Ozone generatores for odor control

[Jett54]

Hi all,

 

I am wanteing everyones experience when it comes to using ozone for odor control. I know many of you swear by carbon filters and they are good, but in my particular circumstance I have a carbon filter in my tent (1.2x1.2x2) and another carbon filter with fan in the room the tent is in so the tent is pressure neg, and the room the tent is in is also pressure neg. So the air has to clear 2 filters (small and larger one) before being expelled out of a second floor window. The Carbon filters are 6 months old.

 

I am still having some odor issues in the air being vented, on a still day (no breez) you can catch an odor when drying and from week 5 on wards. No I believe that as the humidity in the tent rises to about 75%-80% this must be affecting carbon filter #1 in the chamber. the second one should no be affect but seems that it is.

 

now to the solutions:

 

I have a 8W and 20W wall mounted ozone gen as well as a 250cm inline ozone gen, so I was thinking of avoiding using the wall mounted units as I am worried about the helth effects as well as killing the plants and not sure how to calculate how long to put it on or off and which one (8W or 20W) to use. I was considering attaching the inline gen as the last peidce of cucting before it attached to the window (still using carbon filters).

Will this work?

Would it be better to insert it further back in the system (venting) so it can mix with more air?

[merl1n]

Hi Jett,

I use ozone for odour. Now many here will tell you not to use it. There are two problems with it.

1. You can't have the generator in the grow space the UV light stuffs up the plants light cycle

2. The ozone is a poisonous gas. Lets talk layman science for a bit. the oxygen we breathe is O2, two oxygen molecules. Ozone is O3 three molecules of oxygen. When we breathe in oxygen O2 it oxidizes and kills off cells in the body. O3 does this quicker. O2 is considered fairly stable, O3 is not, that extra O wants to piss off and join up with something else. This is why its good for odours cos it pisses off and joins to the odour oxidizing and killing it off. Now again this is very laymans terms but basically that's how it works.

 

Now I've used two different types, one was an electrical spark generator which worked not too badly. It could be used in the room itself as the spark generated the ozone and not a UV light, although the smell was reduced it wasn't gone. Now I had this little unit sitting ontop of my exhaust fan and when the fan turned on so did the geny, so the ozone was being pushed straight out of the room to a duct to a vent outside the shed. The problem was that I wasn't giving the ozone enough time to work before pushing it outside. I read up somewhere that its much better to have a baffled box for the air to move thru to stir it and the ozone and allow the ozone to work. Another way was to vent the ozone into the shed then vent the shed seperately, which is what I did. It was all working a treat. Then the filth turned up. DIRTY BASTARDS.

 

The next Ozone geny I got was the inline UV light job. had it vented through ducting but the UV light escaped into the grow space and stuffed that crop. So I ducted in the room about 6 ft, then a duct outside the room again about 6 ft, then connected the geny then another 6ft duct no light escapes now, that's for sure. The space in my shed allows the ozone to work and no pot can be smelt at all. But I need time to vent the shed before I can go in as the ozone is so overpowering.

 

Now in your case I think the baffles would work better. It could be easily done with 4-5 polystyrene fruit boxes with lids, stacked up.

 

Hope it helps

Merl1n

[Jett54]

Hmmmm....

thanks for all the info, its kinda what I got from reading online, but you helped by spelling it out for me:) Im thinking the best option is going to be an inline ozone gen. I had not considered or even heard of a baffled box, but I think that that will be the way to go and now that I think about it, it makes total sense. I will have to ponder a few days on how to construct one as my brain is running a little slow at the moment:).

 

Curious about 2 parts of your posts, your running 600W HPS? 4 of them? How much space is each covering? I have 2 X 600's in cool tubes in a 1.2x1.2x2....do you think that is overkill?? I have previously used 1 x 1000w in the same space and noticed little difference. Should I stick with the 2 x 600's go back to a 1000W or just use 1 x 600. All digital

 

Aslo the filth, how many ladies did they find and what was the outcome for you?? Ad Im guessing your location in a galaxy far far away in somewhere in OZ just so I know if your experience would be relevant to me!

 

Cheers Merl1n

[merl1n]

Hi Jett

The baffled box is really easy to make. Your local greengrocer gets some of their produce in polystyrene boxes with lids, obtain 4-5. Here is a quick mud map

The blue bits are pieces of cardboard. Make sure that they are on opposite sides of the box so the air has to stir around to escape. You could put more baffles(cardboard) in if you wanted but if you stack 4-5 boxes, each baffled, you probably wouldn't have to just be sure the holes from one box to the other line up.

 

As for my setup, I have a 3m x 3m x 3m room, my lights are on a straight bar with a bearing in the middle. This way I can move my lights around. Originally I had them fixed but found there were areas that weren't getting optimal light and moving them helps with this. As for your lights being overkill I recommend you go to Cannaversity where there is a calculator that has light vs room size vs ventilation. Is your 1000w HPS or MH?

 

When the filth came to visit was years ago and now the laws have changed. I'm not in your state but at the time I got an on the spot fine ($150) for 2 ladies. The bastards took everything except the room. I told them that it was for medical purposes (with proof ie xrays, MRI scans) and they allowed me to keep my dry (about 1/2 a 10ltr bucket full). Now I would be looking at going to court and all the fun that entails.

 

Merl1n

[nici]

Hey Merl1n great idea with the baffle box You could also get the same results with less effort by just slowing down the rate at which the ozone air exits the ducting by stuffing a few different pieces of foam inside. This creates turbulence (gives the air time to mix) and muffles the sound of the fan at the same time.

[merl1n]

Hi Nici,

Creating turbulance will mix the air but it won't allow time for the O3 to react fully with the odour, which is what we want, especially if it is being exhausted direct to an external vent.

 

Merl1n

[Jett54]

Hey Merlin,

 

I am using HPS for flowering and I used 6400K blue CFL's for vegging and clones for about 6-8 weeks. I blast them with a 600W MH for about 7 days if I need them to grow a bit faster I will check out the canneversary as soon as I finish this post! Another option I was considering is running an inline oz gen where the air is sucked into my cool tube, so it then has to psas through the cool tube and then through about 1.5 M of ducting with 2 45 degree bends in the ducting to the window. My concerns are:

- will the O3 affect my lamps and houding

-will it give enouigh distance to allowe for the O3 to fully react as you mentioned in the above post

 

Any way can't wait tio hear back

 

PS

Just finished drying and am very pleased with my results this time, unlike lsat time where i burnt my ladies 10 days before harvest (you can see the tragedy on my post :help I burnt my plants")

[merl1n]

Hi Jett

I don't want to put you wrong, so to be honest, I have no idea of the effect on your lamp or houding. Others may have more info.

But why do you want to put the O3 before the lamp? You want it to clean the air going out, not whats coming in. My concern would be the UV light getting to the cooltube and that UV getting to the plant.

If you still used the baffle idea the O3 should have adequate time to react though.

 

Merl1n

[STONEDAJ69]

DO NOT run ozone - ified air over your globes and such.

 

It will cause the metal bulb cap and lamp bulb holder to (I want to say corrode but it's more like ultra quick rust)

[Cerberus]

DO NOT run ozone - ified air over your globes and such.

 

It will cause the metal bulb cap and lamp bulb holder to (I want to say corrode but it's more like ultra quick rust)

 

oxidise? is that what you meant?