anyone using Teco HY 150/500/1000 series water chillers?e

[dr.greenthumb1985]

i'll check out loki for sure... just had a bit of a squiz at one of his vids. he must have everyfukking LED known to mankind! fukk he's got some different light set ups... but anyway, just dropped my ppm to 1000... see how that goes over the next few days.

Less is more when it comes to dwc mate. If it’s too strong then it will hinder the water uptake as well and then cause more heat stress. Best way is to monitor the ph and E.C level compared to the water level. If the water is being use up and the ph and E.C is staying constant then your on a winner. If the water level is dropping and the E.C or ph is then they’re not consuming the nutes and it’ll cause you problems as it drinks all the water.

 

Can’t remember if you said your using a rhizo nutrient. Highly recommend adding one in ASAP if your not. Current culture ROOTS, canna, Cyco UPTAKE, any other root stimulators will work. I use current culture roots the whole way through the grow and it works a bloody treat.

 

 

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[vek618]

Less is more when it comes to dwc mate. If it’s too strong then it will hinder the water uptake as well and then cause more heat stress. Best way is to monitor the ph and E.C level compared to the water level. If the water is being use up and the ph and E.C is staying constant then your on a winner. If the water level is dropping and the E.C or ph is then they’re not consuming the nutes and it’ll cause you problems as it drinks all the water.

 

Can’t remember if you said your using a rhizo nutrient. Highly recommend adding one in ASAP if your not. Current culture ROOTS, canna, Cyco UPTAKE, any other root stimulators will work. I use current culture roots the whole way through the grow and it works a bloody treat.

 

 

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ok... so i need to get the EC in line with how much the plants are feeding. i've dropped down from 1350 to 1000 ppm so if the EC is higher when i go to top up (3>5 ltrs/day on average) then i still need to drop it more and if the ppm is lower then i need to bring it up more? i'm using great white for rhizo nutes and i'm feeling pretty confident that this has saved me from slime issues with high water temps. got the Teco now so water temp issues are a thing of the past... praise the Lord! 

Edited October 27, 2018 by vek618

[papasmurf999]

Great white isa mycorrizal fiungai mate, get a root tonic like rhyzo or rhizotonic etc man. Rhizotonic and cannazyme are a really good combo.

ok... so i need to get the EC in line with how much the plants are feeding. i've dropped down from 1350 to 1000 ppm so if the EC is higher when i go to top up (3>5 ltrs/day on average) then i still need to drop it more and if the ppm is lower then i need to bring it up more? i'm using great white for rhizo nutes and i'm feeling pretty confident that this has saved me from slime issues with high water temps. got the Teco now so water temp issues are a thing of the past... praise the Lord!

[vek618]

Great white isa mycorrizal fiungai mate, get a root tonic like rhyzo or rhizotonic etc man. Rhizotonic and cannazyme are a really good combo.

 

got some cannazyme... played around with some coco when i first got serious but fuk that canna gear is lotsa $$$... might grab some UC Roots from Cultured Solutions @ $130/3.8ltr... rhizotonic is an extra $200 for only 1.2ltr extra. Rhizotonic 15ml/4ltrs compared to UC Roots 1>3ml/4ltrs. a touch over half the price per litre and goes 5 x further. am i missing something?

[dr.greenthumb1985]

ok... so i need to get the EC in line with how much the plants are feeding. i've dropped down from 1350 to 1000 ppm so if the EC is higher when i go to top up (3>5 ltrs/day on average) then i still need to drop it more and if the ppm is lower then i need to bring it up more? i'm using great white for rhizo nutes and i'm feeling pretty confident that this has saved me from slime issues with high water temps. got the Teco now so water temp issues are a thing of the past... praise the Lord!

Yea that’s right mate, if the water levels dropping and the E.C is increasing then they’re drinking mainly water, if the E.C is rising then just top it of with fresh water or a real mild solution to get back to what ever level you want it to be at.

If you keep putting nutrient mix into it then the strength will go right up causing the plant to lockout and stress, including uptake of water to cool off.

 

You will have to monitor it as it grows through the stages as it’s going to want more or less in the tank depending on the stage it’s in.

Anyone that tells your that your nute strength should be at a set point for each week is full of shit. What they give you on feed charts is just a guide. Every strain feeds more or less at different stages. Some strains will just take up everything you can through at them while others will just be c*^ts.

That’s also why it’s not the best idea to have different strains feeding off the same tank.

 

It’s all about learning how to read the plants and see if they can eat more or less. Every strain is different.

Hope this makes sense to ya mate, heaps ripped so it might be a bit muddled up.

 

 

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[vek618]

Yea that’s right mate, if the water levels dropping and the E.C is increasing then they’re drinking mainly water, if the E.C is rising then just top it of with fresh water or a real mild solution to get back to what ever level you want it to be at.

If you keep putting nutrient mix into it then the strength will go right up causing the plant to lockout and stress, including uptake of water to cool off.

 

You will have to monitor it as it grows through the stages as it’s going to want more or less in the tank depending on the stage it’s in.

Anyone that tells your that your nute strength should be at a set point for each week is full of shit. What they give you on feed charts is just a guide. Every strain feeds more or less at different stages. Some strains will just take up everything you can through at them while others will just be c*^ts.

That’s also why it’s not the best idea to have different strains feeding off the same tank.

 

It’s all about learning how to read the plants and see if they can eat more or less. Every strain is different.

Hope this makes sense to ya mate, heaps ripped so it might be a bit muddled up.

 

 

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makes total sense to feed that way and i think i got lucky with the 2 strains being reasonably compatible. if it is nute lockout from over feeding which is making more sense everyday then i don't think the widow will suffer at all on lower ppm.  

 

found some UC Roots locally for $130 for 3.8ltr. is this supposed to replace the white shark/mycorrhizal fungi root type nutes/stimulators i've been using? 

 

also don't know if it will be an issue but i'm down to my last 50ml each of the AN ph perfect 3 part and need to change to GH flora bloom and micro.... i won't be buying the AN gear again. next time i top up i'll gradually incorporate the GH

[papasmurf999]

I wouldnt think you would add mycorrizal fiungai to a dwc setup, most people run completely sterile i think.

makes total sense to feed that way and i think i got lucky with the 2 strains being reasonably compatible. if it is nute lockout from over feeding which is making more sense everyday then i don't think the widow will suffer at all on lower ppm.

 

found some UC Roots locally for $130 for 3.8ltr. is this supposed to replace the white shark/mycorrhizal fungi root type nutes/stimulators i've been using?

 

also don't know if it will be an issue but i'm down to my last 50ml each of the AN ph perfect 3 part and need to change to GH flora bloom and micro.... i won't be buying the AN gear again. next time i top up i'll gradually incorporate the GH

[dr.greenthumb1985]

makes total sense to feed that way and i think i got lucky with the 2 strains being reasonably compatible. if it is nute lockout from over feeding which is making more sense everyday then i don't think the widow will suffer at all on lower ppm.

 

found some UC Roots locally for $130 for 3.8ltr. is this supposed to replace the white shark/mycorrhizal fungi root type nutes/stimulators i've been using?

 

also don't know if it will be an issue but i'm down to my last 50ml each of the AN ph perfect 3 part and need to change to GH flora bloom and micro.... i won't be buying the AN gear again. next time i top up i'll gradually incorporate the GH

The root stims aren’t the same as mycorrs.

Should be used in conjunction with it.

Only need to add the shark a few times during the grow from what I understand of it.

I haven’t been able to find any proper info on weather it’s even really needed in dwc at all. Some people say it can turn bad but who knows. If it’s working ok then keep with it.

Look into the GH stuff as well cause I thought it was made by the same people but just without the fancy labelling.

House and garden isn’t bad and the current culture base stuff seems to be good.

 

 

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[dr.greenthumb1985]

I wouldnt think you would add mycorrizal fiungai to a dwc setup, most people run completely sterile i think.

Yea I can’t get a clear answer on that from anyone papa.

There’s a few RDWC things I’ve seen that say don’t add it to keep the system sterile but then I’ve seen to add mycorr.

I’ve chucked it in a couple of times this grow and it seems to be working good. Little bit of sediment in the bottom of the modules but nothing negative.

 

 

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[papasmurf999]

Yeah, from all the yanks I follow that do rdwc they seem to just go really clean and sterile with it all. No organics at all. But it's one of those things that's evolving rapidly. Some of the stuff they are adding to their systems are unreal.

Yea I can’t get a clear answer on that from anyone papa.

There’s a few RDWC things I’ve seen that say don’t add it to keep the system sterile but then I’ve seen to add mycorr.

I’ve chucked it in a couple of times this grow and it seems to be working good. Little bit of sediment in the bottom of the modules but nothing negative.

 

 

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