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What is going wrong! Please help! Experts only please...


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As a matter of interest do you have a drainage layer at te base of your coco pots using something like lava rocks , river stones clay balls ect or is it just the coco mix all the way down ?

 

I also use the Nutrifiled coco designed for their specific nutrients. And, there is no run-off at the bottom.

 

To me the last part of that sentence is an issue , coco REQUIRES you to aim for about 10% run off every watering or you need to flush through all the salt that is built up VERY regularly, not doing so can will mean ph fluctuation in the medium and nutrient lockout or even burning in the case of some elements.

 

do a standard feed WITH about 10% run off and then pH test the run off, if there are no issues in the medium you shouldn't see any change If you see a change though report back which way it has gone , often rot and bacteria will send your ph down whilst coco that is not allowed to dry between waterings , or doesn't run off it's waste can make your coco go quite alkaline towards the bottom of the pots in my experience.

 

My first coco grow I had the issue I am describing from not enough run off and no drainage layer in my pots , by the time I fixed it which was only about a week , the ph of the coco at the bottom of the pot was past 10 which naturally was causing me all kinds of issues.

 

Hope that helps a bit

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I'm actually not sure what I meant now by saying there is no run-off, because there is at the bottom. I was using the same pots I got the cuttings in, and the coco was rinsed. I flushed and found the ec was 2.4, which could well have been causing my problems. The ph was 6.3, and went in at 5.9 so I don't think that's causing the problems. I just flushed thoroughly, moved them to 20l pots with a thick layer of clay balls at the bottom, will see how it goes.

 

The ec of the water pre-nutes is .1-.2. The problem is, I was having these issues right through my last two efforts and I I was keeping on top of the ec of both the feed and the run-off, flushing regularly etc.

 

Are there any documents that definitively outline the ec and ph values at each stage of the cycle?

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I grow in coco. My PH is between 5.8 and 6.00 it may go a tad over but no more.

 

The nutes I use are coco specific I never ever use the recommended does always less.

 

Start grow off at .07ec and build up to perhaps 1 or 1.2 this is at the end of veg and strain dependant. I keep tabs on what's coming out of the pot that way i know what's going on inside.

 

I flush once a week, I have my system on auto for watering, someone that hand waters may give you there watering schedule.

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If your hand watering, try for once at day a couple of hours after lights on.

As Pure said you should be aiming for around 10% run off when you feed them.

I think some one mentioned earlier they could be root bound, i find that

coco can get root bound pretty quick, which will contribute to salt build ups, causing PH probs.

Try using Bio Bugs or some thing to dissolve dead roots.

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As pure & gills recomend, lower than sugested nutrient levels depending on strain, some like rich.

 

I been growing in coco for 5 years, always go clay balls in the bottom of pot, bout 10% run off & flush once a week.

 

works for me

 

All the best with your grow

 

cannazym

Edited by chubby
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Hi,

 

You have a classic case of TMV virus, ie.. 3 point leaf, ph dropping, burnt leaf, leaf loss of shine and texture, plants look stunted, growing very slowly.

 

Very, very commmon around Sydney,Newie and Wollongong at moment.

 

Cure = there is none, remove plants and double bleach everything (bottles, walls ,ground.. everything), after bleaching buy some Virkin S, which is effective against all major virus families affecting man and plants, and spray with that.

 

What ever you can afford to throw out than do so, this virus lasts 100 years without dying in a speck of leaf on the floor, can also be passed in the water, so in a recycling system you are finished.

 

Thirdly, DO NOT GET CLONES OFF YOUR FRIENDS, this virus can never be cured once the plant is infected, buy some seeds and start again.

 

Peace Jack

Edited by jackfrost
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Hi,

 

You have a classic case of TMV virus, ie.. 3 point leaf, ph dropping, burnt leaf, leaf loss of shine and texture, plants look stunted, growing very slowly.

 

Very, very commmon around Sydney,Newie and Wollongong at moment.

 

Cure = there is none, remove plants and double bleach everything (bottles, walls ,ground.. everything), after bleaching buy some Virkin S, which is effective against all major virus families affecting man and plants, and spray with that.

 

What ever you can afford to throw out than do so, this virus lasts 100 years without dying in a speck of leaf on the floor, can also be passed in the water, so in a recycling system you are finished.

 

Thirdly, DO NOT GET CLONES OFF YOUR FRIENDS, this virus can never be cured once the plant is infected, buy some seeds and start again.

 

Peace Jack

 

firstly nice to see you back around jack >:( ,

 

Thats an interesting diagnosis, I have to say that I can't see any sort of mosaic pattern or blistering on those leaves which it was my understanding are two clear identifying characteristics for the Tobacco Virus

 

I wouldn't recommend jumping the gun and assuming it's an incurable virus though when there have been a few other tid bits that have been corrected along the way here already.

 

I am not disagreeing with Jackfrost but it is my opinion that you really want to be sure before culling everything and starting over to have an infectious free crop

 

Any chance of some close up leaf shots of any that may be showing blistering or a mosaic pattern perhaps which would help to confirm the tmv diagnosis ?

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Hi Benbenny

 

Frazz .....it gets really interesting when experts arrive and diagnose.

 

Aye frazz., Pure threw some rationality and sense into the possible 'diagnosis'. A simple explanation for problems is needed to be excluded first.

 

Cheers for replies. I asked for experts only because i've been doing this a while, have posted this before and am still having the exact same problems. This time, though, I posted photos.

 

Pic are great help and you have been requested more ... get clicking.

 

All the possibilities in the replies are sound.

 

I'm watering them roughly 2/3 times a day, handwatering at the moment. I flush every week with Ph adjusted water.

 

Stop weekly flushing - you need micro organisms to build up in sterile coco. How could you getr a stable PH when you flush so much !

 

>:(

Nitty.

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That's interesting about the tmv virus blistering, lack of shine etc, I had all of that in my first crop with many 3-pronged leaves all the way through, but the second there were no 3-prongers but plenty of burning etc, typical of nutrient burn but the ec was always at what was recommended. I don't see any blistering on these, though, and I don't see the lack of shine. Also, some 5-prong leaves are starting to sprout again on the smaller two, and the larger one has had 5-prongers for a week now, though is still throwing off some 3-prongers. I bleached the pots I moved these into, and there were no problems with them at my friends. His are very healthy. I'm also doing it in a different room, and will double bleach everything i've used before I use it again.

 

I was about to remove some of the affected leaves and take photos, will post back soon...

 

cheers all

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