Coco Nutrient Q?

[meddle]

I grew a 520 gm Bubba Kush in a 13.5 litre pot using  GT Optimum  (not coco specific) in bunnings coco... just saying 

 

Your plant looks nute burn to me, How are u measuring your EC and wat ec are you running  plants that size should probably be on about .8ec building up to about 1.2 through veg. and possibly up to about 1.5 in full bloom 

wow man thats a great result, using any additives?

 

I averaged around huge results per plant in 90L pots,  how much of that do you think has to do with Nutrient? Very little in my opinion, chalk and cheese. So many variables between different gardners, pot size, genetics, lighting, temps, humidity, how clean you are, how often you feed, medium, when lamps were changed last, bugs,......the list goes on and on. Nutrients play a role but not the major role as most people will carry on about. Thats why I get a little frustrated when people blame the nutrient for poor results, its the old tradesman blaming his tools routine. and Vice versa when people praise the nutrient only for their great results, this discounts your skill and expertise in your gardening skills and the genetics of the palnt you are growing , your attention to detail if you will.  I have grown some strains that were just so hardy that nothing would effect them, they would just produce and others that any little change, or heat or bug activity and they would struggle. 

You get out what you put in.

 

No offence to anyone though.

Edited for spelling and paranoia

Edited January 7, 2015 by meddle

[Sixty-Eight]

wow man thats a great result, using any additives?

 

I averaged around huge results per plant in 90L pots,  how much of that do you think has to do with Nutrient? Very little in my opinion, chalk and cheese. So many variables between different gardners, pot size, genetics, lighting, temps, humidity, how clean you are, how often you feed, medium, when lamps were changed last, bugs,......the list goes on and on. Nutrients play a role but not the major role as most people will carry on about. Thats why I get a little frustrated when people blame the nutrient for poor results, its the old tradesman blaming his tools routine. and Vice versa when people praise the nutrient only for their great results, this discounts your skill and expertise in your gardening skills and the genetics of the palnt you are growing , your attention to detail if you will.  I have grown some strains that were just so hardy that nothing would effect them, they would just produce and others that any little change, or heat or bug activity and they would struggle. 

You get out what you put in.

 

No offence to anyone though.

Edited for spelling and paranoia

 

the problem i had with the nutrifield coco is there is no added cal/mag its added to their coco instead and i used brunnings coco which doesnt have it added

 

i swapped to dutch master which states on there web site it has added mag and cal to there nutrient

[Frank Reynolds]

Coco B:

 

Calcium(Ca) 4.5%

 

Derived from Calcium Nitrate.

 

Mate nutrifield has heaps of calcium in there also has more than enough magnesium. I've been using there a+b for a while with my own prepared coco no problems. 

 

As said above we will not know specific nutrients each pheno prefers, unless we are doing leaf tissue analysis etc. But that being said ill add again coco (the medium) should be fed with less potassium and higher amounts of calcium to prevent future calcium lock outs and/or potassium toxicity. People may be having great results not using specific coco nutrients, but i am a believer in trying my hardest to prevent any and all problems as prevention is always easier and cheaper. 

[crow]

Coco B:

 

Calcium(Ca) 4.5%

 

Derived from Calcium Nitrate.

 

Mate nutrifield has heaps of calcium in there also has more than enough magnesium. I've been using there a+b for a while with my own prepared coco no problems. 

 

As said above we will not know specific nutrients each pheno prefers, unless we are doing leaf tissue analysis etc. But that being said ill add again coco (the medium) should be fed with less potassium and higher amounts of calcium to prevent future calcium lock outs and/or potassium toxicity. People may be having great results not using specific coco nutrients, but i am a believer in trying my hardest to prevent any and all problems as prevention is always easier and cheaper. 

 

Sorry to raise an old thread.  Frank, do you use any additives for flowering with the Nutrifield nutes?

[Faith]

I just used canna pk mid flower. Alaska pure and ocean mist right through as well as cargo boost...sounds like a sales spiel but it worked rhizo and cannzyme I had the whole show crow  (probably my best ones) dunno about this time though I thinking about brix.  alaska pure. I didn't know NF coco wasn't buffered???  No cal/mag?  Its the kind I use and I thought it was.  Frank do you amend your used coco with dolomite and stuff?  Be cool to see your coco prep.  Yes so crowsange maybe also the ozi magic range...there really are too many.  It is confusing.

Peace alll

Faith

Edited June 12, 2015 by Faith

[Frank Reynolds]

I use silica, fulvic/humic acid and seaweed regularly with my a + b that's it, a week of pk as well.

 

I prepare bunnings coco by flushing it well, then soaking it overnight in a home made cal/mag (with iron) solution at ph of 6. As of late i've been mixing this fresh coco about half half with re used un treated coco.

[crow]

Crikey guys!  "there really are too many"  and "silica, fulvic/humic acid and seaweed regularly with my a + b that's it, a week of pk as well" 

 

How much difference do all these things make do you think? 

 

 

I'm teaching a friend to grow - a bit like the blind leading the blind - and we've been using the Nutrifield A & B only. Funnily enough it never occurred to me to include anything other than Seasol.

 

Fortunately, today [after a bit of stoner forgetfulness] I remembered about the PK I had bought so she's going to add that in [at just under 6 weeks since flipping]

 

 

 

Sounds like we'd better lift our game!

 

 

Frank, do you add less of a & b to keep within normal ec levels? or work out the ec with just the nutes and then add the additives? if that makes any sense.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Frank Reynolds]

the only one i would say is 'needed' by the plant is silica. the only reason it's not most a+b's is potassium silicate the most common form does not mix and store well afaik. It is considered a micro nutrient needed by the plant, although usually plenty in mineral based soils(the ground) but none in hydro systems.

 

The humic/fulvic/seaweed isn't necessary. In fact nutri field has fulvic already added into their base nutrients. 

 

I haven't measured my ec in a very long time, i've found i dont need it as coco is a great buffer. Although i would only lower the base nutrients when adding pk.

 

So yeh, don't feel like you need to add any extras, in reality you will grow plants just fine with a simple a+b