HELP , How do i wire my contactor/timer for my lights

[madazz]

Yeah fair enough, your correct about the power in, that to me is an important thing, having a known supply that doesn't have the fridge, the jug, the toaster etc on as well, especially when talking 2400watts of Inductive load.

Start up is another problem to consider as the inrush current on start up is about 1.5 times the run current roughly from memory. 3600watts = 15 amps roughly

Your still going to have the same problem at the power point though unless you hard wire the cable into your contactor as a power point is still only rated at 10 amps don't forget, so what you save one way causes you problems in another way thats the beauty of having everything rated at 10 amps You go plugging that thing into one lone power socket and your asking for trouble, you'll need a 15amp socket outlet at least if you don't hard wire it.

As for the ballasts clicking it doesn't do a thing imo. How often does power go out for a few seconds anyway? Oh well, you found someone to help out so good luck.

 

 

i have a 30amp cable running from breaker box to grow op, wired into my timer box ill be sweet. 2400 watts at start up 4 x 600 is 6.2 x 4 = 24.8amps on start up. i'm 240vac remember not 120, thats why my amps are lower. Anyway Al B knows his shit he's the man.

 

really simple once u know what your doing and very affective.!

 

peace madazz

[madazz]

A 5 min lockout is actually effing brilliant stuff. I'd like to have a few of those myself. I've lost more than one HPS lamp to hotstarts when AC mains go up & down in a windstorm.

 

The lights having their own ckt bkr is also a very good idea, though a 32A is a bit big, that'll carry 7.6kW. If nothing else it makes a very good on/off switch.

 

 

yeah when i found the lock out imer i thought wicked!!!!!! just what i need i stumbled across it and it was cheap as.

 

what size C/B should i have used to be more suitable, do u think Al ?

 

Madazz

[Al B. Fuct]

i have a 30amp cable running from breaker box to grow op, wired into my timer box ill be sweet. 2400 watts at start up 4 x 600 is 6.2 x 4 = 24.8amps on start up.

 

Actually, your HID lighting will draw more current on startup than during operation. A 600 on 240VAC will pull 3.85A (924W) for about 10-15sec after the arc strikes. When the tube is beginning to glow brightly, the current will fall back to about 2.73A (655W). Your four 600s will draw 15.4A (3696W) when striking and warming up. This will fall back to 10.92A (2620W) when all 4 are warmed up and running.

 

yeah when i found the lock out imer i thought wicked!!!!!! just what i need i stumbled across it and it was cheap as.

 

Where'd you get it and how much $?

 

what size C/B should i have used to be more suitable, do u think Al ?

 

I'd use a 20A unit. That's enough headroom to deal with the startup spike but low enough to provide some real protection in case something goes short.

[bufo marinus]

Well, I wasn't aware it was such a problem?

Sounds like a good idea for sure then cool

[madazz]

hey Al,

 

ill go a metal box and change to a 20a breaker. thanks for the advice.

 

Ebay of course, type in lockout timer or cut and paste link below into your browser/link bar. The Seller is karlspeed2 and the Price is $12.50

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LOCK-OUT-TIMER-MADE...p3286.m20.l1116

 

Thanks for everything mate.

 

Azz

 

 

 

Actually, your HID lighting will draw more current on startup than during operation. A 600 on 240VAC will pull 3.85A (924W) for about 10-15sec after the arc strikes. When the tube is beginning to glow brightly, the current will fall back to about 2.73A (655W). Your four 600s will draw 15.4A (3696W) when striking and warming up. This will fall back to 10.92A (2620W) when all 4 are warmed up and running.

 

 

 

Where'd you get it and how much $?

 

 

 

I'd use a 20A unit. That's enough headroom to deal with the startup spike but low enough to provide some real protection in case something goes short.

[Al B. Fuct]

hey Al,

 

ill go a metal box and change to a 20a breaker. thanks for the advice.

 

no wucking furries.

 

Ebay of course, type in lockout timer or cut and paste link below into your browser/link bar. The Seller is karlspeed2 and the Price is $12.50

 

At that price. there's simply no excuse not to have one of these on every HPS light you run.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LOCK-OUT-TIMER-MADE...p3286.m20.l1116

 

Unfortunately, this listing does not tell me what the max load capacity of the lockout device is. Is the load rating marked on the one you have? Your application where just one lockout is employed, as shown in my schematic, will require a minimum load rating of 16A @ 240V or 3840W. If the load rating is not that high, it may be necessary to use one lockout per lamp, perhaps one for each two lamps.

 

Thanks for everything mate.

 

happy to help.

Edited July 26, 2009 by Al B. Fuct

[Al B. Fuct]

Well, I wasn't aware it was such a problem?

Sounds like a good idea for sure then cool

 

Yes, hotstart after power failure is a major cause of lamp tube destruction. Worst case is when high winds cause rapid cycling or spiking of the mains voltage, either by causing the uninsulated aerial conductors to touch one another or by rapidly breaking and reconnecting the line or neutral feeds at dodgy or weathered connections. This can trash ballasts along with lamp tubes. It's none too good for PC power supplies, either. Surge protectors can cope with very brief voltage spikes but not dropouts with a rapid restoration of voltage.

 

$12.50 is a lot less exxy than a new lamp, ballast or PC power supply. At that price, it's nuts not to have a few of these around the house in various applications. Very cheap insurance.

[Al B. Fuct]

madazz, marrabundi mentioned to me in a PM that a steel box may be prone to corrosion if mounted inside the grow room. Too right. Mount it outside the room if possible. If not, put a dot of silicone sealant over any screws you put through the box. A galvanised steel junction box is a good thing in a humid area.

 

marrabundi also suggested use of a PVC box fitted with a DIN rail. If you had not already acquired all the surface mountable bits, I'd agree. A DIN rail facilitates easy, reliable earthing between components, but all components have to be DIN rail compatible. If you were doing this over again, I would indeed suggest you use a PVC box with a DIN rail and DIN compatible components.

Edited July 26, 2009 by Al B. Fuct

[madazz]

madazz, marrabundi mentioned to me in a PM that a steel box may be prone to corrosion if mounted inside the grow room. Too right. Mount it outside the room if possible. If not, put a dot of silicone sealant over any screws you put through the box. A galvanised steel junction box is a good thing in a humid area.

 

marrabundi also suggested use of a PVC box fitted with a DIN rail. If you had not already acquired all the surface mountable bits, I'd agree. A DIN rail facilitates easy, reliable earthing between components, but all components have to be DIN rail compatible. If you were doing this over again, I would indeed suggest you use a PVC box with a DIN rail and DIN compatible components.

 

 

i had originally thought about going with the pvc enclousure with din rail to mount c/b. seems like ill go with that then. I have'nt had a chance to get the box yet got everything else. My C/B is din rail mounted, i was gonna mount it that way (din rail) regardless of the enclosure.

 

also i looked into the lock out timers and well lucky i did, there are only rated at 1Amp and so if i want to use it ill have to have another contactor after it to switch lights on, other wise the load will cook the lockout timer, The biggest lock outs i've been able to find so far are 5A. lucky u brought this to my attention Al. B

 

unless u have any ideas around this ?

 

madazz.