations basically do a risk assessment of your space & practises , i know that sounds a bit full on but when you go through weeks of veg& more weeks to flower , pay for all that electricity & have to lose most if not all to damage , decreased yields & mould it can be sole destroying lastly making sure you keep your tent environment in check , once your grow space temps increase over 25c bugs start multiplying rapidly , higher the temps ( lower the humidity ) the higher bug numbers you'll start to see faster anyway best of luck mate hope you win the fight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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