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Res size and dark/light temps

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#1
mixnmatch

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Hi there, I am learning how to grow in a 1.5x1.5 tent with a spider farmer SF7000 and also using the CYCO full range. I am setting up a return to res set up for 1x50L pot that I’m
Planning to SCROG and veg for maybe 8weeks or more. Reservoir is 40L. From some stuff I read it said you want at least 8L per plant in res, but I wanted to go a little bigger to help with fluctuations, I’d love to know if this is WAAAAY overkill or not.

Also, I’m planning to run my light period at night time to warm the tent as my intake temps seem to be around 16c at night, and about 23c under the light. Today my dark period during the day would of been around 28 at a guess (I had the light running and just testing some shit out, but still warmer than the light period)

Is this something to really worry about?

Edited by mixnmatch, 11 April 2021 - 11:39 PM.

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#2
merl1n

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Hey Mixnmatch

Firstly, Welcome to O.S.

I grow SCROG in a 3m x 3m space with 2400 watt HPS

In a 1.5 x 1.5 space I doubt very much that you'll be needing anything like 8weeks veg, in fact I'd be STRONGLY recommending you don't veg for 8weeks.

I say this because when you go from 18/6 to 12/12 there is a massive growth splurt. If you fill your space with veg growth in 18/6 the 12/12 splurt will overtake the space and this is not what you want.

What I do is fill my SCROG net by keeping the growth under the netting and spread her out like a starfish with the plant in the middle, once the plant fills under the netting I then turn 12/12, then allow the growth splurt to grow up through the netting. This gives me straight stems upright for the buds to develop on.

 

"From some stuff I read it said you want at least 8L per plant in res"

This ain't quite right as there's a few variables that can have an impact here.

Firstly there's your grow medium, some medium holds more water and is slower draining, in which case it can take longer for the fluid to drain. Similarly pot size can play a role here. Adding 8 ltrs in these situations could result in a flood. I have my resi outside of my growspace, so I can check my fluid levels at anytime, but by doing so I have more tubing, so more fluid in those tubes

As the plant grows in 18/6 the water usage is much less than when in 12/12 the water usage becomes much more, but in saying that if your growing one plant, recirc a 40ltr resi should be ample. Well, it is for me lol  So, as you can see the amount of fluid used by the plant can vary

 

I too run my 'lights on' period at night to try and moderate temps. But something you haven't mentioned is airflow and airflow is VERY important. To grow a plant needs light :tick: , fluid :tick: and CO2.

To get CO2 your plant needs fresh air from outside. Airflow does 3 things, it helps regulate temp, it expels O2 and water vapour waste from the plant/growspace and it replenishes CO2. You want your intake down low, where the air temp is lowest. You want to exhaust vent up high as the hot, used air rises. Preferably you want your intake and exhaust on opposite sides of your growspace so that the air flows through the plant canopy. Now to make sure you don't have pockets of stale, dead air you'll also need an oscillating fan to stir the air within your grow space. Personally I also have an oscillating fan blowing through the canopy. This does 2 things, it moves the air around the plant/buds reducing the likelihood of mould, but it also flexes the stems. Stems are a bit like muscles, the more they flex the stronger they become. You want strong stems to hold up the nice weighty buds that will develop.

 

Speaking of 'weighty buds', I use 3 layers of netting. My first or lowest net is a steel frame with steel netting, this is to train the growth down and out. Then I have 2 trailer nets above that. The first trailer net is to guide the upward growth, the second is to support the buds to stay upright. Without the netting the buds bend and end up facing the ground rather than facing the light.

 

Hope it helps

Merl1n


Edited by merl1n, 12 April 2021 - 04:16 PM.

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#3
mixnmatch

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Hi there merl1n, thanks for the response. In regards to medium, I am running clay balls half way up the pot, then a coco/perlite mix the rest of the way up. I’m still unsure of how long I should be feeding and at what times. I was thinking around 5 minutes 4 times in the light period?

I have a 6 inch intake and an 8 inch exhaust set up just the way you expressed. Also a small ocsilating fan on the floor and a clip on oscillating fan at the top mainly blowing on the top of the light board. It seems to really move.

RE the scrog nets, do you do any tucking under your first net in the first week or so of the flip? What sort of stall should I expect within flipping?

Thanks a lot


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#4
merl1n

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Hey mix'n'match,

 

Feeding regimes vary heaps. I run mine @ 15min/hr, every hr. Some say that's too much, some don't, but that's what I run it at.

I too use clayballs at the base of the pot, then perlite above. Both MUST be well washed prior to use as when the dust gets wet it turns into a grinding paste. The dust can also smother the roots, not what you want.

 

"RE the scrog nets, do you do any tucking under your first net in the first week or so of the flip? "

That depends how close to the edge of my scrog net the veg growth (18/6 growth) is, to maximise my space I want the growth right to the edge of my netting. If it's not at the edge I have been known to tuck some 12/12 growth under, but once you turn her 12/12 you have to be VERY careful not to damage the stems or she'll weep. If she weeps within the bud, mould will develop and that mould can infect the entire grow.

 

"What sort of stall should I expect within flipping?"

That really can vary depending on strain.

 

As for your fans, I have an exhaust fan only and a passive intake.

 

Merl1n


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