anyone using Teco HY 150/500/1000 series water chillers?e

[papasmurf999]

Sounds like a plan man, im keen to see how ya go with it [emoji108]

[vek618]

 taking pics along the way. when i get her up and running i'll start a new thread detailing the build and start of the grow to begin with..

[dr.greenthumb1985]

taking pics along the way. when i get her up and running i'll start a new thread detailing the build and start of the grow to begin with..

I just bought a Teco 150 and put it in about 10 days ago, it made a massive difference. They took off.

My system is about 160L and it keeps it at about 18.5c (was sitting about 23) with the room about 24-25c.

After researching water temps it seems like a massive issue with lack of dissolved oxygen and bad bacteria/Rott in having the root zone too warm.

I originally put the Teco in series on the return line back to the main tank but found that it restricted water flow massively and it wasn’t cooling the water properly. Contacted a lot of people to see if it was meant to be like this and in the end just put a small 500lph pump and ran a seperate 13mm line to and from the chiller into the main tank. Works perfectly now and doesn’t interrupt the flow of the system.

 

 

 

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Edited October 25, 2018 by dr.greenthumb1985

[dr.greenthumb1985]

hi all. 2nd indoor grow and first time hydro doing an r-dwc bucket scrog.

 

thumbnail_IMG_7035.jpg

 

been looking to upgrade my chiller as the one i've been using over the cooler months isn't cutting the mustard with the warmer weather coming on... summer comes fast but even faster it seems when your growing hydroponically!

 

research so far tells me that the Teco chillers although dear as phuk are the crack for both performance, reliability and power usage. I'm running about 50lts atm in an uninsulated res and can't keep the temps under 21 deg cel the last week or so and the leaves on the colas have been cupping and edges of leaves seem to be a little brittle.

 

thumbnail_Image-1.jpg

 

not sure what is causing this whether it is nutes (read that it could to excess N), humidity, temp in both room and res but reading that res temps are more critical than room temps to a degree. at 5th week of flower using AN ph perfect 3 part @ 3/4 strength, GH kool bloom liquid @ 2.5ml per ltr, biodiesel guano bloom @ 4ml per ltr with total ppm @ 1100 to 1200. room temp 25 > 33deg cel, humidity 50 > 65% and rez water temp 20 > 25deg cel. also just backed off the HLG 260 v2 quantum boards wondering if it is to do with too much light... quantum boards rock!

 

I'm in the process of another build, r-dwc 36site sog which will hold maybe up to 120lts, maybe tad more but everything will be 100% insulated, res, root chamber, pipes and hoses etc. the Teco TK 150 for aquariums is said to do a fantastic job of cooling and keeping 150lts or less between 18 and 21 deg cel so i would assume the HY 150 for hydroponics with the same ltr rating is going to do the some job.

 

anyway, interested to hear from anyone with experience using a teco and maybe some info on why the leaves around colas are cupping and hooking down and some hooking up.

What base nutes are you using?

 

They look like they’ve got heat stress and nute lock.

 

Need to make sure your using nutes targeted for DWC or RDWC. If they’re not mineral and contain enzymes than it can cause issues with bad bacteria and sludge in the root zone.

And always go with the less is more concept. You can easily half the recommended dosage that the nutrient companies put on their grow charts for RDWC.

Also keeping a constant ph and water temp seems to be critical in my opinion. Every time the girls get stressed from large fluctuations it takes valuable time for them to resume growing.

A bluelab ph controller is worth its weight in gold in my opinion.

 

 

 

 

Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app

[vek618]

I just bought a Teco 150 and put it in about 10 days ago, it made a massive difference. They took off.

My system is about 160L and it keeps it at about 18.5c (was sitting about 23) with the room about 24-25c.

After researching water temps it seems like a massive issue with lack of dissolved oxygen and bad bacteria/Rott in having the root zone too warm.

I originally put the Teco in series on the return line back to the main tank but found that it restricted water flow massively and it wasn’t cooling the water properly. Contacted a lot of people to see if it was meant to be like this and in the end just put a small 500lph pump and ran a seperate 13mm line to and from the chiller into the main tank. Works perfectly now and doesn’t interrupt the flow of the system.

Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app

thank you good doctor.... ended up pulling the trigger myself on the HY 150 and delivered and set up yesterday...it’s going smashingly well. went and bought a tunze 800 lt/h sub pump for the chiller... pretty hot in the shed yesterday but theHY 150 did outstandly for the conditions. from what i gathered it’s on for about 1/2 hr hits temp 19deg and is good for about 45 mins until it reached 20deg then chiller kicks in again and yet to insulate res, bucket and hoses n pipes. looking forward to getting the insulation done this weekend and seeing how it performs... i’m guessing it will only need to run a few hrs a day ... we’ll see anyway. i’ll post the redults

[vek618]

What base nutes are you using?

They look like they’ve got heat stress and nute lock.

Need to make sure your using nutes targeted for DWC or RDWC. If they’re not mineral and contain enzymes than it can cause issues with bad bacteria and sludge in the root zone.

And always go with the less is more concept. You can easily half the recommended dosage that the nutrient companies put on their grow charts for RDWC.

Also keeping a constant ph and water temp seems to be critical in my opinion. Every time the girls get stressed from large fluctuations it takes valuable time for them to resume growing.

A bluelab ph controller is worth its weight in gold in my opinion.

Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app

running AN ph perfect at 3/4 strength, full strength koolbloom liquid and biodiesel guano bloom, great white and cyco silica 1350 ppm total 

 

ph is pretty stable but the odd fluctuation [edit] ph @ 5.9>6.2 steady rise and steady fall. not a big fan of the ph perfect probable coz i'm using tap water]

 room temp could be over 35 during the day (lights out) when i’m not home and water temps have been over 25>26 but no slime issues... water seems to be nice and clean.

 

funny you mentioned ph controller... got a bluelab yesterday with the chiller but yet to set it up. next step portable a/c conversion from single to dual hose.

 

might have missed one or 2 points you made replying on my phone and small screen..

 

anyway thanks again doc

[edit] apparently made a noob mistake and have 2 strains in one basket... but the white widow fast leave aren’t curling up like the power africa fast.. they’re looking great...

Edited October 26, 2018 by vek618

[papasmurf999]

1350ppm, isn't that like crazy high for dwc mate?

[vek618]

too high on the nutes? possibly papa. I've shopped around for ppm levels to get a vague idea of what ppl are running at and reading feed charts knowing that it will be strain dependant, too. i've seen ppm's of 1400 and 1500 in passive dwc systems. but everything is growing well despite the curled up leaves.... maybe the flowers should be more advanced at this stage... not sure really but i may have to lean towards docs prognosis of heat issues... I'm not sure about the nute lockout suggestion as they have been putting on some decent weight the last week [as far as my limited knowledge goes] and just steadily ticking along but there still seems to be a slight bit of stretching gong on which might also indicate a heat issue?... 

[papasmurf999]

I havent ran dwc mate but im sure people run like 450 ppm in dwc, even in flower I don't think it gets much higher than 600. There's a guy on YouTube called loki grow that has some cool rdwc content.

too high on the nutes? possibly papa. I've shopped around for ppm levels to get a vague idea of what ppl are running at and reading feed charts knowing that it will be strain dependant, too. i've seen ppm's of 1400 and 1500 in passive dwc systems. but everything is growing well despite the curled up leaves.... maybe the flowers should be more advanced at this stage... not sure really but i may have to lean towards docs prognosis of heat issues... I'm not sure about the nute lockout suggestion as they have been putting on some decent weight the last week [as far as my limited knowledge goes] and just steadily ticking along but there still seems to be a slight bit of stretching gong on which might also indicate a heat issue?...

[vek618]

I havent ran dwc mate but im sure people run like 450 ppm in dwc, even in flower I don't think it gets much higher than 600. There's a guy on YouTube called loki grow that has some cool rdwc content.

 

i'll check out loki for sure... just had a bit of a squiz at one of his vids. he must have everyfukking LED known to mankind! fukk he's got some different light set ups... but anyway, just dropped my ppm to 1000... see how that goes over the next few days.