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Australian Advanced Nutrients
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Outdoor Grow - Jack Herer (Fem) & Blue Power (Fem)

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#1
Beginner_bud

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G day everyone, 

 

I’m back for round two and can’t bloody wait. I had a blast last round, and will be enjoying the fruits of my labor for quite a while. Hopefully I’ve learnt a thing or two and can do even better this round. 

 

This year I’ve decided to spread my wings a bit and attempt two strains in my grow. Both feminized seeds. 

 

The first being Jack Herer by Vision Seeds 

The second being Blue Power by Vision Seeds 

 

So I’ve done this to have one sativa dominant (Jack Herer) and one indica dominant (Blue Power) plus I’m dying to see the colours and aromas the Blue Power supposedly produces. 

 

I’ll begin again by making my own soil mix, this time a different mix comprising of: 

 

- 60-80L high quality soil (using the stuff my dad gets delivered for his tomato’s which also also have a touch of mushroom compost)

- 20L worm casting (from our compost) 

- 500g of organic Kelp Meal 

- 5kg of blood and bone (Yates)

- 2 cups of Dolomites lime 

- 2.5L perlite 

 

I will be growing in my rocket pots again (most likely) or possibly just fabric pots. 

 

Also, when we hit the beginning of summer (early December) I plan on also giving an auto seed I have a go. The strain is Bubble Auto by Female Seeds and has a life span of 10 weeks total. So I would like to harvest it mid to late Feb, giving it the most of the summer sun we have. Also this way I can harvest that one alone instead of 3 plants at once cause that would be a HUGE job haha 

 

Alrighty, well feel free to follow along, I can only imagine this will be another exciting and eventual grow season for everyone. 

 

Best of luck to you all! 


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Say thanks with some bits:  1Ed71abMUAJ3q3XBQzYzSzJRydR58kKeT1

#2
papasmurf99

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Following, looking forward to it.

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#3
Buds-lightyear

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Good luck
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#4
bakedcake

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Subbed in mate good luck
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#5
OldManDallas

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Dont mind the old Herer. Good luck sudded in also :)
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I choose to Live and to Grow

Take and Give and to Move

Learn and Love and to Cry

Kill and Die and to be Paranoid and to Lie

   To Hate and Fear and to do what Ever it takes to move through

 


#6
Matanuska Thunder

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love me some Jack too, 

watching your grow


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#7
Beginner_bud

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Cheers guys. I here Jack Here can be a bit more sensitive (not like my previous grow of white widow) so I’ll most certainly need a hand/advice from you all haha


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#8
itchybromusic

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just a couple of things that come to mind 

 

to 1.5 cubic foot of soil (around 42lts ) i add 3/4 cup of kelp not sure what that is in grams 

but i think you'd get the most out of your kelp by top dressing & tea making 

if you can do both soil amendment & top dress / tea , even better 

 

i use crab meal instead of dolomite but used at the same amount above , 3/4 cup to 42lts soil mix 

 

casting i would do the same with , keep it for top dress & tea making , again if you can do both = better 

 

i'll assume your tomato mix has aeration add but in general 1/3 of the mix should be aeration , perlite will break down 

leaving the mix without air , if your re-using / no tilling that is 

 

scoria is good , rice hulls are good but will break down as well , bio-char , both scoria aka lava rock & bio-char are full of

lill homes for microorganisms & you activate the char with something like gogo juice B4 mixing , i add 9 cups to 42lts activated 

on top of , one third of 42lts is air already 

 

growers might have heard the term " Nutrient Dense " a big part of that density is minerals , for instance , to 42lts of soil mix i add 7.5 cups of basalt / rock dust 

worms love the stuff 

 

not a big fan of blood & bone , think you can do better with green manure , especially if your planting a green manure cover crop 

that you ultimately kill but not B4 it's spat out roots & attracted lots of microorganisms to you plot or pot ready for the star of the show 

chop & drop the above ground green as mulch & feed for worms under the surface

  

lastly , mulch mulch mulch 

 

good luck with it mate 


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#9
Beginner_bud

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just a couple of things that come to mind

to 1.5 cubic foot of soil (around 42lts ) i add 3/4 cup of kelp not sure what that is in grams
but i think you'd get the most out of your kelp by top dressing & tea making
if you can do both soil amendment & top dress / tea , even better

i use crab meal instead of dolomite but used at the same amount above , 3/4 cup to 42lts soil mix

casting i would do the same with , keep it for top dress & tea making , again if you can do both = better

i'll assume your tomato mix has aeration add but in general 1/3 of the mix should be aeration , perlite will break down
leaving the mix without air , if your re-using / no tilling that is

scoria is good , rice hulls are good but will break down as well , bio-char , both scoria aka lava rock & bio-char are full of
lill homes for microorganisms & you activate the char with something like gogo juice B4 mixing , i add 9 cups to 42lts activated
on top of , one third of 42lts is air already

growers might have heard the term " Nutrient Dense " a big part of that density is minerals , for instance , to 42lts of soil mix i add 7.5 cups of basalt / rock dust
worms love the stuff

not a big fan of blood & bone , think you can do better with green manure , especially if your planting a green manure cover crop
that you ultimately kill but not B4 it's spat out roots & attracted lots of microorganisms to you plot or pot ready for the star of the show
chop & drop the above ground green as mulch & feed for worms under the surface

lastly , mulch mulch mulch

good luck with it mate


Hey Itchy,

Appreciate the feedback! I’ve purchase 1kg of kelp so I may use the rest as top dressing and tea then.

I don’t reuse my soil, so the perlite is brand new. Will it hold up for a full 5-6 month grow? I may throw some lavar rocks in too as I’ve heard they are great for the soil.

I’ve got heaps of work castings (more than enough to also make tea with)

I’m a little confused on the green manure part? What exactly is this?

Cheers
BB


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#10
itchybromusic

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right ok ,

 

no probs with perlite , the only prob with perlite is long term 

not an issue for a single grow only when you constantly re-use the soil/pot/plot 

 

i use 7-10mm scoria ,scoria is good stuff because of all the lill holes for organisms to shelter in

 

maybe this will help on the green manure info 

 

Green Manure 

noun
 
a fertilizer consisting of growing plants that are ploughed back into the soil.
 
 
 

 

PETER CUNDALL, The Weekly Times

 

 

May 6, 2015 12:00am

 

LIKE most traditional gardeners I cannot stand waste. So I’ve been gathering together old, 

half-used seed packets to empty them into a bucket.

It was a large collection of relatively outdated seeds, most of which would certainly germinate.

They included several bean varieties, peas, lettuce, silverbeet, brassicas and sweet corn.

The seeds are ideal for chucking over recently cleared and roughly dug vegetable beds to supplement a green manure crop.

Right now is a perfect time to sow any kind of green manure seeds while the soil is still warm.

This is probably the easiest and most valuable way to enrich soil and the resulting green manure does most of the work.

The finished result, well ahead of spring sowing and planting, is a healthy, balanced soil crammed with nutrient-rich organic 

matter and teeming with earthworms and beneficial micro-organisms.

The final reward is a superb combination of magnificent fertility in soil that also holds and retains moisture like a sponge.

The traditional green manure seeds to sow in autumn or early winter are those of leafy annual grasses such as barley, wheat, feed oats and ryecorn.

All grow strongly through winter to provide enormous quantities of bulky organic matter.

Always include plenty of legume seeds too, including the unused contents of old bean and pea packets.

However the most valuable of all winter-grown legumes for green manure are tic-beans (an extremely vigorous legume, closely-related to broad beans) and annual lupins.

While leafy annual grasses provide excellent organic matter, the legumes also replenish nitrogen taken up by previous vegetable crops.

They do this by means of special roots that are able to interact with soil micro-organisms to extract and “fix” nitrogen from soil atmosphere.

As these valuable fertility-­creating legumes grow, the collected nitrogen can be identified as great clusters of pale, wart-like nodules clinging to their roots.

I like to include mustard seeds to the mix, not only to take advantage of the leafy material produced, but also because they have roots 

that can provide useful control over eelworm or nematode infestations.

Mustard root systems are able to influence nematode eggs, causing them to hatch out prematurely while soils are still cold.

This is a useful way to help clean up infested soils before main crops go in during spring and summer.

My method of sowing a mixture of green manure seeds is old-fashioned, simple and even a bit primitive.

I simply walk over the ground scattering the seeds generously in all directions. They just fall to the ground and lie over the slightly-cultivated surface.

This is followed by a generous scattering of any kind of well-rotted animal manure, straight over the top.

Best fertilisers of all include that marvellous decomposed stuff from beneath shearing sheds or well-pulverised cow manure and of course my favourite: blood and bone.

Green manure seeds don’t need to be buried. It’s an easy task to simply rake the surface so they are either partly-covered or at least thoroughly dirtied.

A good rainfall during the next week will give the crop a flying start — otherwise use a sprinkler to get them started.

If sown during the next couple of weeks, a green manure crop will have germinated by the end of the month.

 
 

By mid-August most plants will have become a dense, knee-high mass of weed-suppressing foliage with the tic-beans even taller.

That’s when the lot are smashed down while still soft and sappy to be immediately dug in. Always use a fork for this job so earthworms are unharmed.

Once buried, this soft, green stuff rots with incredible speed.

By late winter or early spring, the first vegetable seedlings can go in or seeds sown.

And you’ll be amazed at the extraordinary vigour and disease-­resistance of the plants.

Even better is the greatest reward of all, the wonderful quality and flavour of your vitamin and mineral-rich organically grown vegetables.


Edited by itchybromusic, 11 July 2018 - 06:19 PM.

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WARNING/DISCLAIMER The OZ Stoners cannabis community contains information regarding cannabis & other drugs; it is designed for mature (18+) audiences only. This site in no way condones the use of cannabis by minors. The content here within this cannabis community is for educational & entertainment purposes only. Any buying/selling or trading of illegal cannabis seeds, clones, flowers, resin or oil is strictly prohibited within this cannabis community.