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Dwc Bubbler Problems

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#21
Roadblock

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Hi

I wont disagree with you as your way works for you and my way works for me thats the beauty of all this , lots of methods work , but what you are saying is what this guy has already done and his plant is not good , best he try something else , if the plant is not turgid it is not going as good as it can go simple as that no matter what system or method you use its very important to get and keep the plants metabolism into go mode , you can use the best food on the market but if the plant isnt firing it isnt metabolising the nutes properly and probably creating nutrient block which inturn showing signs of stress and deficiencies which is not the nutrients fault .
Its like a young person can eat junk food all day long and show no signs of problems or weight gain because a young persons metabolic rate is fast and he just burns it up , give the same volume of junk food to a 60yr old and he will gain weight like crazy and prolly have a heart attack , his metobolic rate just carnt handle all the calories and energy density and if you keep feeding like this the body will create a state of nutrient block to protect itself from overdose of nutrients , its well known in medicine that you can create a vitamin deficiency by giving to much of that vitamin .

For every action there is a reaction , balance is the key and the whole hydroponic industry operates not with balance in mind , but the opposite , excess, it must create excess so people keep buying new super additives with amazing claims which most are really snake oils and do nothing for you

Purple on stems or veining , will come if the plants are cold , shocked or stressed and as you say nutrient deficiencies , people seem always to say its deficiencies first , I think the other two reasons are generally more the culprit most of the time when it happens .
Slight purple hue on the leaf stems is normal .

A friend of mine just introduced his clones into a greenhouse system and at the moment the night the temps are around 6 to 8 celius , those clones sat down and went purple basicly overnight , I told him to put a small heater in with them and run it 30min on 30min of from 7pm to 7am , they just took of and now have a purple band for the first 3 inches of the stem , and perfect color from that upwards , he also said he had a deficiency problem .

Its great to show this fella what is working I can also show pics of some beautiful plants grown by a totally different method than yours , but he needs to fix whatever is wrong with his system or method , if he just carries on doing what he is doing it wont fix itself .

Rod


Like I said I have not grown using bubblers , but wouldnt evaporation be lost through the pot -cage it self like the way a smoke stack works with the pot drawing like a tunnel because of the hotter temps outside the bubbler ?
I understand it would loose less moisture than a non closed system , but it sounded strange that a small sick plant in 22 degrees temps with a single 600watt light a mtre away would use much water at all .

Edited by Roadblock, 29 May 2004 - 01:10 PM.

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#22
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Here is are some examples of plants being in a nice state of turgid .

Variety -White Rhino
Age - 9 days to root in 75 ml rockwool cube , veged for 3 weeks and they are 3 weeks into a 8 week flower at the time of picture .

Rod

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#23
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and here .

Variety - Super
age - 8 days rooted in a 75 ml rockwool cube , 1 week veg and 2 days into flower as pic taken .

Lights in both pics been on about 30 minutes .

Rod

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#24
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well after 4 days away , it was turgid when i got back , so i watered with ph adjusted water , but a closer inspection of the roots , i see a clear fungus looking thing .i think im gunna pull it out and start again , some of the newer leaves had gone crunchy on the ends again !!!!

sigh
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#25
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why not feed it something for the roots? like oxyplus or pyrtheum.
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#26
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Hi

Mate dont turf it just yet as a few weeks now is faster than starting again and besides the first good step has happened so this plant will come good if it isnt diseased but it will prolly take a week or two , you got to now keep it at nice turgid state while the lights are on and its repairing , you do this with water management ,, barring disease only shock and or to much water will stop a plant from being turgid..

Like the other guy said there is probably nothing wrong with your system , but if your plant is in shock for whatever reason it dont matter what system you got it wont fire untill you kickstart its metabolism , big chance this is not a nutrient problem , from all you have said I reckon your plant went shockey along the line somewhere and with a 24/7 light cycle ,and inshock the demand on it was to much , once the plant its powering it can probably take all you can give it to a point , I personally do a 20hr veg and believe thay need some sleep time and the light of also resets the lights spectrum which supposedly drifts under continues burning ., but if you like 24/7 more power to you .

If you feed it and it drops its leaf set downward its saying it has not much root developement and the volume of water is drowning it for air , just back of your volume at the times you feed for a few days .

If it stay turged after feeding , give it a few days and start getting the light back over to it .

Keep it turged and the plant will kick of quite soon .

Like Ferengi said some oxyplus would be a wise move and if you stay in with recomended dosage you wont have a problem .

Just a question , is your reservoir completely light proof ?

Rod
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#27
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add oxyplus but i recommend half dose to start with.if bucket aint light proof you could be looking at your prob.mate dont rip them as if you dont find out prob with them then when you start again you might be asking these same things.mate its dwc you cant overwater unless air in bucket is insufficient or feeding from top is too much.mate the best thing would be if you could post pic.but it does now sound to me like overwatering.when this happens the first impression is to water it as it looks dry.i agree with roady but in veg i feel they do not need rest period.the only thing they really do in the dark is build hormones getting ready for the short light period.i have had a few probs with root rot and wilt and found the best thing to do is mix oxyplus at about 2/3 rec strength and hand water from top in any system until plants are looking up.lucian if roots are in water then dont water from top period and dose with oxyplus to kill any bacteria,fungus or pathigens that maybe in system as draining and flushing wont get rid of them.as i said though if you had pics it would be a bit easier.dont give up though as we all have failed and i have on many occasions but in the end you will succeed.also its a hydro system so when theres a prob dont add things like more ferts.

ps roady im not trying to get into a pissing comp mate i do agree with you on alot of things mainly what works for one dont work for another.
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#28
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if roots are in the water why are you watering it.when the roots are in the water in the bubbler do not water and do not under any circumstances spray the plant ever.if the roots are in the solution then never hand water it again as it is now feeding in the bubbler by its self.


these plants have not been watered by me since roots hit solution on about week 2 from seed.this is week 3.

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#29
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this is what roots should be looking like.

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#30
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well if thats week 3 from seed , im definatley gunna pull mine out as it looks nothing like that , mines a friggin bonzai compared to that and im at week 4 , i only have 12 roots , well none now .

Thanks to all for helping , but i might even go for dirt !
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