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29 replies to this topic

#21
AussieBogan

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Get ready for itchys shopping list!

It's worth it! You gotta be dedicated!
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Say thanks with some bits:  1Ed71abMUAJ3q3XBQzYzSzJRydR58kKeT1

#22
itchybromusic

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canna terra pro is the soil mix 

& biocanna are the veganic bottled nutes i used with that soil mix 

 

i think you can buy a biocanna terra pro soil = veganic soil mix but not here 

 

Nothing wrong generally with the canna terra pro , if i was out of my own soil mix

& needed some , canna terra would be what i'd get i reckon as a cheaper way to go

 

it's not a big deal , especially outdoors to reinoculate the soil in a pot

 

i can def give you a mix but as AB says it's a bit of work & $$$ up front , cheaper in the long 

run if you don't add your labor / mixing time

 

Canadian sphagnum peat moss

quality casting or compost 

scoria rocks 7mm 

 

kelp 

neem

gypsum 

crab , oyster , dolomite 

malted barley powder 

biochar 

rock dust 

 

there is the list of stuff if you want to make yourself 

i also add a lill inoculate to the mix above

 

there a couple of soil places round that have allot of this stuff ready to go

Dr greenthumb , living soil solutions & a couple of others

 

let me know if you need amounts to mix your own if you choose to go that way

& i'll pop up the links to the bulk supplies i get  


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#23
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canna terra pro is the soil mix
& biocanna are the veganic bottled nutes i used with that soil mix

i think you can buy a biocanna terra pro soil = veganic soil mix but not here

Nothing wrong generally with the canna terra pro , if i was out of my own soil mix
& needed some , canna terra would be what i'd get i reckon as a cheaper way to go

it's not a big deal , especially outdoors to reinoculate the soil in a pot

i can def give you a mix but as AB says it's a bit of work & $$$ up front , cheaper in the long
run if you don't add your labor / mixing time

Canadian sphagnum peat moss
quality casting or compost
scoria rocks 7mm

kelp
neem
gypsum
crab , oyster , dolomite
malted barley powder
biochar
rock dust

there is the list of stuff if you want to make yourself
i also add a lill inoculate to the mix above

there a couple of soil places round that have allot of this stuff ready to go
Dr greenthumb , living soil solutions & a couple of others

let me know if you need amounts to mix your own if you choose to go that way
& i'll pop up the links to the bulk supplies i get

Thanks again. I reckon I'm going to try the canna Terra pro with bio nutes first maybe. Don't have the cash right now to fork out for bulk goods. Does your bud have nice flqvour?
Can I pick your brain again please bro
So do you start the seed out in a seed raising mix or straight in the canna Terra? And also what feeding schedule do you use with the bio please brother
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#24
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Get ready for itchys shopping list!

It's worth it! You gotta be dedicated!

I love itchys post. So much knowledge. And hashy too. 2 amazing dudes to learn from. And others too. Micmac etc. Just to name a few.
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#25
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Wait. Here is another question. Haha. Do you ph you water and if so to what ph?
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#26
itchybromusic

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Does your bud have nice flqvour?  Fuck yeah ,

 

when i used biocanna nutes with the boost , quite some time ago now 

smell & flav were really good as long as you didn't fuck up in the drying process , i've ran without the boost once it started

to get to expensive to buy & can say the boost def added to your overall result , we are only talking a small diff though imho 

 

i make a seed raising mix & start in smaller pots & get them a lill more established B4 moving to there final home 

a small seedling in a big pot is a lill harder to deal with = lots of wet soil & not lots of roots to consume it 

 

starting in a smaller squatter pot should will help a lill with any stretch if starting under lights indoors 

 

going off memory i start fairly early with rhizotonic & once a decent size started feeding @ 1/4 strength 

i think i only ever got to 3/4 strength with the vega & bloom & full with the boost , mostly based on there 

feeding chart , i think i used full strength rhizo , cannazym & boost , 3/4 strength vega & bloom 

 

never PH'd anything , soil & nutes were all in the window off the bat & i used rain water at the time 

 

i still don't PH anything but i do keep an eye on a couple of things 

you have to figure collecting rain water of a roof via spouting is going to collect more than just water 

 

if you keep water bubbling 24/7 , you stop the mozzies from laying eggs in there but you get to see if 

the water your bubbling foams or not , if the water creates any foam , there is something else in the water ( enter Jaws music ) lol 

 

i don't dispose of it , i dilute it down with a RO water system , which means i'm still using the contaminated 

water but in a much smaller dose , if i keep a decent size mulch layer & water slowly , the mulch will help to 

work as a water filter to catch some or all the contaminate 

 

keep in mind canna is a bit of a accumulator , which means it can take up lots of things it either can't use or 

only use a very small amount of , it will store allot of whats left , heavy metals come to mind

 

they are using hemp in China , fukushima , to accumulate the radio active crap in the area , the bigger prob 

is what are they going to do with radio active hemp ? bury it :sick   


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#27
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Love it when he visits... Get gifted a ziplock bag every time with a grade canna! Smooth smoking! Last time he came it was tangie dream... The citrus flavour's are real lol
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#28
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Does your bud have nice flqvour? Fuck yeah ,

when i used biocanna nutes with the boost , quite some time ago now
smell & flav were really good as long as you didn't fuck up in the drying process , i've ran without the boost once it started
to get to expensive to buy & can say the boost def added to your overall result , we are only talking a small diff though imho

i make a seed raising mix & start in smaller pots & get them a lill more established B4 moving to there final home
a small seedling in a big pot is a lill harder to deal with = lots of wet soil & not lots of roots to consume it

starting in a smaller squatter pot should will help a lill with any stretch if starting under lights indoors

going off memory i start fairly early with rhizotonic & once a decent size started feeding @ 1/4 strength
i think i only ever got to 3/4 strength with the vega & bloom & full with the boost , mostly based on there
feeding chart , i think i used full strength rhizo , cannazym & boost , 3/4 strength vega & bloom

never PH'd anything , soil & nutes were all in the window off the bat & i used rain water at the time

i still don't PH anything but i do keep an eye on a couple of things
you have to figure collecting rain water of a roof via spouting is going to collect more than just water

if you keep water bubbling 24/7 , you stop the mozzies from laying eggs in there but you get to see if
the water your bubbling foams or not , if the water creates any foam , there is something else in the water ( enter Jaws music ) lol

i don't dispose of it , i dilute it down with a RO water system , which means i'm still using the contaminated
water but in a much smaller dose , if i keep a decent size mulch layer & water slowly , the mulch will help to
work as a water filter to catch some or all the contaminate

keep in mind canna is a bit of a accumulator , which means it can take up lots of things it either can't use or
only use a very small amount of , it will store allot of whats left , heavy metals come to mind

they are using hemp in China , fukushima , to accumulate the radio active crap in the area , the bigger prob
is what are they going to do with radio active hemp ? bury it :sick

Amazing info as always. Thank you brother. I usually use osmocote seed raising mix bit might look for a better quality seed raising mix. I do start in small pots. I was planning to germ and do the first week or so indoor and hope temps are better outdoor by then. Which should be about 2 weeks from now. Otherwise setup a little veg tent.

A little issue I'm having outdoor. Got flying fuckers all over and in my soils. Not sure yet if its fruit flies or fungus gnats. What do you reccomend killing the fuckers with?
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#29
itchybromusic

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no worries 

seed raising mix i make is 

 

9 cups) Spagnum Peat Moss
2 cups) castings / compost ( 1 cup is fine , i choose an extra cup to get a bit more life out of a lill pot cos i don't always transplant when i should 

                                                                    to much castings at seedling stage can cause germ probs , which is a lill hard to understand when you

                                                                    lift the lid on the worm bin there are seeds sprouting all over when you use kitchen scraps )  
2 cups) Perlite or rice hulls , no scoria for seeds = too heavy 
1/8 cup) kelp meal
1/8 cup) dolomite lime or oyster shell 

 

let it sit for a week to get the microbes moving round 

from the castings 

 

fruit fly generally have a food source , when i put food scraps in the worm towers = in bed worm farms , i get fruit fly but only when i don't cover the food scraps 

in the tower with some soil , are you composting or worm farming near by with kitchen food scrapes 

 

gnats you notice but shouldn't be that bad , they love moisture & eating fungus , have a look round for areas that stay moist / wet 

 

you'd need to identify the flyer but neem , whether neem meal / cake or neem oil is a good one for all kinds of bugs 

don't forget you can make a similar aloe/kelp tea = neem/kelp & aloe tea , this one bubbled for 24hrs & used as a soil drench 


Edited by itchybromusic, 08 September 2017 - 04:34 PM.

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#30
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I use a true living organics set up. Pump up aeration and increase microbes. Lots of perlite and lots of myco fungi.

 

BASE MIX
2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)
AMENDMENTS
1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)
 
This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.
ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE.
This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.

 

references:

http://greenthumbgir...oil-i-made.html

http://moldresistant...living-organics


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