whats wrong with my plant leaf :(

[Yung]

Indoor/Outdoor:Outdoor

Growing Medium:Soil/ perlite 70/30

Growing Style:Greenhouse

Watering/Feeding Frequency: every 2nd day

Nutrient Strength (PPM/EC):advanced nutrients bloom

40mls to 10 liters of water

PH Levels:6

Temperature/Humidity Levels: around 25c

Air Flow/Fans etc.:

Lighting Type (CFL/HPS/MH etc.):

Total Wattage:

Growth Stage: flowering

Plants Age:didnt record when it started because im stupid

 

Cannabis Strain: blueberry Auto

 

also would anyone know aprox how long until its ready to harvest, ive bought a jewlers loupe but cant see the trichs well enough.

[loves420]

What's the magnification of your jewlers loupe? Have you looked at the underside of the leaf with your jewlers loupe?

 

I don't see webbing, but that spotted looks like it might be spider mites...or thrips, but I'm learning more to the mites. I put some info on the spider mites and thrips with pics.

 

 

http://growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/two-spotted-spider-mite-adult-with-egg-species-tetranychus-urticae-cannabis-growers-worst-nightmare-sm.jpg

 

To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny, moving dots; however, you can see them easily with a 10X hand lens. To observe mites more closely, shake a few off the leaf surface onto a white sheet of paper. Once disturbed, they will move around rapidly. After, I fold up the paper and burn it in my bbq. Adult females are less than 1/20 inch long. Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. A single colony may contain hundreds of individuals. The presence of webbing is an easy way to distinguish them.

 

Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes, or be carried by pets, clothing or infected plant material. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.

 

When spider mites are feeding marks little yellow speckles or stipplings show on leaf surfaces.

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/spider-mite-damage-cannabis-sm.jpg

 

When you turn a leaf over (underside of leaf), tiny, oval shaped mites, about pin head in size, are scurrying around.

 

http://growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/two-spotted-spider-mites-with-eggs-sm.jpg

 

Their eggs, best seen with a magnifier, will be scattered around at random. Spider Mite eggs are all perfectly round, the same size, ranging from clear to amber in color. 

 

 

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/IMAGES/T/I-AC-TSPP-EG.005h.jpg

 

Eggs of the two-spotted spidermite

 

As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off. With larger infestations a fine webbing, crawling with mites, covers the plant tops (also known as tenting).

 

 

The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/spider-mite-marijuana-webbing-leaf-sm.jpg

 

If mites are the problem here's some things you can do:

 

Wash your plants. Dust on leaves, branches and buds encourages mites and will wash some off.

 

Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.

 

Some people use garlic extract, clove oil, mint oils, rosemary oil, cinnamon oil and others. Don’t use soaps or oils on water-stressed plants or when temperatures exceed 90°F/32.2C. These materials may injure some plants, so check labels and/or test them out on a portion of the foliage several days before applying a full treatment. Oils and soaps must make contact with the mites to kill them, so excellent coverage, especially on the undersides of leaves, is essential, and repeat applications most likely to be required.

 

I use Avid and like miticides, but when all other options have failed. This is my last option before pulling a plant to save the rest of my crop.

 

I use beneficial insects mostly. Make releases when pest levels are low to medium. Ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are some important natural enemies of the spider mite. You can also use mite destroyers (black ladybugs), and thrips. There are 10 species of thrips that are beneficial ones. Some eat mites, (pest) thrips, aphids, and whiteflies, and other soft-bodied insects. For example, the black hunter thrips (Aelothrips sp.) are found in tree fruit crops. They mainly prey on the eggs and young spider mites and do not harm trees. The 10 species of predatory thrip: Aleurodothrips fasciapennis (Franklin), Androthrips flavipes Schmutz, Androthrips ramachandrai Karny, Karnyothrips flavipes (Jones), two indeterminate Karnyothrips sp.1 and sp.2, Leptothrips sp., Podothrips lucasseni (Krüger), and two indeterminate Podothrips sp. 1, and sp. 2.

 

 

 

 

Thrips are generally tiny (1 mm/ 1/20 inch long or less) are elongate, slender, minute and have long fringes on the margins of both pairs of their long, narrow wings. they are poor flyers and depend on the wind to carry them from venue to venue In the right conditions, like indoor growing rooms or greenhouses, many species can exponentially increase in population size and form large swarms because of a lack of natural predators, making them an irritation to us humans.

 

Immatures (called larvae or nymphs) are oblong or slender and elongate and lack wings. Most thrips range in color from translucent white or yellowish to dark brown or black. A few species are brightly colored, such as the distinctive reddish-orange larvae of the predatory thrips, Franklinothrips orizabensis and F. vespiformis.

 

Females of most plant-feeding species lay their elongate, cylindrical to kidney-shaped eggs on to leaves, buds, or other locations where larvae feed. The pale prepupae and pupae of most species drop to the soil or leaf litter or lodge within plant crevices or galls. Greenhouse thrips pupate openly on lower leaf surfaces; while pupae (and eggs) of some gall-making species, such as Cuban laurel thrips and myoporum thrips, occur on leaf surfaces but are enclosed within distorted plant tissue. Thrips have several generations (up to about eight) a year. When the weather is warm, the life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as short a time as 2 weeks.

 

Eggs are torpedo shaped, about 0.2 mm long and deposited on the surface of flowers or leaves either in groups or singly. The eggs of the Haplothrips victoriensis (predator thrip) change color from milky white to yellow to orange as they develop.

 

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/marijuana-thrips-spots-leaves-damage-closeup-sm.jpg

 

The leaf surfaces is finely speckled with yellow spots. The leaf spots are bigger and more irregularly shaped than the bites left from spider mites. Later, a silvery metallic looking sheen may cover leaf surfaces. Not all Thrips create this sheen. With or without the sheen, you'll also see black specks (Thrip fecal material). Only on close inspection is the pest itself found. About 1/16" long, thrips can move quite quickly for their size. Many gardeners report thrips as a small "worm with legs". Larvae and adults look similar, but adults have wings and can fly.

 

http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/assets/img/comp/ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/thrips-on-marijuana-plants-35645-w800.jpg

 

 

If thrips are the problem here's some things you can do:

 

Thrips are attracted to the color blue, put a sticky trap out. I usually have yellow and blue sticky traps out. These are used mostly to see what pests are around

 

Most Thrips move down into soil, rockwool or other synthetic growing media to pupate. This is the first stage at which to control Thrip populations, using Predator Nematodes. Often after two months, regular application of Nematodes alone gives good control. However, for heavy or persistent infestations, It's highly recommend using Nematodes in conjunction with above-ground controls. Your choice will depend largely on the environment in your growing area.

 

For thrips that feed in buds or unexpanded shoot tips, clip off several plant parts suspected of harboring thrips, place them in a jar with 70% alcohol (ethanol), and shake vigorously to dislodge the thrips. Strain the solution through filter paper so thrips can more readily be seen. Watch the online video demonstration of this technique.

 

Reflective Mulch or mesh that reflects light interferes with certain flying insects’ ability to locate plants. Silver or gray is the most effective color for synthetic reflective mulch or mesh, but white also works.

 

 

To control thrips:

 

 

most common species is resistant to Malathion

 

Soapy water sprays (such as Safers Soap) don't continue to kill off insects after the initial spraying, so they're safe to use before you add beneficial Bugs. Use them instead of more powerful, longer lasting pesticides, but test a few leaves first for any adverse reactions.

 

Spinosad products are organic and unlike many other thrip pesticides, completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Unlike many insecticides, you can spray spinosad heavily on leaves and roots with basically no negative effects. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill thrips on contact, but can also be used when watering plants to systematically kill thrips via the roots. Spinosad is also effective at fighting caterpillers, spider mites, and many other cannabis pests. Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills thrips via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to thips, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects. Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application.

 

Pyrethrin based insecticides are not very toxic for humans and degrade quickly (just a day or two), which is why they're commonly recommended for vegetable gardens. The major problem with them is they are very toxic to bees. Although cannabis plants generally don't attract a lot of bees, please use this as a last resort, and also try to use it right after the sun goes down because bees sleep at night. This lets it start to break down before the bees wake up.

 

Insecticides will kill beneficial insects, make sure you check when it safe to add them if you used before you add the beneficial insects.   For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. Ladybugs, Lacewings, Pirate bugs, Predator nematodes, predator mites, predator thrips, and wasp parasites can be used.

 

No matter the pest, after working with your plant(s) take a shower and put on new clothes. wash your dirty close and towel. I wear different shoes when I working with my plants

 

Hope this helps

 

 

[Yung]

What's the magnification of your jewlers loupe? Have you looked at the underside of the leaf with your jewlers loupe?

 

I don't see webbing, but that spotted looks like it might be spider mites...or thrips, but I'm learning more to the mites. I put some info on the spider mites and thrips with pics.

 

 

http://growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/two-spotted-spider-mite-adult-with-egg-species-tetranychus-urticae-cannabis-growers-worst-nightmare-sm.jpg

 

To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny, moving dots; however, you can see them easily with a 10X hand lens. To observe mites more closely, shake a few off the leaf surface onto a white sheet of paper. Once disturbed, they will move around rapidly. After, I fold up the paper and burn it in my bbq. Adult females are less than 1/20 inch long. Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. A single colony may contain hundreds of individuals. The presence of webbing is an easy way to distinguish them.

 

Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes, or be carried by pets, clothing or infected plant material. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.

 

When spider mites are feeding marks little yellow speckles or stipplings show on leaf surfaces.

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/spider-mite-damage-cannabis-sm.jpg

 

When you turn a leaf over (underside of leaf), tiny, oval shaped mites, about pin head in size, are scurrying around.

 

http://growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/two-spotted-spider-mites-with-eggs-sm.jpg

 

Their eggs, best seen with a magnifier, will be scattered around at random. Spider Mite eggs are all perfectly round, the same size, ranging from clear to amber in color.

 

 

 

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/IMAGES/T/I-AC-TSPP-EG.005h.jpg

Eggs of the two-spotted spidermite

As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off. With larger infestations a fine webbing, crawling with mites, covers the plant tops (also known as tenting).

 

 

The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/spider-mite-marijuana-webbing-leaf-sm.jpg

 

If mites are the problem here's some things you can do:

 

Wash your plants. Dust on leaves, branches and buds encourages mites and will wash some off.

 

Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.

 

Some people use garlic extract, clove oil, mint oils, rosemary oil, cinnamon oil and others. Don’t use soaps or oils on water-stressed plants or when temperatures exceed 90°F/32.2C. These materials may injure some plants, so check labels and/or test them out on a portion of the foliage several days before applying a full treatment. Oils and soaps must make contact with the mites to kill them, so excellent coverage, especially on the undersides of leaves, is essential, and repeat applications most likely to be required.

 

I use Avid and like miticides, but when all other options have failed. This is my last option before pulling a plant to save the rest of my crop.

 

I use beneficial insects mostly. Make releases when pest levels are low to medium. Ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are some important natural enemies of the spider mite. You can also use mite destroyers (black ladybugs), and thrips. There are 10 species of thrips that are beneficial ones. Some eat mites, (pest) thrips, aphids, and whiteflies, and other soft-bodied insects. For example, the black hunter thrips (Aelothrips sp.) are found in tree fruit crops. They mainly prey on the eggs and young spider mites and do not harm trees. The 10 species of predatory thrip: Aleurodothrips fasciapennis (Franklin), Androthrips flavipes Schmutz, Androthrips ramachandrai Karny, Karnyothrips flavipes (Jones), two indeterminate Karnyothrips sp.1 and sp.2, Leptothrips sp., Podothrips lucasseni (Krüger), and two indeterminate Podothrips sp. 1, and sp. 2.

 

 

 

 

Thrips are generally tiny (1 mm/ 1/20 inch long or less) are elongate, slender, minute and have long fringes on the margins of both pairs of their long, narrow wings. they are poor flyers and depend on the wind to carry them from venue to venue In the right conditions, like indoor growing rooms or greenhouses, many species can exponentially increase in population size and form large swarms because of a lack of natural predators, making them an irritation to us humans.

 

Immatures (called larvae or nymphs) are oblong or slender and elongate and lack wings. Most thrips range in color from translucent white or yellowish to dark brown or black. A few species are brightly colored, such as the distinctive reddish-orange larvae of the predatory thrips, Franklinothrips orizabensis and F. vespiformis.

 

Females of most plant-feeding species lay their elongate, cylindrical to kidney-shaped eggs on to leaves, buds, or other locations where larvae feed. The pale prepupae and pupae of most species drop to the soil or leaf litter or lodge within plant crevices or galls. Greenhouse thrips pupate openly on lower leaf surfaces; while pupae (and eggs) of some gall-making species, such as Cuban laurel thrips and myoporum thrips, occur on leaf surfaces but are enclosed within distorted plant tissue. Thrips have several generations (up to about eight) a year. When the weather is warm, the life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as short a time as 2 weeks.

 

Eggs are torpedo shaped, about 0.2 mm long and deposited on the surface of flowers or leaves either in groups or singly. The eggs of the Haplothrips victoriensis (predator thrip) change color from milky white to yellow to orange as they develop.

 

 

http://www.growweedeasy.com/sites/growweedeasy.com/files/marijuana-thrips-spots-leaves-damage-closeup-sm.jpg

 

The leaf surfaces is finely speckled with yellow spots. The leaf spots are bigger and more irregularly shaped than the bites left from spider mites. Later, a silvery metallic looking sheen may cover leaf surfaces. Not all Thrips create this sheen. With or without the sheen, you'll also see black specks (Thrip fecal material). Only on close inspection is the pest itself found. About 1/16" long, thrips can move quite quickly for their size. Many gardeners report thrips as a small "worm with legs". Larvae and adults look similar, but adults have wings and can fly.

 

http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/assets/img/comp/ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/thrips-on-marijuana-plants-35645-w800.jpg

 

 

If thrips are the problem here's some things you can do:

 

Thrips are attracted to the color blue, put a sticky trap out. I usually have yellow and blue sticky traps out. These are used mostly to see what pests are around

 

Most Thrips move down into soil, rockwool or other synthetic growing media to pupate. This is the first stage at which to control Thrip populations, using Predator Nematodes. Often after two months, regular application of Nematodes alone gives good control. However, for heavy or persistent infestations, It's highly recommend using Nematodes in conjunction with above-ground controls. Your choice will depend largely on the environment in your growing area.

 

For thrips that feed in buds or unexpanded shoot tips, clip off several plant parts suspected of harboring thrips, place them in a jar with 70% alcohol (ethanol), and shake vigorously to dislodge the thrips. Strain the solution through filter paper so thrips can more readily be seen. Watch the online video demonstration of this technique.

 

Reflective Mulch or mesh that reflects light interferes with certain flying insects’ ability to locate plants. Silver or gray is the most effective color for synthetic reflective mulch or mesh, but white also works.

 

 

To control thrips:

 

 

most common species is resistant to Malathion

 

Soapy water sprays (such as Safers Soap) don't continue to kill off insects after the initial spraying, so they're safe to use before you add beneficial Bugs. Use them instead of more powerful, longer lasting pesticides, but test a few leaves first for any adverse reactions.

 

Spinosad products are organic and unlike many other thrip pesticides, completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Unlike many insecticides, you can spray spinosad heavily on leaves and roots with basically no negative effects. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill thrips on contact, but can also be used when watering plants to systematically kill thrips via the roots. Spinosad is also effective at fighting caterpillers, spider mites, and many other cannabis pests. Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills thrips via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to thips, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects. Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application.

 

Pyrethrin based insecticides are not very toxic for humans and degrade quickly (just a day or two), which is why they're commonly recommended for vegetable gardens. The major problem with them is they are very toxic to bees. Although cannabis plants generally don't attract a lot of bees, please use this as a last resort, and also try to use it right after the sun goes down because bees sleep at night. This lets it start to break down before the bees wake up.

 

Insecticides will kill beneficial insects, make sure you check when it safe to add them if you used before you add the beneficial insects. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. Ladybugs, Lacewings, Pirate bugs, Predator nematodes, predator mites, predator thrips, and wasp parasites can be used.

 

No matter the pest, after working with your plant(s) take a shower and put on new clothes. wash your dirty close and towel. I wear different shoes when I working with my plants

 

Hope this helps

 

Thank you so much for the detailed reply, you have gone above and beyond very helpful thank you.

 

 

Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app

[billygoat]

It’s in late flower, leaves like that are perfectly normal.

 

Can’t understand that cursive