Cool Tubes

[Roadblock]

How much air flow will one need to push down a  row of 4 x 150 ml cool tubes and take ALL air heat (around globe) away so that all Im left with is radiant heat ? Im running 4 x 600 watt  down each line and have 2 rows meaning 8 x 600 watts in the room.

 

How much radiant heat do you think would be left in the room if ALL air heat was removed down the tubes.

 

The room is 1.8 W _4.0 L_2.4 H .

 

Im dealing with constant 35 degree daytime temps outside, was thinking if I can make the above work I can run a small aircon to deal with the radiant heat , was also thinking if the 150ml tubes are too small a diameter to exhaust without blowing so much air down them that they whistle that I could do away with the glass tubes and using Greenhouse plastic make a semi circle attached to the roof and drape under the lights creating a much bigger tunnel and then vent that .

 

Running this room at night is not on .

 

Any ideas fellas.

[merl1n]

There is a fine line balancing act between light, airflow and area. If one is out of balance you won't be getting an optimum for what you are putting in.

There is such a thing as too much light. More light does not mean more bud

For example, there is only so much photosynthesis that can occur with that amount of light, in that size space, without increasing your CO2 levels.

Although you state you want to decrease the amount of heat, via cooltubes, I'd personally be recommending you decrease the amount of lights. Cooltubes will assist in decreasing the heat for sure, but you light requirements seem to be maxed out to the extreme for the size of your area imo

The other option is to increase your CO2 levels, but, again imo, CO2 systems can be expensive and difficult to get the exact right balances.

 

Hope it helps

Merl1n

[Roadblock]

Thanks merlin you make sense Ive always been of the notion more light the better if you can reduce the heat that is, its etched into the back off my brain that we are nowhere near the suns intensity, this room with 12 plants is giving 1.4lb per 600 watts as it is when its 26 outside, for 4mths its 35 outside and thats pushing me way over to where it hurts them a lot, at the moment the room gains about 8 degrees on top of ambient temps.

 

Without running C02 etc what do you think for the config for my room dimension,  min light, min no of plants, max yield .

 

Should be noted I can have 600ml inlet and 600 outlet dimension .

[Roadblock]

You got me thinking merlin, might try cutting back to 6 bulbs, turn the 6 cool tubes sideways at 700ml centres and run each one through its own 150ml in and out,   outside the room would have like extractors on an engine I might even be able run them passive as Im drawing cool air way down and venting 3.5mtr high one bulb would create some draw up a 150 tube I would think,  its also makes  a short distance for hot air to cross the room along each tube, and a bonus might apply if he works passively I can cover the outlets in winter until I get the heat I want, and I lose 2 fans and 2 lbs which allows a small aircon.

 

Im thinking side ways like this the tubes are not banked up multiplying the heat along the row, being a  rectangle room lighting the length is probably more efficient than the other way getting bounce light of the walls . 

[Gazza2001au]

8x 600watters in cooltube i would live to see this setup man haha but u don't need to show us really, if your running 4 cool tubes in one line how cool is your last cool tube before the heat exits the room? u ideally should be able to hold your hand on the glass

 

what kind of fan are u running to cool the cool tubes?

 

i ran two inline but mine cracked

 

if u can't hold your hand on the last cool tube your running to many inline, maybe try run individual cool tubes vented into a big box with one 200mm centrifugal fan than vent it to where ever or at lease vent 2 inline

 

you see the Americans and Canadians running huge links of lights in a row this is because they don't live in a desert, also its a bit of a concern as each cool tube that passes thru the cool tubes linked eventually heat up the last one and u have to be careful not to melt the wiring or the plastic cable holder that goes thru the aluminium spigot 

 

i remember reading in a book many years ago a indoor grow will always be 7c higher than outdoor temps unless u use a air conditioner, if u go with a air conditioner use a window type i just installed 2 and they work fucking fantastic, i heard those portable air conditioners don't even work probably why Gumtree is flooded with them

[flamstaa]

That's a bummer you can't run at night!

 

Can't comment on the cooltubes but I run 1.45 x 2.8 tent with 3 x 600 and I use CO2 (very dodgily) I get around the same per light as you but you're getting over 2 zips per sq foot which is outstanding as opposed to my 1.6 which I think is still pretty good

 

co2 is very tricky in tents and small rooms particularly when it's hot because it raises the humidity to off the dial levels making it more like a sauna. With my co2 I run it into the tent at a super slow flow rate but the exhaust running continuously so I'm not sure how effective it is, possibly not at all. but even with the exhaust off for 10 minutes the humidity gets out of control in the tent which it needs to maximise the benefit of the co2.  I purchased a dehumidifier but haven't got that dialed in yet, I did give it a go while the canopy was much smaller it still struggled to get the humidity down to reasonable levels but I suspect more work on my part regards fan and dehumidifier placement will get it sorted.

 

Finally with regards to your constant heat, have you considered LED? I have another 1.45 x 2.8 tent running 2 x SpydrX Plus LED lights and they are amazing! They will help with your heat issues big time. They're expensive ($2500 each) use way less power, if that's an issue but absolutely worth it. My 2nd run with them is about to finish and it looks like it's going to shit on the 600 tent for yield.

[Roadblock]

gday gazza I run a 150 phresh hyperfan fans silenced with a cannister one hyper for each row of 4 tubes, the hypers exhaust the room out through the tubes, I have 2 150 inlines  coming into the room at the bottom far end from the hypers . 

 

8mths of the year it runs great, but summer its just too hot Ive got to change something, and also easily be able to use the heat from the bulbs in winter, which if passive just got to restrict the flow for heat to rise.

 

Yes mate Ive got small window aircon its not that big 1600watts current at max, if I can vent the lights a little  better the aircon should be able to cut me temps back enough to get by ok, by losing 2 bulbs my heat comes back a lot and the power usage stays pretty much the same.

[Gazza2001au]

That's a bummer you can't run at night!

 

Can't comment on the cooltubes but I run 1.45 x 2.8 tent with 3 x 600 and I use CO2 (very dodgily) I get around the same per light as you but you're getting over 2 zips per sq foot which is outstanding as opposed to my 1.6 which I think is still pretty good

 

co2 is very tricky in tents and small rooms particularly when it's hot because it raises the humidity to off the dial levels making it more like a sauna. With my co2 I run it into the tent at a super slow flow rate but the exhaust running continuously so I'm not sure how effective it is, possibly not at all. but even with the exhaust off for 10 minutes the humidity gets out of control in the tent which it needs to maximise the benefit of the co2.  I purchased a dehumidifier but haven't got that dialed in yet, I did give it a go while the canopy was much smaller it still struggled to get the humidity down to reasonable levels but I suspect more work on my part regards fan and dehumidifier placement will get it sorted.

 

Finally with regards to your constant heat, have you considered LED? I have another 1.45 x 2.8 tent running 2 x SpydrX Plus LED lights and they are amazing! They will help with your heat issues big time. They're expensive ($2500 each) use way less power, if that's an issue but absolutely worth it. My 2nd run with them is about to finish and it looks like it's going to shit on the 600 tent for yield.

 

Holly shit 2.5K a light? talk about flexin the wallet haha, i might have to look up these lights i can't see why LED lights cost so much in this day and age i think we may be being ass raped

[Gazza2001au]

gday gazza I run a 150 phresh hyperfan fans silenced with a cannister one hyper for each row of 4 tubes, the hypers exhaust the room out through the tubes, I have 2 150 inlines  coming into the room at the bottom far end from the hypers . 

 

8mths of the year it runs great, but summer its just too hot Ive got to change something, and also easily be able to use the heat from the bulbs in winter, which if passive just got to restrict the flow for heat to rise.

 

Yes mate Ive got small window aircon its not that big 1600watts current at max, if I can vent the lights a little  better the aircon should be able to cut me temps back enough to get by ok, by losing 2 bulbs my heat comes back a lot and the power usage stays pretty much the same.

 

Is your room insulated? if a garden shed i can understand but in a house u should easily be able to control these temps that 1600w air conditioner would be around 3-3.5kw cooling capacity that is plenty, i just installed a 3.5kw and a 3.6kw window air conditioners and they work awesome!

 

if its in a house check the insulation over that particular room in the roof cavity maybe its old and worn out

[Roadblock]

I hear you brother, my ears pricked up as well .

 

Hey flamstaa can you tell us some more about your experience with the leds , what is the heat and coverage like , also the penetration of light how is that .

 

Cheers