The Plant Problem solver READ FIRST BEFORE POSTING

[Shithappens]

The following was stolen from the once great WWW.OVERGROW.COM and my hats off to all those that helped in making that such a great place......

 

Now to pump this place with the info that i stole from there.

 

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

 

Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay

 

 

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

 

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

 

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency. If not, go to #3.

 

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. If not, go to #4.

 

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. If not, keep reading.

 

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus (P) deficiency. If not, go to #6.

 

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. if not, go to #7.

 

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). If not, go to #8…

 

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). If not, go to #9.

 

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. If not, go to #10...

 

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. If not, go to #11.

 

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. If not, #12.

 

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. If not, #13.

 

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron ( deficiency. If not… You may just have a weak plant.

 

 

 

Mobile Nutrients

 

Nitrogen

 

Leaves are small and light green; lower leaves lighter than upper ones; not much leaf drop; weak stalks

 

Nitrogen is a key Element in the production of Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. Many plant hormones contain Nitrogen as well as Chlorophyll, DNA and RNA (Genetic materials), and a myriad of enzymes that help control and regulate growth. Nitrogen is the most mobile element.

 

Plants suffering from this deficiency are distinct in their pattern of yellowing. Yellowing starts on the older leaves and progresses upward, leaving the top parts of the plant green.

Notice that the large fan leaves are yellowing and turning purple-ish. from the bottom up.

 

Cure: Feeding with a high N fert will clear it up, like an emulsion of fish at 5-1-1 or try adding nitrate of soda

 

[Editor’s note: Leaves will turn pale green, then yellow evenly. There are no intervenial striping or yellow patches. Color is uniform over the entire leaf. Yellowing is expected during flushing, as the plant is using up all available internal nutrients]

 

Nitrogen Toxicity: Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.

With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.

 

Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor

 

Phosphorous

 

Dark-green foliage lower leaves sometimes yellow between veins purplish color on leaves or petioles.

 

Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.

Phosphorous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.

 

Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency

 

Phosphorus (P) Toxicity: This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.

 

Cure: A good all-around fertilizer like Peter's 20-20-20 will clear this up.

 

Potassium

 

Lower leaves may be mottled; dead areas near tips and margins of leaves; yellowing at leaf margins continuing toward center

 

Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in its life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.

 

Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.

 

Potassium Toxicity: Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

 

Cure: Add muriate of potash. Again, feeding with a good all-around fertilizer will clear it up as well. You can also use wood ashes and water them into your soil to fix this. You'll need to replace your soil's holding capacity of Potassium, and have a surplus before it will become available to the roots again.

 

Minor Nutrients

 

Chances of seeing anything but an Iron deficiency are slim, but when pushing the envelope with HID’s and CO2 enrichment, they will pop up from time to time. Most are seen, if ever, in outdoor grows.

 

Magnesium

 

Lower leaves are yellow between veins (veins remain green); leaf margins may curl up or down or leaves may pucker; leaves die in later stages

 

Chlorophyll has the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle.

Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

A magnesium deficient plant is identified by intervenial chlorosis, necrosis, and eventually a lockout of plant nutrients. The problems starts at the bottom of the plants and works its way up.

These images depict different stages and signs of a magnesium deficiency. The first picture is an Mg deficient plant in flower, and the second two are of the leaves to show what I mean by Intervenial Chlorosis.

 

Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity: Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.

 

Cure: Treating with an Epsom salts mix will clear this right up.

 

Sulphur

 

Tip of the shoot stays alive; light green upper leaves; leaf veins lighter than surrounding areas.

 

Sulphur is an important element in the structures of amino acids and proteins, and is needed for normal plant respiration and metabolism of sugars and other compounds.

 

Sulphur Toxicity: Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.

 

Cure: If you ever see this in your plants, then you can be assured that you have this deficiency. Look for yellowing starting from the top, and progressing down, including the veins of the leaves. Treat the same as an Mg deficiency.

 

Calcium

 

Tip of the shoot dies; tips of young leaves die; tips of leaves are hooked-shaped.

 

Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. A Ca deficiency will stunt plant growth. Acidic soils may increase the risk of a Ca def.

 

Calcium Toxicity: Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.

 

Cure: Add any plant food containing Calcium

 

 

Trace Elements

 

The six trace elements of Boron, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, and Zinc are not required in large quantities, but are important in the transfer of energy in plant processes.

 

Boron

 

Tip of the shoot dies; stems and petioles are brittle

 

This is a rare occurrence and is exemplified by small gray or necrotic patches on the growing shoots which eventually die.

 

Fixing this is done easily by applying a foliar spray of eyewash containing Boric Acid. This picture is not really the best IMO, but it shows a gray patch on a leaf that is indicative of what to look for. This will most likely occur in outdoor grows.

 

Cure: Add any plant food containing boron

 

Copper

 

A copper deficiency is commonly mistaken for an over fertilization problem, but it is set apart by the growing tips dieing off first along with the crispy leaves. The new shoots will die from the tips and margins first, often going brown or even white before they die.

 

A foliar feeding with a commercial fungicide containing Copper (i.e. Copper Sulphate) will clear it up, but the damaged leaves may never recover.

 

Cure: Add any plant food containing copper

 

Iron

 

Tip of the shoot stays alive; new upper leaves turn yellow between veins (large veins remian green); edges and tips of leaves may die.

 

An Iron deficiency will mask a Magnesium deficiency. If you look at the newer growth, that will be where the plant exhibits the intervenial chlorosis typically differentiating it from a Magnesium deficiency.

 

Iron Toxicity: Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.

 

Cure: Add any plant food containing Iron

 

Notice how the top of the plant is exhibiting intervenial chlorosis and the lower part is unaffected.

 

Manganese

 

Tip of the shoot stays alive; new upper leaves have dead spots over surface; leaf may apear netted because of small veins remaining green.

 

A Manganese deficiency exhibits a general chlorosis, followed by yellowing patches and necrotic patches between the veins of the larger fan leaves.

 

Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn

 

Cure: Add any plant food containing Manganese

 

Molybdenum

 

A Molybdenum deficient plant will exhibit yellowing necrotic leaves from the tips inward, with necrotic lesions present from the tips inward. A very distinctive feature is that it occurs in the middle of the plant. It also may spread to the rest of the plant if not stopped, eventually killing your plant.

 

Fritted Trace Elements may be added to your soil mix as you prepare it for planting. A good Hydroponic nutrient should contain ample micros to get your plant through its lifecycle.

 

Cure: use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it

 

Zinc

 

A Zinc deficient plant is obvious from the wispy new growth with twisted leaflets at 90°. There is also intervenial chlorosis at the top of the plant that is commonly confused with an Iron deficiency.

 

Notice in this picture that the older grown leaves are relatively unaffected and healthy

 

Zinc Toxicity: Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.

 

Cure: Add any commercial plant food containing Iron

 

Other persistent problems

 

pH

 

Improper pH can cause an abundance of problems that you might easily confuse with other problems or deficiencies.

 

A pH imbalance may also be the cause of the deficiencies in the first place. pH in soil is best in the range of 6 up to 7.5, and in a Hydroponic system it’s best at 5.2-5.8.

 

Cure: Get the meters and change the nuts 2 suit but then if your serious then you’ve got the meters!! See below for details

 

Ranges for hydroponic nutrients pH TDS EC and temperature?

 

I follow and highly recommend the following parameters for hydroponic nutrient solutions for aeroponic, “bubblers”, drip, ebb and flow, NFT, passive, rockwool and wick systems.

 

PH 5.1-5.9 (5.2 optimal)

TDS 500-1000ppm, EC .75-1.5

Temperature 68-78f, 20-25c (75f, 24c optimal)

 

The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.1 and pH 5.9, then nutritional deficiency and/or toxicity problems can occur. For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5.2 for optimal elemental uptake. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. These pH and TDS/EC recommendations may seem low relative to the normally suggested range, but are based upon information garnered from "Hydroponic Nutrients" by M. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and my experience has shown discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5.2 over higher levels.

 

Adjusting the pH in hydroponics and soil?

 

To lower pH:

In hydroponics: use nitric acid during vegetative; phosphoric acid during flowering.

In bioponics/hydro-organics: acetic and citric acid will facilitate the "kreb" cycle.

In soil: bloodmeal/cottonseed meal during vegetative; bonemeal during flowering.

 

To raise pH:

In hydroponics: use potassium silicate, provides silicon at an effective doseage.

In bioponics/hydro-organics: add small amounts of sodium bicarbonate or lime.

In soil: add dolomite limestone to the soil; use small amounts of hydrated lime.

 

Over Fertilization

 

This is a very common problem that can be disguised as an improper pH, or light burning, as well as a myriad of other problems.

The first picture masks as over Nitrification, but notice how the entire leaf is curled under, not just the tip.

 

Cure: Flush your hole out with straight water watch the water temp should be around 20->24 degrees celcius

 

 

This photo displays many problems associated with overferting, some of which could be a simple imbalance of pH and a certain nutrient/micro lockout at the given pH.

 

Over watering/ lack of Dissolved Oxygen

 

Droopy leaves and lower leaf yellowing are indications of persistent over watering problems.

 

Cure: Dont water for a bit then cut down on watering

 

Over Nitrification

 

The following pictures show the “claw”: indicative of over Nitrification. Some growers load up their plants with Nitrogen prior to flowering. This will prepare them for the stretch to follow, and will increase bud production if induced a few weeks prior to blooming the plant.

 

Radiant Heat

 

[Editor's note: Radiant heat is simply “light burn”. Typically, topmost leaves will become pale green, and then turn brown as the burn progresses. Plants on the outmost edge of the garden will remain a healthy dark green, with light burned plants directly underneath the reflectors in a pattern.]

 

Ozone Damage

 

Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as an Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.

 

 

 

DONT FORGET: I deserve not karma for this as all i have done is copy and paste

 

This does have images and i will work on getting them in there very soon but i pasted them into word and its a pain to get them out

Edited August 14, 2006 by Shithappens

[stonedstump]

Some good information there, thanks for posting.

 

I will be checking back for pictures as I'm saving this as a HTML document to add to my collection. I already have 50+ FAQs from overgrow but don't have this one yet

 

Thanks again

[420Downunder]

Try this, it looks to be complete , photo's and all (I've also downloaded the entire thing and burnt it to dvd just in case

http://growfaq.marijuana.com/growfaq/

[stonedstump]

Holy crap.. that is a huge list of FAQs there 420..

 

Another one for the personal archive

 

..does anyone remember the post a while back on this site where someone included a link to download a zip file full of FAQs from overgrow (50 or so of them) I just tried searching for it but can't find it.

 

 

EDIT: How did you download the whole thing at once? I wouldn't mind doing the same thing myself in case it gets taken off the net.

Edited August 13, 2006 by stonedstump

[420Downunder]

I use a program called Offline Explorer Enterprise , works brilliantly

[stonedstump]

Thanks 420 it's downloading now as I type..

 

www.cracks.am is my next stop now

[nugget]

I use a program called Offline Explorer Enterprise , works brilliantly

 

 

Thanks for that, looks like a useful little program. But $400US for an 8MB program??

 

/me wanders over to bittorrent

 

[420Downunder]

Shit that's dear, thank god for alternate methods hey

[Budman2012]

A nice addition ... easier than hunting thru all the literature ...

 

Cheerz SH .

 

 

Budman.

[Shithappens]

Oh wow Thanks for the link to whats left from Overgrow !!!

 

My post is a mixture of "Nutrient Profiles and Deficiencies by Mr. HIGHway" and "Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver by Jackerspackle" with some cures that i had added for good measure (Since i saw that finding the problem leads to needing a cure).

 

Its good to see that we are all now providing a huge backup system for these files.

 

May i suggest that we get a torrent happening for files that could be useful in the future (or at least a spot we can post our own torrents for what we have)