recirculating problems

[Guest Field_of_Light]

WC my g13 is the smallest least voracious plant I have ever seen in my life....Ive seen snails move faster than this....

 

It may perhaps have something to do with the hard start to its life initially it had or....my conditions arent suitable for this plant...but they are for every other strain...and I mean every other strain....4 months to scrog it...but Ive had enuff and my friend will turn it over on friday...2 months 1 week

 

Its going to have some of the best smoke I ahve ever seen.......

[white_cluster]

I've heard this FoL, I think Nimer mentioned it too. But shes OK to me,

 

Actually she is growing nothing like descriptions I have read, she isn't bushy or anything, shes quite upright and will need to be pruned. I got the clone back off a local newbie after I lost it so maybe its the wrong one.... Oh well.

[hydrodude]

My g13 is keeping up with my affi#1 growth wise..... I dunno why u are expierenceing slow growth.....

 

 

I ahe found she dosnt like a Heap of nutes.....

[Guest weekprik]

OK my 0.02c worth here,

I use flood and drain with hydroton,

 

First the ph is ideal at 6.3,

The nutes you need to make at full strength, or sliglty less,

There is no point in using pots in the hydroton, all that does is reduces the area your roots can spread out,

dont waste money on pots mate they are not needed or beneficial,

IF you must go with pots use net pots nothing else, OR even better is hydroton in stockings.

 

the nutes will need a fish tank heater set to 24deg,

the room ideally you want about 22 deg,

CO2 is a waste of money (it simply doesnt do what people say it will),

 

as far as nutes you want something designed for hydroton, the canna nutes are designed for cannasoil not hydroton,

 

Change your res every 2 weeks and inbetween ONLY top up with PH adjusted water, adjusted as close as you can to suit the current PH, IE- if your res is 6.5 then make the top up water 5.5,

 

In your system you would benefit from- Dutch master (grow) MAX, OXYplus(h202) at 2 mls per 10 litres every 2 days.

 

and when in flowering add Dutch master POTASH, and dutch master flowering MAX, and keep up the H202 (oxyplus),

 

with the H202 one with silver is prefferred but not necessary,

 

My G13 and G13hp are very slow growers as welll, but just remember that they dont stretch very much, whereas my AFFI is just fucking bananas I mean it grows fast, it was the size of the G13 but 4 weeks in to flower its 1/2 the size, but still within the 1 metre mark for my lights,

 

I will be trying a second system under my 1 400watt light, and that system will have 4 G13 plants, and the other will be either my ak47xc99 or affi, but prob the AK99 will win, as so far its impressed me where the Affi is nothing special, but Iam waiting to smoke it before pissing it off, incase is smokes better than it grows,

 

the G13 is as I said 1/2 the size BUT i reakon its got more trichromes than the other 2 put together,

 

ALL plants are subject to thier starts, in english that means if it grows hard and fast as a clone it will do the same in flower,

Edited July 8, 2003 by weekprik

[Kash]

Got to disagree with you mate about sticking them straight in the hydroton..Its messy ..you cant move your plants, and its a cunt cleaning up at the end of the crop, imageine trying to access the plumbing mid crop?.

 

 

Tigger , you could also repot the G13s into coco/perlite mix , and hand water... or drip for the first few days then hand water..this way you could raise them up higher in the system(eg;put the pot in a second pot with rocks) so they were in line with the rest of the plants..kind of a double pot system..ive done it before it works great.

Or just raise them up anyway you want, just remember to allow for drainage.

 

 

 

Kash

Edited July 8, 2003 by Kash

[Guest Field_of_Light]

Maybe the g13 pheno this has been selected for doesnt like a lotta nutes....

 

In fact I would say u guys were fairly well on the mark.....as some ppl choose em for needing low nute levels, low light levels etc....pays to know a bit about the particular phenos being shown by the plant when ya get it....

 

Its a bushy little sucker tho.....with short internodes......and big ass leaves....

[Guest weekprik]

Got to disagree with you mate about sticking them straight in the hydroton..Its messy ..you cant move your plants, and its a cunt cleaning up at the end of the crop, imageine trying to access the plumbing mid crop?.

 

 

 

Whats messy?? they are just clay balls- they dont disintergrate,

 

Why would you want to move a plant?? I put my plants where they will stay for the duration of the grow,

 

cleaning up is piss easy, take the box or pot outside and rip the plant out, and shake off the hydroton, now bury the hydroton where it falls, and plant an outdoors MJ or non-MJ plant in the old stones,

Each harvest use fresh unused hydroton (its pretty cheap considering the other expenses and risks),

 

Yeah The plumbing is a valid point though, mind you Ive never had a plumbing problem, all I have is a drain and a thing on a stalk in the middle of the box, and the top of this is accessable,

But yeah if something went wrong there?? hmmm what could go wrong??

 

I have read though in hydroton the roots could get knocked around and bruised even, I have not noticed any problems yet but I assume the H202 would take care of it anyway? I hope i never find out

[Kash]

well if you cant see the plumbing , there is a chance the roots could grow into the plumbing and block it...it has happend to me.

This situation wouldnt happen in pots.

I dont want to take my tables outside and fuck around with clayballs and shit.

I just take a finished plant out and replace it with one that is just a few weeks in.

You can recycle clay balles quite easily, just seperate the roots and let the clay dry out, then rinse them ,and use an organinc breaking down agent the next time you use them

I always move my plants..I group the larger ones together etc

 

 

 

Regards

 

 

Kash

[drummerlars]

maybe you could use pots with lava rocks and a dripper dfeeder system !!!! m,aybe cleaner and easier to control !!!

 

cheers

[tigger]

well thanks for all the replys, some interesting points being raised.

 

just to clarify a few things, i first grew the g13 in pots just to se how it went(50/50perl/vermic) and it kicked ass. was just 4 weeks old and a foot high, the top of the stem was almost as thick as the base! had about 22 nodes. was grown with the same nutes which are canna and are not the canna nutes for cocco. the g13xhp was just behind in size and growth rate. i'm running a 1000 watt mh over the table and that works out at 100 watts a square metre. could be right about the nute levels, as affi can take more than most, but i have ben mixing at just under the recommended 4 ml per litre and i don't think g13 is a weak strain after what i saw in the pots.

 

g13 and g13hp are still not near as green as the affi, growth rate continues to be fast with afi and slow with the others.

 

kash u are absalutely right about the ned for an even canopy during flowering, and i'm hoping that the pot up wont damage the root systems much. like the idea of the doble pot to raise the shorter ones but i think ill just kep moving the smallest to the centre and largest to the outside for an even canopy.

 

white cluster so the thrive is a waste of time? ok

 

and weedprik i know the canna nutes u are thinking about, stonedas uses them with his coco/perlite mix. as for co2, i have a well sealed area around the table and in the past have had great results with co2 when not as sealed(using pots lets the co2 drop down in between and hang around floor level) with the tabel the co2 has to hang around the base of the stem were it can be absorbed.

 

so anyone care to mention some product before i go out and buy dutch master grow,flower and potash and this oxyplus. i've heard alot of people on overgow use gh and its available in 3 parts at nearly $70 bucks per 5 ltr.