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White spots and yellowing leaves, dwc, outdoor PIC


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Well plants are Kali mist and Barneys farm LSD being grown in dwc in 50l buckets with about 25l/pm going into each bucket and roots are healthy. Fed on canna aqua, rhizotonic, and a dose of pk. Ph is always set between 5.9 & 6.1 and ppm of 1000 +-50. Water is tap water, less than 50 ppm, temps are between 17&22 deg c.

 

They seem to be growing well except for the leaves having these white spots on them and some of the leaves are yellowing and eventually shrivel up and die, the buds are forming well and have a nice coat of crystals already but looking at the leaves I'm sure I can get a bit more out of them. The LSD only has 2-3 weeks left but the Kali has about another 6 so would like to get on top of it if I can.

 

I added a pic of a few leaves to show what I mean.

 

Any help is much appreciated

post-33152-0-55941300-1395061243_thumb.jpg

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Best way to get rid of spider mites this late is drenching the pots with Mite-Rid, once or twice in a week, and just spray around floor of tent and grow area.

If you spray the buds, you stand a chance of them moulding. The withholding period on Mite rid is 2 weeks, so should be fine with the LSD as well.

Just do an extra good flush when they are finished.... just for good measure.

 

Nibbler.

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Nibbs, please have a look at the full brochure on Mite-Rid. http://mite-rid.com/Mite_Rid_brochure.pdf
 
There is an efficacy period of 14 days for two spotted and red spider mites, but this is not the same thing as a withholding period before consumption.
 
There is no stated withholding period for consumable crops because Mite-Rid is (and I quote) "suitable for all ornamental crops grown in either soil or hydroponic applications."

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Nibbs, please have a look at the full brochure on Mite-Rid. http://mite-rid.com/Mite_Rid_brochure.pdf

 

There is an efficacy period of 14 days for two spotted and red spider mites, but this is not the same thing as a withholding period before consumption.

 

There is no stated withholding period for consumable crops because Mite-Rid is (and I quote) "suitable for all ornamental crops grown in either soil or hydroponic applications."

WTF are you talking about woman? Did I say they were the same?  lol

 

The week of drench (well, seen as he is in DWC, he can do it in a few days), is to break the life cycle of the mites , then drain it all and refeed for two weeks and flush as per normal.

There is a withholding period for neem, it's just as Neem oil is not recognized for use on edible plants in Australia, the warning will never appear on the label.

Hence the ornamental crops bullshit. It is actually a week, I prefer 2 weeks.

 

It's used in plenty of countries around the world, no problems, It's just botanical oils and pressed neem that biodegrade easily.

 I been using it for 3 years, and it's the ONLY non toxic, non pesticidal mite killer that gets the job done first time.

I really don't like to use it close to harvest, but if the mites are taking over and you have no choice it is the lesser of a lot of evils.

 

 

Indoor/Outdoor really doesn't matter Tommo, you treat them the same. You may get a lil Neem oil coat the buckets, but it's ok, just slippery, and your almost there anyway.

Smoking weed full of mites sucks.

If you do nothing, or just squash them, they will breed too fast and take over, they breed SUPER fast and can turn a crop to shit easily. I have been there.

Spraying of any product in late flower will just increase the risk of mould, so is to be avoided. Hence the drenching or use in the resi.

 

Hope that helps. Nibs

Edited by The Hash Nibbler
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http://scarab.msu.montana.edu/YardGarden/docs/neem-insect.htm

............................................

 

Neem has little effect when applied directly on insects, except in the oil formulations; most insects are affected only after consuming foliage that has been treated.  Neem is most effective as a foliar spray applied periodically to new flushes of growth.  On some species of plants neem also works as a systemic pesticide, absorbed into the plant and carried throughout the tissues, ingested by insects when they feed on the plant.  This may make it effective against certain foliage-feeders that cannot be reached with spray applications, such as leafminers and thrips.  Neem has some systemic activity when applied as a foliar spray, but it seems to work best as a systemic when applied as a soil drench, absorbed by the plant roots.  It is not known how effective neem soil drenches are for larger ornamentals and trees, so drenches are usually recommended for smaller plants.  Alkaline soils, such as we have in most of Montana, reduce the effectiveness of neem drenches.  Neem products such as Azatin, Align, Turplex contain 3% azadiractin, the active ingredient in neem.  This is the highest concentration among neem products currently available, but these products are often difficult to find.  BioNeem, Neemix, and others, all contain less than 1% of the active ingredient.  

 

 

References:

Cranshaw, W.  1995.  Management Recommendations for Insect Pests of Trees and Shrubs.  Colorado State Univ, Ft. Collins, CO.   Extension publication XCM-38.  78 pp.

Flint, M.L.  1990.  Pests of the Garden and Small Farm.  University of California.  Oakland, CA  94608- 1239.  Pub. #3332.  276 pp.

The IPM Practitioner.  Bio-Integral Resource Center.  Berkeley, CA  94707. 

Olkowski, W., S. Daar, and H. Olkowski.  1991.  Common-Sense Pest Control; Least-toxic Solutions for Your Home, Garden, Pets and Community.  Taunton Press, Newtown, Connecticut. 715 pp. 

Written by Sherry Lajeunesse, Extension Urban Pest Management Specialist.  Sept., 1997

Date: 12/03/2001

Categories: Neem, Botanical insecticide

 

That's what Sherry reckons anyway.

 

Naycha :peace:

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Yup, it does, at least Mite rid does, I have dosed plants with drenches and no spraying, and ridded them of mites in two applications. The mix has a systemic nature that allows the active ingredients to remain active in the plant for about 7 days until they degrade.

I prefer to use it as a preventative measure in Veg, and stop in mid-late flower if possible or no outbreaks.

 

Nibs.

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