Mildews and moulds.......look out

[Try Blu]

I hear ya Itchy,

 

Im far from an expert on anything. ( apart from how to annoy the missus.) It seems in this day and age we can find all sorts on the internet that supports any views we may or may not have. I try to follow the advise from .gov and or .edu sites, while also trying to take on board the knowledge of people like yourself. An open mind and a willingness to listen and learn is where I try to keep my mindset.

 

Triscombe? Do you mean trichome? Or are they the same?

 

In a perfect world I would leave my plants alone  to fend for themselves. El natural. No help at all from a numpty like me. Doesn’t work that well in my backyard. It seems they need some numpty help to get their best......often their best is completely average. Hahaha.

 

Anyways. I’m grateful for your posts and knowledge.  Cheers. 

I think we are all trying our best. Learning curves and all that. Trying to make the best of our situations.

 

 

What I am trying to get my head around atm is the total active ingredient expressed as ppm in a foliar spray tank.

eg. Eco neem has 12grams of aza per 1 litre of solution. 
If I use 2ml of that solution and mix it to one litre of water, then spray this equally across 6 plants. How many ppm does each plant receive? 
 

From the above calcs. I should be able to work out the residual ppm left on or in the plants after a couple of half life’s etc etc.  

Could possibly even work a backwards formula to see when the latest application can be made in order to obtain  less than........let’s say .5-1ppm at harvest.

Sounds good in my head. The only drama is I suck at math.

 

Probably quite simple......sigh.

Edited December 27, 2020 by Try Blu

[itchybromusic]

hey blu 

the ppm thing your trying to workout sounds to much like micro managing a grow which will have you pulling ya hair out imo 

i don't think you could workout ppm per plant the way you lay it out above , you'd need to know how much liquid comes 

out per spray if using a small 1lt spray bottle , how much of that spray landed on the plant & how much didn't , if one plant

was diff in any way = size , leaf structure , it will require more or less spray , that's too hard in my world 

 

the thing is plants in general were round for thousands of years b4 someone found this round red thing hanging off a plant 

ate it & called it a tomato , somehow it survived all that time without pest or pathogen attack or maybe with pest & pathogen attack

& made it through , if you watched that john kempf vid showing weeds full of aphid right beside a tomato plant with no aphid 

why aren't the aphid migrating to the tomato plant ? 

 

lots of beneficial fungus & bacteria in compost & worm castings that can fight many pest & pathogen & a consistent moisture 

level will help keep them alive & active , compost extracts for soil drenches & compost teas for foliar spraying , lots of glues

are made in compost teas which stick to leaf surface with lots of bacteria & fungi with it , ( i say glues cos i can't remember the tech term )

 

of cause the cultivar choice is also quite important , growing a strain that is already acclimated to your area will also help 

which is prob a bit more of a long term breeding project , you could cut the time down by tapping into someone else's 

breeding in your area 

 

so i'd tend to look at anything that increased plant health a little more than plant protection sprays , you can use companion 

planting in the form of trap plants , for instance aphids might like nasturtiums more than most things so if it was common in

your grow to be battling aphid maybe put some pots round with nasturtiums to attract any aphid away from your valuables

using plants as living mulch to retain moister so you have less wet / dry periods , using grasses , not so much as ground cover

but for the diversity of beneficial organisms they attract to the soil & your plants root system , someone said to me once lift

your eyes , meaning your looking intensely at your plant which is good but by doing that your missing the whole picture possibly

missing plants in the area that are inviting pest & disease to your garden 

[itchybromusic]

oh yeah 

i meant trichome not sure why i wrote triscombe , prob cause a can't spell for shit 

[Try Blu]

Hahaha. Sure. Maybe I am a control freak. .

You do make it sound a little complicated with the ppm thing. I’ll have a go at a simplified approach after this post.

Made me giggle with the little 1 litre spray bottle thingy. Good on you.

 

I did watch your video. It was good. As I have said earlier though......it’s not the insects that I have a problem with.

 

Choice of cultivars is a good one. I’m getting a little bored of the salivas I grow though. Tonguing for a skunky type harvest, or a hybrid of sorts. I’m trying that this season. Not one full blown sativa in sight. I very might end up with nothing.

Bangi haze form ace crossed with Skunk from 00. 

 

Bean  plants usually let me know what’s about. Keeping the ants off my grow usually saves the dramas that honeydew brings.
 

Finding other pollen chuckers in my area is problematic. I don’t know how tap into someone else’s breeding programme. Secrecy is safety for my family and I. 

 

Re the lifting of the eyes to see the bigger picture. That was the motivation to starting this thread. There are septorias , leaf spot diseases, moulds everywhere surrounding my canna patch. In my turf, the neighbours turf in their fruit trees, their weeds. There all sorts of shit everywhere. My garden.....everyone’s garden so it seems. 
My canna plants sit  in the middle of all this shit. 

 

Im striving for plant health the best I can. Aiming to get  them to the start of flower pest and pathogen free if I can.

Once flower commences it’s sort of all over for any spraying programme......with the ‘cides’ at least.

Edited December 28, 2020 by Try Blu

[Try Blu]

I’m sort of rambling to myself here.

Going to have a go at trying to work out how much active ingredient (a.i.)  of insecticide is left on my outdoor plants after I spray them. Then how much residual is on them after a month.

Im not expecting anything exact. Just a ‘thereabouts” to give me an idea of what is going on.  
Same sort of plant structure and size. No run off. Everything stays on the plant would seem the best way to calculate this.

 

 

Below link shows allowed pesticide levels in medicinal cannabis in one of the US states.

https://www.oregon.gov/oha/PH/PreventionWellness/marijuana/Documents/oha-8964-technical-report-marijuana-contaminant-testing.pdf

 

This one, while a little too sciencey for my head, with formulas I’ll never understand , does have a  pretty comprehensive list of pesticides, fungicides etc and their associated half lives which seems easy enough to get the gist of. Screenshot of the aza half life bit added below link.
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/es500434p

 

Half-lives if anyone is unsure and interested.

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/half-life.html

 

Here we go:

 

Eco neem has 12grams of active ingredient (azadirachtin)  per 1 ltr bottle

12 grams = 12000ppm.        1ltr = 1000ml

12000ppm / 1000ml = 12ppm a.i.  per 1ml of concentrate.

 

2ml of concentrate  mixed into 1ltr of tap water = 24ppm of a.i.
let’s say I fill a 1 gallon pump sprayer with 4 ltrs of this ......should equate to 4 x 24ppm = 96ppm a.i in the sprayer.

i spray half a litre on each plant. Total 8 plants. Sprayer should be empty. 96ppm / 8 plants = 12ppm per plant. 

 

The above pubs doc suggests an Aza half life of ( I’ll round it up ) 3 days. So 2 x half life’s per week as a foliar.

After 1 month  a total of 8 half lives apply.

 

End of week 1 = 6ppm per plant

End of week 2 = 1.5 ppm  per

End of week 3 = 0.38 ppm per

End of week 4 = 0.1 ppm

 

 

I hope this makes sense. I hope it’s correct. .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[itchybromusic]

well blu be interesting to see if these calculations workout benefiting you & your grow , i've seen guys doing

very similar stuff to you in the US with soil amendments & brix , there running a business so makes complete sense to know

first what your spending your money on & whether that spend is achieving the desired effect 

the diff between them & you is , they have freedom to cultivate & unlimited access to a lab    

 

if mold is surrounding your patch makes it bloody hard , i would suggest using EM-1 on everything soil drenches & spraying 

start with your lawn & don't expect over night repair but the consortium of organisms in EM do a good job at 

bringing soil & plants back to stasis 

 

also i'm a fan of diversity & that's no diff to pest / pathogen sprays , thyme oil is a fungicide along with tea tree clove & peppermint

diff strains of fungi could react differently to different control sprays 

 

good luck with it mate hope your able to gather the insight your looking for 

 

Clove oil https://www.escentialsofaustralia.com/search?q=organic+clove+oil

Thyme oil https://www.escentialsofaustralia.com/products/productid783?_pos=2&_sid=d4a71e52d&_ss=r

Tea tree oil https://www.awo.com.au/tea-tree-essential-oil-certified-organic/

Peppermint oil https://www.awo.com.au/peppermint-essential-oil-arvensis-certified-organic/

 

https://www.livingapartment.com/product/probiotic-living-liquid/

 

 

Probiotics ie Beneficial Micro-Organisms (EM). Organic BFA certified.

Probiotic Living™ can be used in a many different ways.

Contains:- Organic(Non-GM) probiotic micro-organisms mixed with Molasses, Sea Salt, Mineral powder(Azomite).

Firstly this is not registered as a food grade product (this is actually a plus, as you get extra beneficial microbes all at a much lower price). The micro-organisms contained in the product are listed below and you will find a list of the beneficial effects at the end.

Probiotic Living™ is a collection of 15 different types of living beneficial microbes, store at room temperature ready for action, can be used in a multitude of ways to keep yourself, your family, your pets, your plants, your house and the environment, healthy and clean.

PNSB(purple non-sulfur bacteria) or Phototropic Bacteria- (Rhodopseudomonas palustris & Rhodopseudomonas sphaeroides).

Bacillus subtilis.

Lactobacillus acidophilus; Lactobacillus casei/rhamnosus; Lactobacillus bulgaricus; Lactobacillus fermentum; Lactobacillus plantarum.

Bifidobacterium animals; Bifidobacterium bifidum; Bifidobacterium longum.

Streptococcus lactis; Streptococcus thermophiles.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae.