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hey lou, sorry this is a bit late, hopefully not too late but i would say that she has a zinc def.

 

its definitely not MG as that would start at the bottom of the plant. the fact it is starting in the new tips says its not mobile. also it looks as though vertical growth has slowed and the new shoots are stunted and small and tightly bunched together. that sort of says zinc to me.

 

i could be wrong but it would be worth looking into if you want to save her.

 

otherwise maybe broad mites? i doubt it though since its just the one and i wouldnt wish that on anyone. i have ever had them but i hear they are nasty buggers

 Yeah the leaves do (at one stage) resemble Zn def ie. green centre with a fringe of yellow... sort of looks like someone has run around the edges of the leaf with a fluoro marker. Thing is the yellow disappears as the leaves get older and as I said earlier, I am not familiar with any deficiency that rectifies itself without adding in the missing mineral.

 

No mites either, or fungus gnats or any other garden livestock.

 

If they have any Blueberry in them, I would say your E.C. is way to high @ 1.8.

Blueberry strains are very light feeders.

They are definately having trouble getting Nitrogen.

 

I have to say it thou, looks like your PH is WAY out. How long since you checked the calibration of your ph meter.

 

What does your nutrient consist of to get it @ 1.8 in Veg?

 

The plants are in transition, not veg Buzzo. Currently 10 days into 12/12. When I first noticed the problem the plants were getting ec 1.4 and it has been raised incrementally over the weeks to prevent yellowing of the lower leaves. I have to agree with Nay's comment on ec... the rest of the plants are looking sweet.

 

With regard to pH, I clean the probes and check calibration at the end of each month... so it's 3 weeks since the last calibration test which was spot on (no drift) and the last battery change was 2 months ago.

 

I do intend to do a core sample later today so I can get an accurate idea of the pH inside the pot.

 

 

edit ~ I know it looks like I am just knocking all your efforts on the head, it's just that I had already eliminated everything I could think of before posting. I do appreciate the efforts though, so thanks again guys. lou :gardening:

Edited by louise
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Yeah the leaves do (at one stage) resemble Zn def ie. green centre with a fringe of yellow... sort of looks like someone has run around the edges of the leaf with a fluoro marker. Thing is the yellow disappears as the leaves get older and as I said earlier, I am not familiar with any deficiency that rectifies itself without adding in the missing mineral.

 

No mites either, or fungus gnats or any other garden livestock.

 

 

 

The plants are in transition, not veg Buzzo. Currently 10 days into 12/12. When I first noticed the problem the plants were getting ec 1.4 and it has been raised incrementally over the weeks to prevent yellowing of the lower leaves. I have to agree with Nay's comment on ec... the rest of the plants are looking sweet.

 

With regard to pH, I clean the probes and check calibration at the end of each month... so it's 3 weeks since the last calibration test which was spot on (no drift) and the last battery change was 2 months ago.

 

I do intend to do a core sample later today so I can get an accurate idea of the pH inside the pot.

 

 

edit ~ I know it looks like I am just knocking all your efforts on the head, it's just that I had already eliminated everything I could think of before posting. I do appreciate the efforts though, so thanks again guys. lou :gardening:

No offense taken lou. Every now and then something pops up that stumps every one. I agree that it isnt e.c im not seeing any signs of over ferting. I would take that core sample and see what it says. In the mean tim e I would have a crack at treating for zinc. I know it was one of your first guesses too so its probably worth a shot. Not saying im definitely right but without a better theory what else can you do?

 

Please keep us Informed how it turns out whatever you do it has my interest peaked because you just never know when something like this might pop up I your own garden

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Looks like Iron Deficiency

 

Canna Coco A & B has no iron in it like a lot of other nutes.

Generally there is enough Iron in the tap water, if you are using RO water and only Canna Coco A & B

this could be the problem.

Low nutrient temperature will also inhibit Iron uptake.

 

Grotek's Calmax has iron in it. Might be worth a try.

In this case I would use it at 1 ml per liter for a couple of weeks, then drop down to 0.5ml.

 

Using it 1 ml per liter for any extended period and you will reach the Calcium bufffer limit in the Coco

and cause even more problems.

Edited by buzzo
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Result of core sampling - pH 6.2. Can't really complain about that... rechecked meter calibration, pH was spot on, ec meter was reading a little high so the last feed was more like ec 1.65 rather than ec 1.8.

 

Looks like Iron Deficiency

 

Canna Coco A & B has no iron in it like a lot of other nutes.

Generally there is enough Iron in the tap water, if you are using RO water and only Canna Coco A & B

this could be the problem.

Low nutrient temperature will also inhibit Iron uptake.

 

Grotek's Calmax has iron in it. Might be worth a try.

In this case I would use it at 1 ml per liter for a couple of weeks, then drop down to 0.5ml.

 

Using it 1 ml per liter for any extended period and you will reach the Calcium bufffer limit in the Coco

and cause even more problems.

I doubt it's Fe, ok the leaves emerge bleached, but that is where any similarity to Fe deficiency ends.

 

If it were an Fe deficiency the young growth would turn pale green, then begin to yellow between the veins beginning at the petiole. As the condition progressed, more leaves would begin to yellow and, if left untreated, the leaves would develop necrotic patches and then drop.

 

As I have said before, the leaves on my plant start out bleached but do eventually green up of their own accord.

 

On the matter of Canna Coco.... yes, it does contain small amounts of chelated iron as Fe-DTPA and Fe-EDDHA. These chelates mean that some iron remains available in solution up to pH 11.

 

Some cheaper nutrients use Fe-EDTA, in this form iron is relatively unavailable above pH 6.5 and has high affinity to calcium. Both DTPA and EDDHA are resistant to replacement by calcium.

 

And finally, I use tap water, ec 0.0-0.1, pH 5.5-7.2 depending on seasonal changes to the water level in the dam.

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So here we are a few days later...

 

post-20731-0-39297300-1374916230_thumb.jpg

 

There are a few canoed leaves on what were the most affected branches... that's definitely my fault... mixed up the feeds and this plant got a strong green feed that was meant for my revegging kush cross.

 

Apart from that, the colour is returning to the growing tips of the plant and the leaf structure is improving.

 



 

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