Silver Thiosulphate STS not working

[Swamp403]

They r about 3weeks. I've got 2 in there 1 has been treated & 1 hasn't

The 1 that has been treated has only got a couple of white hairs. The other has little buds

I just had a look & not sure, but it may have little balls forming

Maybe I'm a bit impatient

It's looking pretty sick, but not sick enough to die.

[Naycha]

Yer Naycha

I mixed .5 silver nitrate into 500ml of distilled water.

Then mixed the 2.5g of thiosulphate into 500ml of distilled water

Then I mixed the silver nitrate sulusion into the thiosulphate sul mixing rapidly

Then I put 100ml of that into 900ml of dis water to make a litter

Then started spraying when light is off

 

Cheers for the reply.

 

Just to clarify, are you using sodium thiosulphate? There are other types of thiosulphates.

 

I haven't calculated your ratios but on the face of it it looks like they may be out of whack.

 

This is how I would prepare STS solution (I'll remind you I haven't done this).

 

 

Prepare a 0.1 M Sodium Thiosulfate (STS) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of Sodium Thiosulfate into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 M Silver Nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of Silver Nitrate  into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solutions in the dark until needed to prepare the STS.

   

In general, the STS is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of

[Ag(S₂O₃)₂]^3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.

 

    Prepare a 0.02 M STS by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 M silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 M sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The STS can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the STS just prior to use is recommended.

 

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/life-science/molecular-biology/plant-biotechnology/tissue-culture-protocols/silver-thiosulfate.html

 

Naycha

[-RiverRat-]

Now we're getting somewhere.... Reckon you can post up some pics?

[Swamp403]

If it doesn't work ill try mix to ur ratios Naycha

I searched all over the net & the ratios I have used seem to be the most common one

I'll give it another week

No ill mix it ur way tonight sounds like u know what ur talking about when it comes to chemistry

I don't

Thanks for ur help.

[Swamp403]

I can't post any pics my phones camera is stuffed

I'll c what I can do but.

[Train Wreck]

Anyway I've been treating 1 plant for about 4 weeks & another one for 2 weeks. The first one I thought maybe it was turned to early before treating. .

So I put another female into veg, & started spraying her as well

I thought you were only meant to spray your entire plant once, really well, until runoff occurs ?

You spray them just before you intend to flower them, don't spray them at all in veg.

They are meant to look sick and recover after a week or 2

Maybe the constant treatments are causing a toxicity level to build up, and you are not letting them recover ?

You should have male flower in 3 to 4 weeks from treatment.

[louise]

If it doesn't work ill try mix to ur ratios Naycha

Nay is on the money with how to accurately mix the stock solutions...

 

I searched all over the net & the ratios I have used seem to be the most common one

There is a lot of bad information floating around the net that gets copied and copied and copied... especially in relation to weed.

 

Granted I am no silver expert... have only used silver treatments on cut flowers prior to freighting.

[Swamp403]

I DID NOT SPRAY IT IN VEG I wanted to start again so I took a young plant that was just starting to flower & put it into veg until there were no sighns of sex

Then I put it under 12/12 & started treatment

 

Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

 

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

 

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

 

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

 

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution ( while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

 

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

 

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

 

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

 

Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

 

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

 

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

 

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

 

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

[Swamp403]

I really don't care if this takes me 6 months to work out ill do it

The reason I've started every second day is after a fortnight there were white hairs appearing

Now I'm pretty sure there r balls forming

I'll try get a cheap camera next time I go to town

Nearly every post I've read said the plant will look sick then come back

[Naycha]

You're correct that the plant will look sick then recover.

 

The method I intend to use only treated the apical meristem of the plant (the main tip).

 

100 micrograms was the most effective dose.

 

Naycha