what shit is best?

[bush billy]

high peoples

coupla quick questios for yas, i'm gonna throw a couple of extra plots in and intend to grow it gorilla style which leads me to my questions. what are the best turd to mix into the soil? i have access to horse, cow goat chicken and duck shit oh and pig. whats the minimum water requiements for gorilla style should i throw in some water crystals. i heard that crystal tend to make it taste a bit plasticy.

anxiouly waiting your replies

yeah luke skywalker some yummy f1 skunkies

[Mr Nice Guy]

I've heard chicken shit is the best from a experienced outdoor grower..... Try water crystals mate they are cheap and you can get them at big w

[Ozzy420]

hey there bush billy just about any of that poo will do as long as it is not to freash as it can burn ya plants when doing out doors i have used chook poo, with the water crystal as far as i know thay dont give any tast to ya plants, when i have done out doors i use to get a dead chook and put in the bottom of the hole and found that is all i had to do instead of giveing ferts,with watering it can depend on how hot it is on how much u have to give a drink but about once a week give them a good water or u could set up some sort of simple water system like getting some thing that will hold a bit of water and have it sitting up hill form ya plants and runing a hose from it down to ya plants with a few drippers at the base of each plant and thay will water then selfs all u have to do then it top up ya water tank when it runs low, i hope this has given u a few idears and i am sure a few of the other members here will be able to give u a few more idears and anything eals u want to know just ask that is what we are for

[Guest Wilderbud]

AFAIK theyre all weak until composted. Id rather mix blood and bone or something else to supply trace elements, Urea tea for a Nitrogen boost during growth [theres nothing else thatll boost N to over 10 without affecting PK IMO] and Bat Guano or Potash tea for boosting flower production. If you mix too much fertilizer into your soil before you start you can stunt the growth which is why I like the liquid boosters [once a month is plenty but a urea boost after one month of growth and potash boost during flowering is all you really need so guerilla-on].

 

Im trying straight trace elements [via citrus food as I couldnt find trace element salts at the time], urea and potash for now as they were easier to carry and my plant seems to enjoy it even though I mixed it right into the soil [no nute burn or slow growth].

 

If you want to go with cow/horse/rabbit shit then add the Urea straight up to get a decent rate of vegetative growth - they should be good for providing trace elements and they airate the soil so use it if you like it [i would use it again but only if it was composted]. Worm castings is another medium that can be used to add trace elements to soil - its a weak fertilizer also so its a good starting point.

 

PS. dont overdo liquid feeds.

[bush billy]

thanks for the replies comrades,

ozmade- i have tried putting a dead chook in a couple of holes but by the next day a whole cage woth had been destroyed by dingoes. the bastards dug clean under the wire. live'n learn ay.

wilder bud- thanks for the tips. how do you make urea and potash tea? how and how often do you apply?

ooroo for now

[Guest Wilderbud]

how do you make urea and potash tea?  how and how often do you apply?

Urea tea? piss in a bottle of water - just kidding but thats basically what it is.

 

Both of those are salts which you can buy for a few bucks and theyll last you ages - theyre both water soluble so making a tea is as simple as dissolving the recommended amount of salts in water.

 

PS. I have to revise what I know about NPK as the MJ Growers Bible says phosphorus is good for flowering and potassium is good for rooting [mostly] but Ive always thought it was the other way around? My potash box says good for flower&fruit production and so does a few other sites [some say phosphorus for root production even - just like I assumed] and Ive always though potash was for flower production so I dont know what to think now..

 

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!

 

Canna formula doesnt have more P than K so Im not too worried about not boosting phosphorus for now but Im new to flowering so I might be denying my plants some phosphorus [could be the reason Ive never seen a big bud - heh].

Edited October 22, 2003 by Wilderbud

[Luke Skywalker]

Urea is not immediately plant available, if you piss on your plants or apply fresh piss to them, there needs to be a substantial organic base to reduce it to plant available forms.

 

DO NOT APPLY PURE UREA TO YOUR PLANTS. It needs to be composted and diluted at the very least. All you'll do is overdose them unless you know exactly what you're doing.

[Guest Wilderbud]

Urea breaks down into usable form within 3 days after heavy watering so unless you use too much its not going to kill the plant [takes 3 days for the roots to grow to the new soil anyway]. I did say it was mostly for soil conditioning and I used it [plus potash & trace] to see if its better than slow release as I think it could be as slow release usually burns my plants [i got a few twisted keaves but Im getting good growth at last albeit spindly from too much shade and I didnt let the soil sit for 3 days].

 

What do you think about phosphate Luke - am I growing crap buds because I dont use it or is it just my bad luck?

[RobbieGanjaSeed]

There's another reason for making sure the turd is composted before using it. When any organic material starts to break down, the process requires nitogeon. So if you throw a dead chook, a lump of crap, or any uncomposted organic matter into any garden, it will intially reduce the amount of nitrogeon available to surrounding plants. Until the organic material has broken down, it has a reverse effect on available nutrients.

 

Also, turds, and this goes for even after composting, will attract ground gdiggging animals. They smell the seet soil from the compost or turd, and instict tells them that not far under that surface is going to be worms and beetles, grubs of differnet kinds and so on. They'll tear the roots apart while they burrow around the plants for food.

 

Throw some chicken wire flat down on the ground and peg in down. then cut holes out for the plants to come up through, if you are going to use manures.

 

I prefer cow turd. Grass is the highest common source of nitrogeon, and cows eat and break down loads of grass. Their gut bacteria is amazing stuf for soil conditioning, and it's very water absorbing. Water crystals are great, and after many yeras of using them, have never tasted anything conected to them. Chook shit is very concentrated, so go easy if you use it. I won't use it personally, except in small amounts incorporated in a healthy mixed compost made over a period of months. Although I've heard others say otherwise, I have never seen it myself do the amazing things it's famed for.

 

Given the nature of growing in the scrub, with having to carry so much equipment, and with all the weight that compost weighs, I use concentrated ferts. If I'm growing within a few undred metres of the house I'll use compost. In the hills, I tend to do similar to wilderbud. Although I disagree with his choices of ferts, that's an entirely personal area. I use and recomend Manutec fertalisers. They've actually come down in price over the years, which is virtually unheard of in any merchadise . But the stuf is unreal for dope. I remember 10 years ago, the bloom formula was virtually un-attainable during the beggining of head season. I used to stock pile it through the year, to avoid having to drive literally hundreds of miles around the country side looking for the stuf. it's fantastic, and has no smell, so it doesn't attract animals.

 

Don't discourage the dingoes. They're the best thing a guerilla gardener could hope for. Tie meat bones all around the grow with solid fencing wire. replenish with fresh ones whenever you kill, or go to the butchers. This will keep the dingoes camping around the grow, and the camp will soon smell permanently of dog turd and piss. Not to you maybe, but to kangaroos and wallabies it will, and you can just throw the fences away then. Seriously, you get them camping around the patch, and you will never have anything that resembles a problem with wallabies and roos.

 

Water will vary wildly, depending on soil condition, heat and moisture of the season, plant size, and most importantly; how hard ya heart is. A friend of mine grew on the opposite side of a hillside to where my patch was. So we had pretty much identical water falls in rain. He rarely watered, waiting until the plants almost died before he even thought of watering.

 

I on the other hand feel ill just watching a midday wilt. So I tend to water something in the order of 20 litres a day per plant, or every second day during the hieght of summer, and if the plants are large. Hell, even if they aren't large.

 

Somewhere in between is likely to be more the real aim.

 

Have fun

rob

[newplantdevil]

all should be good like everone else said make sure ther at least a week or 2 old and all should be good. when i prep my plots i dig the spot up break it up real good pour in a bag of sheep shit well depents on sizeof tha plot mix it all up its good for drainaige as well a few hadfulls of dolimite and a bag of mushroom compost a few hanfuls of bloodn bone and one hanful of volcanic rock dust and never had any probs and then i just feed em dynamic lifter and blood n bone and wen budding sum guano liquid then finnaly comes havest time .so good luck with the river grow