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Fan advice, its getting hot again


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yeah, theyre crap. Spent 600+ on the bugger cause i was wporried wot the neighbours wood think running ac 24hrs. Ive decided to piss it off and put in a big window model and stuff the neighbours. I figure a 15K BTU window model will make it like the artic in there if need be

 

 

I'd say that thing was actually causing your problem. I had one in my ensuite pumping the air into the room in a rental house many moons ago since I couldn't justify fitting ac to a land lords house at the time; you couldn't use the room without sweating like a pig.

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tropical areas have there own unique problems regarding heat ... Everest lives in them tropics so he knows whats best and i tend to agree with him ... use cyclone-like ventilation, big fans pushing huge volumes of air .. so much so that you can stand in the room smoking a ciggarette and you cant even see the smoke cause it is sucked out so quickly .. your temps will still be on the high side but plants just have to live with that were you are ..... thats the answer IMO

 

:peace:

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I had a similar prob last summer. They seem to deal with the high temps (30+) for veg and the beginning of flower and its not until the end of the run that the heat starts to knock em about and slow everything down.

So.... bought a 15000BTU window model yesterday. Have a high vol centrifugal on the way - doubling the airflow thru my hoods- and I've changed the duct run round minusing 2 180degree corners and 1 90degree one and losing 2m of run. Should help I think. I wont have it all installed till next week. Im scraping this run and starting again. Anyone wana buy a 3month old 12K BTU portable aircon....

I cant remember if you mentioned your airflow rate Ev?

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Hey Calman.

Thought I might drop in my 2 cents worth ^^

 

Firstly, the length and the size of your ducting is not the problem.

 

yes co2 increased fan speed and overall dont worry !!!!

 

Secondly, as Psychoresin said, what does Co2 have to do with your heat problem?

None! So don't waste time and money on a 5% variable when you got serious problems NOW!

 

Thirdly I Personally think those hoods are rubbish...

I would be using

2 x 150mm cooltubes and

2x Medium Batwing Adjust-A-Shade

you also badly need to get a centrifugal fan

 

use cyclone-like ventilation, big fans pushing huge volumes of air .. so much so that you can stand in the room smoking a ciggarette and you cant even see the smoke cause it is sucked out so quickly .. your temps will still be on the high side but plants just have to live with that were you are ..... thats the answer IMO

 

 

If you can, Put your carbon filter right up against the roof.

And all your inlet ducting as low as possible.

As Everest and Frazz pointed out, your problem is based purely around outlet air.

In the end of the day, if you have the same Centrifugal fan pumping air into the room

and your existing inlet set to extraction, you would have far greater heat problems.

 

This is because when you have more air pumping in that out, it needs a place to go right?

So it goes though any holes or cracks in your room to escape, and a lot of the hot stagnant air, still is left up the top of the room. Looking at the opposite scenario, If your pulling more air out, and your pulling it out from the top

(Hot air rises) of coarse you are going to have a more efficient exchange of air.

Just make sure you have at least 20% more air pumping out, then being pushed in.

So I would be doing a process like this.

 

Repositioning any equipment before you get a centrifugal to help now.

- This includes mounting ballasts onto the roof, or not in the room at all.

- Changing your inlet and outlet entry points.

- Have your carbon filter high as possible

 

Mount the new centrifugal between the two lights or at the end.

Go to bunnings and buy specific silver vent tape. (forgot the name)

not Duct tape.

You can see the tape in the photo

 

And to pre-warn you, fellow OS, Centrifugal fans will be the pinnacle of noise in your system.

I know no one warned me about it till it was mounted and ready to go :photo:

 

post-13422-1252393542_thumb.jpg

Again, from your hardware store, get some sound proofing material.

Keep the original fan box and cut two 150mm holes either side,

Place some material in, place the fan in, more material.

stuff the sucker full seal her up, and that should reduce noise and vibration by 50% or so.

 

Good Luck

 

Cyclone -

Edited by Cyclone
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I'll try to explian... My grow room is a room inside a room. 2by2.4. Fully sealed floor to ceiling. The man hole into the roof is inside the enclosure, which the ducting from the hoods and the filter runs thru into the roof cavity to the fan and then 2m further on to exhaust over the eaves - no back pressure there and the manhole is sealedwith holes cut for the ducting.

The aircon sits outside the enclosure blowing air in thru a hole about 500mm from the floor. The outlet pipe for the aircon exhausts thru a hole in the floor under the house (I pulled up some floor boards). The inlet side of the duct for the hoods comes from a hole in the floor, thru a hole in the wall of the enclosure to the hoods.

There is 3 fans inside the enclosure mixing the air. One under the aircon to stir it up, one over the top of the plants and one at root level. The carbon filter sits about 2ft below the ceiling.

Ive never figured how to add the co2 Rad. As I said before it just seems it'd get sucked out. I know its heavier than air but with all the fans.... I suppose if I pissed the fans off (as they arent really cooling just mixing) and added the co2 it'd have to get full before the filter started pulling it out right?

Ive been keeping the res cool with frozen bottles but i noticed yesterday they are starting to show heat damage now...

I'm going to buy a centrifugal this week to put in the beginning of the light run. I was thinking of getting ther can fan max at 400lps+. Taking the mixflo out all together as it'd be no good in that duct as it'd just be running too slow...

 

Just a thought, your roof cavity may not be getting rid of the heat quickly enough and your grow room could be pressurizing which will stop any airflow no matter how big the fans are, if the air in the roof cavity is not getting out quickly enough to cope with the air entering the roof cavity then you will get a flow on effect into the grow space. Good luck.

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Just a thought, your roof cavity may not be getting rid of the heat quickly enough and your grow room could be pressurizing which will stop any airflow no matter how big the fans are, if the air in the roof cavity is not getting out quickly enough to cope with the air entering the roof cavity then you will get a flow on effect into the grow space. Good luck.

 

Agreed.

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Hi Calaman,do you still need help mate ;) im a refrigeration tec {ok} an where i live it gets pritty hot 45c to 49c an i can keep my girls at 28c ,when i run the lights at day time,,so let me know if i can help, :photo: let me know what size grow room you have an your inlet an outlet fan size an liters per second they move,eg=air/flow,an do you have a fan speed controler for your outlet fan ,you may think i am dribbling shit to you ;), but its good shit ok ;) an your light set up at the moment,some photo,s would be a great help :D Edited by The-Gecko
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slow it down 10-20%
translates into $$$$$$$$$$$$

suddenly your herb is 10-20% cheeper

at times you may need full power

but when you dont need full power

why waste your hard earned bucks

imho

wiched idea that could be automated with a thurmastat

The-Gecko is soooooo right

thans and praize fro your help here

Calla

please

post the specs of your AC

the dimentions of your room

and list heat scources in the room eg Lights, pumps ect

 

The-Gecko will then be able to recomend the size of your inlet/outlet and what fans are best suited for the job

irey guidance

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