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Guerilla growing: a dodgy how to.


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Deciding to grow indoors or outdoors can be tricky. I have long struggled with the issues of both. Growing indoors carries the risk of the plants always being present in my home. An outdoor grow causes concern because of the fear of animals, insects, police, or others finding my grow. Both have their pros and cons. So far I have only grown indoors, but I have been seriously considering a guerilla grow because of the fear of having plants in my home. It very quickly becomes a felony in order to grow enough just for a head stash. My concerns outdoors are just as strong as growing inside, but again for various other reasons, but also including other people. I appreciate the thread. It has been an incredibly useful and informative post.

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everyone has there own thoughts but to me it comes down to 2 basic things 

1- water, it can be hard to carry a trailer load of water to a location, without leaving a track, there are ways around this, like growing in a wet spot or if needed plant in shallow hole,s and run( berry ) tubing to near a track, so you could gravity feed water at night, or when ever, if you walked the water in, carrying as much water as you can, its almost impossible not leaving a track while carrying heavy loads,and loosing your footing, through heavy loads,

2-making the site look natural, sometimes its not always weed that indicates a grow site, its plastic drums laying around, i once seen plots found because of  plants grown in lines, which do not usually appear in nature, and another crop that was heavely  mulched with straw, its spun out, but it looked much different from the air, the straw made it look more planted than  natural,   what i do is put a few to many plants in 5x5 fot plots, and they hang out like a wild stand, it looks more of a wild stand than a cultivated spot, also some times you dont need fencing, i left WA and in over 20 years never lost any plants to animals, but in the state i know reside, fencing is mandatory, lots more work, and looks much more unnatural, which means it stands out more, i paint the wire green, but is much more work again,   if i pick a spot, i always grow a plant or two outside the fence, to see if the fence is needed

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Thanks reflux I agree on number one about making tracks , I just started to make 4 plots in different locations, one of mine even went out of my way to crawl up already tracks made buy wombats . Creeks must be close also being perfect water for the plants , plot shuld be located in a spot where they get long sun hours , I cart my own soil in haven't found a spot with decent soil yet. Plenty of compost and additives to the soil to make sure there constantly getting nutes. And pests I've only been eaten bye rock wallabies in one spot that was up a hill , my other spots that in little gullys have rabbi it's kangaroos all around them but are uninflected thanks for the thread things that helped
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sounds like your on to it bro, in my opinion, the best way to condition soil is with hydro mediums, as in perlite - vermiculite, if you buy in 100 litre

sacks, it makes a lot of aerated soil, I mean one is made to hold air (perlite) and a bit of water, the other is designed to hold water and air (vermiculite)

and where I live its only 45-$50 per sack, and best of all, its very light to carry,

one more thing that might help, I found out some time ago, that drive in car washing stations, use large amounts of cleaning solutions, and near me you can buy

200 litre plastic drums for $50, so if growing near a creek, you could drill holes in the drum,

for tubing, and paint the drum green, and run drip emitters and keep visits down to once a month, or even longer, with a couple of buckets or 12v pump, to top up the drums, its got to work hay, one more thing that might help, is if the creek is not to deep, its a great way to get to your location as the water washes away your tracks instantly, its a sure way of not leaving tracks, but most of all do anything to not go there, the more visits the more chances of being ripped off

isolated spot are not isolated, if there are people constantly attending the crops

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everyone has there own way, and im sure every different tec has a place somewhere, but the question here is what makes a good mix for a remote spot, to me its a ph adjusted aerated mix,  we all know hydro mediums have a neutral ph, and are so effective because there tailor made for plants needs, and if you use chem ferts and some lime all there needs are met  you see faster grow rates with hydro mediums than other methods  and they also do better out bush to, which brings my post to the great debate, to grow organic, or chem, i would answer this in three ways

 

1-a nitrate molecule which is better the same molecule from a test tube or a turd, well  you already know what i would rather, fuc# the turd, end of the day its the same molecule anyway 

 

2-the other debate which is best for plants, well there is no question organics hold some great quality's, to me they help with plant health, and no question it is true, but plant health is never a problem in a nutrient rich aerated ph adjusted mix, as all there needs are met, just like they are in a hydro set up

.

3- nutrient release rate, with organics microbes breaking down the organics fert over time, and therefor releases a constant   feed over the season, where chem ferts release over time from different time release membranes, so if you wanted a constant feed, you would use 1 third fast release, 1 third medium release, and 1 third slow release, and no special skills needed, where organics require  at least some skills, a lot people  who has tried organics  report varied success, at first, where the same people using chem ferts, have more garenteed release rates, i beleave organics nute release rates, are more complex, with more variables, as temps, water, PH,  air, levels in the mix, impacts more in how  organics are, broken down, when buying organics, how do you know how broken down each bag is, as how broken down it is determent release rates, to a new grower i think chem ferts and hydro mixes are more garenteed with less skill needed, and all up are better suited to remote growing, i think a 100 liter sack of hydro mix, will condition much more soil than $50 worth of anything else, and is 100x lighter to carry to. to sum up im not saying other methods are better, everyone has there own way that works for them, and why change if its working well, this is what i do and ive hopefully explained why i think its more suited for a remote spot

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