Flushing ....

[bufo marinus]

Hey Buddy.g looking good there bro ,,, the more also relates to the time factor , 9 to 12 clones in that cupboard every 8 wks will give you more over a year because it will fill your grow space faster and has a quicker turn around , you will also find the single crowns will yeild more than tied tops not a great deal but they will , for the highest yield in the fastest time more plants will win everytime .

Rod

we may be wandering a little off topic but it's all part of the bigger picture eh

I do agree with you Rod about more plants = higher yield, faster.

Another way to look at how efficient this particular grow cycle of Buddy.g is that while the flower cab is full, one healthy clone is being trained under 40-80 watts of fluorescent lighting into 6 growing tips/arms ready to pop straight into 12/12. Still very efficient, but as I say only in regards to that small cupboard of buddys which looks fairly chocka with one plant.

 

the other reason sog will tend to yield more is that the total volume of the rootzone is bigger than a typical scrog.

Any interested grower (I fucking hate the term newbie) scratching his or her head regarding plant spacings for pot/container sizing etc should have a coupla cones and let that one sink in. Big healthy plants need a robust healthy root system. Smaller plants can still produce with amazingly small pots,... so once again differing growrooms/styles lead us to other parts of the big picture hehe smoke em if you got em

[buddy.g]

The question was--more plants kept small will yield a shit a load more than one plant grown in the same space...

 

Rod you are exactly right--every 8 wks will give you more over a year because it will fill your grow space faster and has a quicker turn around

 

They way i grow my baby adds 2 extra weeks to the grow(Due to excessive stress i think)

 

Sorry Suko i should have thought that through a bit more.

 

buddy,g

My yeild for that grow was 9 oz prime bud, 3 oz of lower grade, and 7 oz of crap that i turned into 1/8oz of top hash.

Edited February 11, 2007 by buddy.g

[Taipan]

I don't want to keep going over and over the same thing, but "personally I think" fine tuning your system to avoid nutrient build up is pretty easy. I am not stating anything as fact, all my opinion so I don't see a need to argue over it again and again.

 

Pretty obvious that there are plenty of people who don't agree with me, so what I am going to say here is again, my opinion. No need to argue it as I am not changing that opinion. I am also not saying I am Mr Plant Guru or anything like that, but I have formed this opinion from helping 100's of growers trouble shoot their growrooms. I used to have people bring leaves or other parts of their plants, and sometimes whole plants into my shop for me to tell them what was going wrong, just about every day for years. So I got to look first hand at the problems. I had an excellent selection of books and would search through them with the customer to find the problems and to show them how I discovered the answers. Looking at the plant with a magnifying glass or microscope would often enlighten us to the problems. We all learned that way. In the early days I also had a mate at the chemistry department of one of the unis and he used to do nutrient and leaf analysis for me at no charge. The results I got back from him opened my eyes to a lot of things as most of the time the nutrition was fine, but the plant was still looking sick.

 

Here comes this bit people may not agree with but is just my opinion. Most of the books on growing pot only talk about nutrient deficiencies in their trouble shooting sections. But you may also note that the largest portions of a lot of these books are talking about growing in soils or potting mixes so deficiencies will be more common. But hydroponic growers are using high grade nutrients and unless you let things go way out of wack nutrient deficiencies are not that common.

 

Most common deficiencies are iron which occurs when pH levels go too high. Dump the tank and fill with a new batch of nutrients at the right pH and the deficiency goes away pretty quick. Also magnesium deficiency can happen every now and then but usually only happens when people add too many other things to their solutions throwing the balance out. This is usually corrected with a tank change and a foliar spray. If your nutrients build up too strong you may get some tip burn, no big deal, just weaken the nutrients and the new growth will be fine. And you have to feed them a lot weaker than you might think before they show signs of lacking nutrients.

 

But there are many other problems that will exhibit similar symptoms and very few books talk about them. Of all the problems I saw on peoples plants, very few of them were nutrient deficiencies. Most of them were some sort of disease or pest problem related to growing in an indoor environment and usually the problem was easily fixed. There are fungal diseases that effect leaves in an identical fashion to magnesium deficiency, and there are other ones that effect them like potassium deficiency and nitrogen deficiency symptoms can occur from root diseases etc etc. My opinion again, but of all the problems I saw, I reckon less than 5% of them were because of nutrient problems. Most of the time the solutions that we worked out to fix the problem worked well and I got plenty of good feedback to attest to that.

 

OK, you are going to want to tell us why everything I just said is wrong, but it is my opinion and is meant to spark a bit of thought in new areas. When some of the newer growers start having problems in a growroom I just want them to know that as long as they have been looking after their nutrients reasonably well, nutrients are most probably not the cause of the problem.

Edited February 15, 2007 by Taipan

[loylty gets u nothing]

well written mate

and ya have opened me eyes to disease..

thanks for that...

any tips on overcoming these probs in soil as thats were most of dramas are?

thanks for ya time and sharing ya thoughts

bil

[Taipan]

any tips on overcoming these probs in soil as thats were most of dramas are?

Thanks for the kind words Bill

 

With regards to the soil problems, I never really had a green thumb in soil, some people have it, some don't. Hydro worked well for me right from the start. I know when growing in soil or potting mix it doesn't pay to buy the cheap stuff, get the best that is around. If the pH in the soil is not right it can be harder to correct that in hydroponics.

 

With regards to correcting deficiencies etc, some nurseries will sell individual elements for fixing these problems.

 

A lot of the books on growing pot have very good sections on making soil mixes etc and I would expect them to be tried and proven mixes. If you start with a really good mix, and fertilise with good fertilisers without overdoing it, then you shouldn't have any problems.

[Frazz]

Heya Taipan mate i have put your 73rd post through the bullshit detector machine and it came out all clear ... no arguments .. everything is 100% gospel

 

hey but can you tell me what is the best approach / product to eradicate fungal gnats in perlite medium? ... cause that would be most enlightening for me

 

[SukonmiSkunk]

buddy,G..

 

thats one factor.. shorter grow time more crops... but you're cropping in 10 weeks thats 5 crops a year... you're already getting an extra grow in.. over one thats cropping every 12 weeks.... so yeah thats one harvest extra yield...

 

you can still go better... cropping every 8 weeks... or how ever long your strain takes to flower... put 4 clones in there... put 16... maybe put 25 in there and NOT grow at all.... its the risk factor... with plant numbers .. its why we ScrOG and not SOG

 

so theres another crop.. 6 a year... also.. take into consideration.. and every body knows this... a tipped plant will NOT produce as bigger main cola as an untipped plant.... so each bud you grow.. all 25 or 16 or how ever many you can fit really..... will weigh more per foot square than the one plant tipped to get the 25 heads...

 

oh they dont weigh all that much more.. but over the grow its probably an extra coupe of O's .. of prime top crown...

 

 

ok.. back on topic...

 

I ve done a second pick with my last grow.. to let the bottoms fatten up a little more... gives a little more.. but takes an extra 3 weeks... now from harvest... the PPM's were reading 90ppm.. pretty clean.. from there I added fresh water and fresh nutes and adjusted them to 1800ppm...as they have been on water for 10 days.. they needed a drink and the PPM's the next morning read at 1400.. I readjusted to 1800... since then on wards up to now... I have just added fresh water at about 15-20 liters a day... its ready to harvest this weekend... and my PPM's are still reading at 350ppm... now to look at the room.. the buds look fantastic... but all the leaves are dead or dieing or rust spots and pretty much every nutrient deficiency known... ill be harvesting Sunday or Monday so they will get a more decent flush over tonight and tomorrow night... then ill chop them...

 

just thought id share that...

[moKing]

Hey fraz, I never had a prob with fungus nats myself but heard if you get a slice of potato and sit it on top of your medium then cover the top of your pots with glad wrap, and leave it for a night and they will all go to the potato. then use the glad wrap to wrap the potato and dispose of in a coupple of zip lock bags.

Sorry to take your thread off track Tiapan,

 

Best of luck fraz

 

moKing

[Frazz]

Yea thanks moking, i will definately give that one a go , it sounds logical theory ... well it must be boring living in perlite and feeding on tender root tips, so potato would be a great novelty

 

keep Tassie green moking

 

[Taipan]

Heya Taipan mate i have put your 73rd post through the bullshit detector machine and it came out all clear ... no arguments .. everything is 100% gospel

 

hey but can you tell me what is the best approach / product to eradicate fungal gnats in perlite medium? ... cause that would be most enlightening for me

 

.. thanks Frazzle

 

Best rememdy for fungus gnats in perlite ... a few methods. There use to be some drenches around, but they dissapeared from the market, not sure if there is anything else around these days. Dutchmaster had a product called Guardian, I think it is called something different these days. It supposedly controlled them but I did not get very good feedback on its effectiveness. I found that a pyrethrum solution mixed 5 x weaker than spray strength can be watered into the perlite with pretty good results. But I must say that is a very harsh method of control. I have never done any damage using this method, and other people have reported back that it was a success, but I consider that a last resort.

 

I had a major infestation of fungus gnats in coco once that I had reused a few too many times. The coco was full of fungus gnats and there were millions of scarid flys buzzing around the coco. I killed them all in 1 week by attacking the adults rather than the larvae. I sprayed "around" the base of the plants, and on the surface of the coco with a can of mortein house and garden insecticide every day. The numbers dropped off each day by about 20% and after 1 week they were all gone. The cycle was stopped. All of the ones that were going to hatch out had and were killed within that time. I did not spray the plants so it did no harm to them at all, I just misted around the base of them and around the pots. This was at the beginning of a new batch of plants and by harvest time there were still no fungas gnats around.

Edited February 16, 2007 by Taipan