Gut bacteria spotted eating brain chemicals for the first time

[cardrona]

Thanks...

Very true have you looked into myco?

I have seen the rockefeller stuff ...very spot on

Yep unfortunately GM is not being labelled properly and is growing ...most world food aid is gm

Monsanto is currently in Uruguay growing gm cannabis testing it ready to flood the world with it and with products from it  

[itchybromusic]

it's fucked mate , your eating 305 , 264 , 792 , how is anyone gonna know what they are 

& who got the brown paper bag full of green backs to make sure that law got past 

 

we get most of our salmon farmed which means we need to eat twice as much as wild salmon

but that's cool were going to fix that by GM'ing a sea plant to produce more of what "WE" need in our salmon 

how come that kinda thinking is cool 

 

i have looked into myco / mykorrhiza but prob just enough to get me in to trouble knowledge wise 

gotta be careful what you buy though , living organisms in a bottle / jar , in a box , on a pallet , on a truck , left outside in the sun

could be a very diff product than what's on the label , culturing your own is not that hard if your really keen 

Edited April 19, 2017 by itchybromusic

[Swftroml]

Interesting talk fellas.. Hmmm I'm of to drink some em1 just got another bottle in the mail today so awesome timing. Contains Lactobacillus rhamnosus among others. Edit: Excuse my butting in there. Edited April 19, 2017 by Swftroml

[itchybromusic]

they even have kombucha in woollies now , buy your own scoby & make your own ,

def be better than most things mass produced i would think 

 

you can even get EM-1 toothpaste = piss that fluoride bs off 

[cardrona]

Ha ...haven't seen the toothpaste      anything new gets sold into merchandise slavery sad....your right make your own ..

if you need any vid's i have good links for that stuff ...I will forward later on

[pug1010]

home made kimchi / sauerkraut is great stuff to get gut bacteria/yeast working in harmony. Not a coincidence that it is very similar to the relationship between fungi and bacteria that Elaine Ingham refers to in the Soil Food Web. Anyone who has taken antibiotics should get amongst the homemade kimchi ... love mine with a bit of cayenne pepper. I even scull the kimchi juice ... delicious.

[cardrona]

Our grandparents loved anything with bacteria in it vinegar based usually......

It will be interesting how many keep  the tradition up.

 

it is like food scraps of carbon a tonic of seasol or worm castings for your composting gut .

 

 It works in helping cells etc..... like compost does for plants and soil nutrition.

Our guts are a compost heap and you piss,fart,crap, off excess gas /materials

To much of an imbalance kills good ratio's..

it's all linked.

Did you know that all organic matter has a ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) in their tissues? For microorganisms, carbon is the basic building block of life and is a source of energy, but nitrogen is also necessary for such things as proteins, genetic material, and cell structure.

Balance of C:N is Key

Decomposition of organic materials in your compost pile is greatly increased when you create the proper balance between the carbonaceous materials (called BROWN because they are dry) and the nitrogen-rich materials (called GREEN because they are more fresh and moist).

In compost lingo, this balance is referred to as the Carbon-Nitrogen ratio, and shown as C:N.

Now, it is true that most people simply don't give a hoot about this scientific hocus-pocus stuff. Waste is waste! And when you just want to throw the stuff away, you're not inclined to stop a moment to ask, "Gosh, is this Carbon or Nitrogen?"

http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.com/images/cmpst_01.jpgBut magic is afoot out there in nature. And much of the sleight of hand of composting, whether you are aware of it or not, has to do with the organic materials' content of Carbon and Nitrogen. Blow this stuff off and you might get a surprise when you open the lid to your bin: it may reek to holy hell, like rotten eggs or ammonia, or it may just be sitting there doing absolutely nothing! Which is to say your pile has become a cold couch potato, and it ain't going nowhere fast!

So, back to this necessary balance between the Carbon content of your waste material and the Nitrogen content. For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of Carbon for energy and Nitrogen for protein production. Compost scientists have determined that the fastest way to produce fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere around 25 to 30 parts Carbon to 1 part Nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N ratio is too high (excess Carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile.

 

 

http://infolific.com/leisure/homemade-sauerkraut-kimchi-kombucha-vinegar/

 

 Did you know that all organic matter has a ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) in their tissues? For microorganisms, carbon is the basic building block of life and is a source of energy, but nitrogen is also necessary for such things as proteins, genetic material, and cell structure.

 

Balance of C:N is Key

 

Decomposition of organic materials in your compost pile is greatly increased when you create the proper balance between the carbonaceous materials (called BROWN because they are dry) and the nitrogen-rich materials (called GREEN because they are more fresh and moist).

 

In compost lingo, this balance is referred to as the Carbon-Nitrogen ratio, and shown as C:N.

 

Now, it is true that most people simply don't give a hoot about this scientific hocus-pocus stuff. Waste is waste! And when you just want to throw the stuff away, you're not inclined to stop a moment to ask, "Gosh, is this Carbon or Nitrogen?"

 

compost handsBut magic is afoot out there in nature. And much of the sleight of hand of composting, whether you are aware of it or not, has to do with the organic materials' content of Carbon and Nitrogen. Blow this stuff off and you might get a surprise when you open the lid to your bin: it may reek to holy hell, like rotten eggs or ammonia, or it may just be sitting there doing absolutely nothing! Which is to say your pile has become a cold couch potato, and it ain't going nowhere fast!

 

So, back to this necessary balance between the Carbon content of your waste material and the Nitrogen content. For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of Carbon for energy and Nitrogen for protein production. Compost scientists have determined that the fastest way to produce fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere around 25 to 30 parts Carbon to 1 part Nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N ratio is too high (excess Carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile.

Edited April 20, 2017 by cardrona

[cardrona]

These efficient microbes improve the soil, increase plant health and yield, help keep pests away, and are some of the most important beneficial bacteria and yeasts that make up our world.

They can be purchased as a liquid that contains specific species mixed at specific ratios.

This is done in a lab, so you can’t make it from scratch yourself, but you can get what’s called a ‘mother culture’ and then make 20 times that amount. This not only saves money, but wakes up the dormant microbes, making them more effective.

That process is called activating the effective microorganisms. It’s a fermentation, like wine and yogurt, but the result is much better for you and your garden. And today I’m going to give you my own effective microorganisms recipe.

I’m not going to get into the details of what it is and why you should make it because this post is just about how to make effective microorganism solution (I’ll give you a link to the what and why at the end of the post), but I will just say that I believe this is the most important thing for most people to bring into most gardens. I’ve seen seemingly miraculous results with it, both in the garden and in people who drink it (I’ll talk about the drinking part another day).

Now, EM Effective Microorganisms® (it’s called EM or EM1 for short) is actually a brand name. I tend to use the term generically like ‘Band-aid’, but I don’t even use the EM product. I actually use a similar product made by SCD Probiotics.

But both brands are great, so go with whatever you can get your hands on.

And this is a great time of year to start the process…

Here are the steps:

1. Mother culture. First you need a mother culture. The one I’ve been using for 10 years (and started selling in the U.S. last year) is called ‘ProBio Balance’ . The ‘Bio Ag’ product on that page is for people who don’t want to do this activation process, as it’s already activated for you and can’t be reliably activated anymore.

2. Molasses. Get some unsulfured blackstrap molasses,   from the grocery store. Unsulfured is important because sulfur is used in some molasses to actually kill microorganisms, while we’re trying to multiply them. Blackstrap is important because it’s lower in sugar and higher in nutrients. Organic is not all that important for this, but I always prefer to go organic when I can (note: it’s never been an issue for me before, but I recently read that organic molasses may have a ‘pH buffer’ in it that can stop the pH from falling in the activated EM, so some people add an amount of vinegar equal to the organic molasses to overcome that – again, this is new to me and I’ve never done it, but thought I’d mention it here).

3. Container. Find a used plastic container with a tight lid, like a water or soda bottle. Any size will do, but I usually make batches in 1 quart, 2 quart or 1 gallon containers. If you’re lucky enough to have a carboy (pictured above), that will work too because it allows the gases to escape that are formed during fermentation. But if you don’t have that, the reason plastic is nice is because it has some flexibility and can handle the gas pressure better than a regular glass container.

4. Water. Fill the bottle approximately half full with hot water – not boiling, but something that’s slightly too hot to take a bath in. If you can use spring water or dechlorinated water, that’s great, but you know what, I’ve made this plenty of times with city water with chlorine or chloramine in it and it works fine as long as it’s not over-chlorinated – the microbes probably even clean that up because some of them are detoxifiers.

5. Mix in the molasses. Add the unsulfured blackstrap molasses to the water at 4% of the container’s volume (table below). The heat coupled with your swishing (which you can commence forthwith) will help dissolve it.

6. Mix in the mother culture. Add the EM1 or ProBio Balance at 5% of the container’s volume.

7. Nutrition. This is a bonus step. You don’t have to do it, but it will add some more nutrients in there. If you have sea salt or kelp powder  , add one of those in at 0.25% of the container’s volume.

Container Size

Hot Water (80-85%)

Molasses (4%)

Mother Culture (5%)

Sea Minerals (0.25%)

1 pint

1 ¼ Cups

1 ¼ Tbsp

1.5 Tbsp

¼ tsp

1 quart

2.5 Cups

2.5 Tbsp

3 Tbsp

½ tsp

2 quart

5 cups

5 Tbsp

6 Tbsp

1 tsp

1 gallon

10 Cups

⅔ Cup

¾ Cup

2 tsp

5 gallon

4 Gallons

3 ⅓ Cup

4 Cup

3 Tbsp

The percentages don’t add up to 100% because I leave a 5-10% air space on top. Also note that while I’ve given fairly exact numbers above, you don’t have to be nearly that exact. Just try to use a little more EM than molasses.

 

8. More water. Fill the rest of the bottle up with more hot water, leaving an inch or two of space on top.

9. Shake. Gently, but firmly, like you’re playing shaker in a Sergio Mendes song – not like you’re a machine that shakes paint cans.

10. Warmth. It will do best to sit somewhere between 90-110 degrees Fahrenheit, so put it in the warmest part of your house. I actually put mine in my oven with just the oven light on, and a post it note on the ‘Bake’ button to let the cook of the house know it needs to be removed if any cookies are to be made (learned this one the hard way). It will work okay at 70F, but will take a lot longer.

11. Leave it. I leave the cap off for the first 24 hours, but after that I screw it on tight because this is a fermentation (without air). It will take at least 1 week until it’s okay to start using, and more like 2-4 weeks until it’s really good (or 6-8 weeks if you can’t find a warm place for it to sit). Even at a warm temperature, it’s nice to give it 1-3 months to reach peak perfection. That’s why it’s nice to start this process now, so it’s ready for spring.

12. Burp it. If you don’t have a carboy, you’ll eventually want to ‘burp’ it daily by simply unscrewing and screwing the lid back on, to release the gases that will start forming after 2-5 days depending on the temperature.

13. Test it. Once you’ve been doing this for awhile, you can get a feel for when it’s done by smell and taste, but I still like to do a test with pH paper (or a pH meter) that gives readings in the 2.5 -4 range. Anything below 3.8 and above 2.7 is okay, with 3.0-3.5 being ideal. 3.8 and above are no good.

14. Use it.  I use it monthly as a spray on my plants, soil and compost, at 1/2 cup per 1000 square feet.

15. Store it. At room temperature, not in direct sunlight, but not necessarily in the dark either, as it seems to like a little indirect light (I’m not sure how important the light level is, and I’m not sure how the bright oven light affects it during the fermentation period). The mother culture has an expiry date, but in my experience will last a year beyond that. Your homemade activation is most effective within the first month after the pH drops below 3.8, but will store for months after that. If you make a few bottles, once the activation is done, you can use one bottle to fill the rest up to the brim so as to store them without air, and then just use that bottle first. A little air is okay during the fermentation, but not during storage if you want it to last a long time.

[cardrona]

[cardrona]