Aussie's Outdoor Super Soil Recipe

[budboy73m]

Hey all,

 

Attached is my contribution to this topic.

 

The super soil spread sheet has mainly used locally sourced items as well as estimated costs.

 

I'm looking for feedback especially if anyone knows of any easily sourced ingredients.

 

Its handy because all I have to do is enter the amount and size of pots then the sheet does the rest for me and even estimates a cost.

 

 

Budboy`s Aussie Super Soil Mix Sheet.pdf

 

If anyone would like a copy of the spreadsheet just send me a message.

Edited February 3, 2017 by budboy73m

[DrBlueThumb]

Definitely doing this with my garden patch for next season Is it a good idea to cover up with a tarp?

 

Posted from the OZ Stoners mobile app

[budboy73m]

Subcool`s method involves wrapping up in a tarp or storing in a container to cook.

 

I believe the key is to keep moist to encourage the micro biology.

[Steve Green]

Hey all,

 

Attached is my contribution to this topic.

 

The super soil spread sheet has mainly used locally sourced items as well as estimated costs.

 

I'm looking for feedback especially if anyone knows of any easily sourced ingredients.

 

Its handy because all I have to do is enter the amount and size of pots then the sheet does the rest for me and even estimates a cost.

 

 

Budboy`s Aussie Super Soil Mix Sheet.pdf

 

If anyone would like a copy of the spreadsheet just send me a message.

Hi budboy, thanks for the post. I've been looking at the original subcool supersoil in dismay trying to work out where to find half those ingredients so this is a big help. Just had a couple questions if you wouldn't mind.

 

Is that spread sheet to make the super soil that would essentially make up the 1/3 base of the pot?

 

If so, does the remaining 2/3 get made up of the base soil mix in the top section less the amendments? (I'm a noob so apologies if these are stupid questions)

 

Struggling to find a Aussie supplier for the mycorrhizal fungi, however when reading up on it I came across this (http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/-does-mushroom-compost-serve-the-same-function-as-mycorrhizae-.html) article which mentions that the fungi doesn't live in compost but only with the roots:

 

"The type of mycorrhizal fungi that work with most of the veggies and fruits you are likely growing in your garden only reproduce when they are in a partnership with the roots of a live host plant. They do not live or reproduce in compost of any kind though a few might survive the composting process"

 

Would this mean adding it to the composting mix would be a waste?

 

The article points to this website as a supplier https://www.maiaustralia.com.au that has a product for about $40 for a kg bag and has the following description:

 

"The powder comes in a particle size of 250 microns or less. This concentrated, fine material works for spray or seed coating applications. The goal is to place the spores together or in close contact to the plant roots. The Mycorrhiza expands into the surrounding soil to greatly increase the roots ability to absorb and recycle water and nutrients, thus improving germination, transplant success, flowering and plant health. This efficiency gain typically allows a reduction or 1/3 to 1/2 of traditional fertiliser inputs."

 

It again indicates application directly to the roots (or seeds). Does that mean that adding to a composting mix might be a waste and it might actually be better adding the fungi to the base soil mix right before it's being used? Just something to get any thoughts or experience from yourself or anyone in the forum.

 

If you had a reliable source (eBay or otherwise) you could point me to better than the above option that would be great!

 

Thanks again for your post, I'd love a copy of the spread sheet if you wouldn't mind? Cheers, you legend.

[pedro de pacas]

Dirt's the only thing I know how to grow in ,you bloke's complicate it to much

I don't bother planting til late Nov/Dec outside the bloody things grow so quick

Last dirt in pots I did, got a few shovels of dirt out of the garden threw in a cup of blood and bone a cup of dynamic lifter 1/4 cup sulphate of potash mixed it together and threw a seedling in watered it all in with kelp

one pot only had the mix in the bottom half, and yes all plants had burnt tips for the first few weeks till it all mellowed out,

grew them for 4 weeks and headed for 8 weeks+

only used kelp concentrate once a week and water

 

Will be going back to dirt next time after a quick flirt with other shit

Just as quick and plentiful as hydro and a dam sight easier

 

Not bagging anyone else's work grows or soil

 

 

Edited March 8, 2017 by kickarse

[budboy73m]

Hi budboy, thanks for the post. I've been looking at the original subcool supersoil in dismay trying to work out where to find half those ingredients so this is a big help. Just had a couple questions if you wouldn't mind.

 

Is that spread sheet to make the super soil that would essentially make up the 1/3 base of the pot?

 

If so, does the remaining 2/3 get made up of the base soil mix in the top section less the amendments? (I'm a noob so apologies if these are stupid questions)

 

Struggling to find a Aussie supplier for the mycorrhizal fungi, however when reading up on it I came across this (http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/-does-mushroom-compost-serve-the-same-function-as-mycorrhizae-.html) article which mentions that the fungi doesn't live in compost but only with the roots:

 

"The type of mycorrhizal fungi that work with most of the veggies and fruits you are likely growing in your garden only reproduce when they are in a partnership with the roots of a live host plant. They do not live or reproduce in compost of any kind though a few might survive the composting process"

 

Would this mean adding it to the composting mix would be a waste?

 

The article points to this website as a supplier https://www.maiaustralia.com.au that has a product for about $40 for a kg bag and has the following description:

 

"The powder comes in a particle size of 250 microns or less. This concentrated, fine material works for spray or seed coating applications. The goal is to place the spores together or in close contact to the plant roots. The Mycorrhiza expands into the surrounding soil to greatly increase the roots ability to absorb and recycle water and nutrients, thus improving germination, transplant success, flowering and plant health. This efficiency gain typically allows a reduction or 1/3 to 1/2 of traditional fertiliser inputs."

 

It again indicates application directly to the roots (or seeds). Does that mean that adding to a composting mix might be a waste and it might actually be better adding the fungi to the base soil mix right before it's being used? Just something to get any thoughts or experience from yourself or anyone in the forum.

 

If you had a reliable source (eBay or otherwise) you could point me to better than the above option that would be great!

 

Thanks again for your post, I'd love a copy of the spread sheet if you wouldn't mind? Cheers, you legend.

 

I want to be clear here. I am just like you trying to Australianize Subcool`s recipe and by no means am I an expert. 

 

Good questions though.

 

You are right.

 

- The base soil + amendments make up the super soil (1/3 @ the base of the pot).

- the base soil without amendments make up the top 2/3 of the pot.

- IMO the compost in the mix is the most critical item. The idea is to not only have nutrient rich soil but to have living soil. I made a large batch of this stuff out on may pavement which has been sitting for three months now. I potted some up and found worms in there which for me was a farking awesome sign. If your soil is living the fungi will live and grow as well. Again.....I am no expert but adding the fungi to the compost is the way I would tend to go.

[budboy73m]

Dirt's the only thing I know how to grow in ,you bloke's complicate it to much

I don't bother planting til late Nov/Dec outside the bloody things grow so quick

Last dirt in pots I did, got a few shovels of dirt out of the garden threw in a cup of blood and bone a cup of dynamic lifter 1/4 cup sulphate of potash mixed it together and threw a seedling in watered it all in with kelp

one pot only had the mix in the bottom half, and yes all plants had burnt tips for the first few weeks till it all mellowed out,

grew them for 4 weeks and headed for 8 weeks+

only used kelp concentrate once a week and water

 

Will be going back to dirt next time after a quick flirt with other shit

Just as quick and plentiful as hydro and a dam sight easier

 

Not bagging anyone else's work grows or soil

 

I guess like all things to do with cannabis cultivation, people want to see how far they can push the plant.

 

I agree with you that a K.I.S.S. approach will always work, same as the 80/20 rule but there are some of us who like putting in 80% more work even if it is for only 20% more gain.

[Steve Green]

I want to be clear here. I am just like you trying to Australianize Subcool`s recipe and by no means am I an expert. 

 

Good questions though.

 

You are right.

 

- The base soil + amendments make up the super soil (1/3 @ the base of the pot).

- the base soil without amendments make up the top 2/3 of the pot.

- IMO the compost in the mix is the most critical item. The idea is to not only have nutrient rich soil but to have living soil. I made a large batch of this stuff out on may pavement which has been sitting for three months now. I potted some up and found worms in there which for me was a farking awesome sign. If your soil is living the fungi will live and grow as well. Again.....I am no expert but adding the fungi to the compost is the way I would tend to go.

Understand mate and thanks for your help. That's exciting about the worms too, sounds like your mix is firing along perfectly.

 

 

 

Dirt's the only thing I know how to grow in ,you bloke's complicate it to much

I don't bother planting til late Nov/Dec outside the bloody things grow so quick

Last dirt in pots I did, got a few shovels of dirt out of the garden threw in a cup of blood and bone a cup of dynamic lifter 1/4 cup sulphate of potash mixed it together and threw a seedling in watered it all in with kelp

one pot only had the mix in the bottom half, and yes all plants had burnt tips for the first few weeks till it all mellowed out,

grew them for 4 weeks and headed for 8 weeks+

only used kelp concentrate once a week and water

 

Will be going back to dirt next time after a quick flirt with other shit

Just as quick and plentiful as hydro and a dam sight easier

 

Not bagging anyone else's work grows or soil

Yeah mate, probably over complicating it. Just have some mates in US that recommended the subcool mix and are having great results so was trying to get something as close as possible going (for my indoor tent). My first run was a small dwc grow and I was happy with the result but there was some serious fkn around involved so the idea of an organic medium (and finished product) that just requires only water from start to finish is very appealing. As I mentioned I'm a noob so really just trying to learn, appreciate your input mate.

[Steve Green]

 

This was the first crack

[pedro de pacas]

Got 6 meters of soil coming from the local garden centre, going to make it into some kickarse "super soil"

 

Ingredient's so far

2 wheelbarrows cow shit

2 wheelbarrows sheep shit

4 wheelbarrows chook shit/bedding

4 wheelbarrows of horse shit

20 kg kelp

20 kg blood and bone

20 kg dynamic lifter

2 kilo sulphate of potash

1 bucket of granite dust

Worms' got them everywhere

Probably some other stuff haven't thought about yet

 

This is for the fruit and veggie garden as well

 

Cost $400-450 all up, last did this about 15 years ago, grows anything

 

And not a thing from them thieving stnuc at bunnings