Tunks terrible LED light build.

[Tunkers]

Tunks leds at full tilt burn out quickly that is why they have a recommended run amperage, at full bore they also produce a shit load of heat it would be very inefficient

Yup.. that's the entire reason for a dimmer mate. Half amperage would be quite efficient

[micmac]

I think you u both got it wrong , 1.4 ampere rating is the maximum amount of amps that can be drawn not what it puts out, I'll try to explain

The lights in your home are probably different watts in different locations with the brightest on the kitchen etc where in other room u may have a lower wattage, the brightest lights are going to draw more amps

I=V/R so basically the more resistance the higher the amps drawn

100w bulb has more resistance so it will draw more amps than a 60w bulb

So in saying that 1.4 rating ampere would easily supply a led with a draw of 1.2 max amps

Yes I was a electrician finished apprenticeship in 1981

It's a long story but when I turned 44 I think went back and got some more education and became youth councillor b4 that I ran a successful air conditioning business

I would be more concerned matching to light to the correct transformers supply the correct voltage, could be wrong electronics is not my forte

 

 

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[Tunkers]

I think you u both got it wrong , 1.4 ampere rating is the maximum amount of amps that can be drawn not what it puts out, I'll try to explain

The lights in your home are probably different watts in different locations with the brightest on the kitchen etc where in other room u may have a lower wattage, the brightest lights are going to draw more amps

I=V/R so basically the more resistance the higher the amps drawn

100w bulb has more resistance so it will draw more amps than a 60w bulb

So in saying that 1.4 rating ampere would easily supply a led with a draw of 1.2 max amps

Yes I was a electrician finished apprenticeship in 1981

It's a long story but when I turned 44 I think went back and got some more education and became youth councillor b4 that I ran a successful air conditioning business

I would be more concerned matching to light to the correct transformers supply the correct voltage, could be wrong electronics is not my forte

 

 

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I'm not gonna argue with you micmac. I am being guided by someone who is building a setup similar to the below link but basically with these new Samsung F series gen 3s and is getting design approval directly from LED grower in the video. I trust he knows what he's doing and will continue to follow his build closely and make decisions based on his results. I have to save up for the parts still so it gives time to see if what you are saying is right [emoji106]

 

https://youtu.be/zMEDQGipCAA

[micmac]

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=SI-B8U521560WW&v=1510

 

look at that link and u never run LED's at anything even close to full power hence the cobs are rated 150watts we power them to 50watts but have fun burning out the lights prematurely

im sorry to say that if your leds are burning out quickly the most likely cause is cold solder joins or loose connections somewhere in the circuit causing if u like miniature voltage surges

Most noob mistakes in do it yourself electronics is cold solder joints

 

 

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[Inthewoods]

I'm trying COBS at the moment from Timber Grow Lights. They got here quick all the way from Santiago and I'm very impressed with the quality. Beats trying to put something together myself and they are very friendly and will answer any questions you have through their online chat on the website. Worth checking them out. They seem to be the leaders in this new tech

 

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[Inthewoods]

Oh and micmac. Not to knit pick but Resistance is inversely proportional to the current. As shown in the formula you put for ohms law. It's on the other side of the division thingy. So in your description you're saying a 100w bulb has more resistance and therefore uses more current. I got what u meant but its the opposite to what you're saying. 100w is less resistance so it allows more current flow. Think of resistance like a kink you're putting in a garden hose. The more you kink the less flow of water. The more resistance the less electron flow/current. The more electrons going through the filament in a bulb then the brighter it gets until it burns up. A direct short is as close as you'll get to no resistance = No kink in hose. Sorry if my kinky description offends some readers

[micmac]

 

 

 

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Edited October 11, 2017 by micmac

[micmac]

Yeah got that the wrong way around u are 100%

Think I'm getting old timers

 

 

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[Inthewoods]

So has anyone else in Aus got their hands on Timber GL's? growmau5 on YouTube got me on to them. They are awesome! They seem to know their stuff in terms of electronics and dialing in the correct spectrum for cannabis. I have nothing else to compare it to as I've only used HPS a long time ago but LEDs are really advancing and will one day become the norm in my opinion. Can't wait to try them out. I have the kit of 4. The Citizens I think. It's like 4 suns sitting on my desk when I turn them on. Definitely not for the naked eye. And that's even before I turned the dimmer up!

 

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[Tunkers]

Decided to rehash this thread now that I'm getting started on buying bits and pieces. But before I get the LEDs I was interested on everyone's thoughts regarding Kelvin.

 

Kelvin isn't me mate, it's the colour temperature of the lights. I'm going with 4 strips to start with so I can do all 4 the same or mix it up. Question is, if you were to buy a new light, what would you want?

 

1. 3000K (more red)

2. 3500K

3. 4000K

4. 4500K

5. 5000K (more blue)

 

I'm thinking to just go straight with 4000K and not concerned myself with it too much, but want your guys opinions?