Control your cannabis - Temperature and EC

[stonedstump]

Hello everyone.

 

I have had a couple of cannabis culture magazines lying around for a while and found some very useful articles that I've never found anywhere else.

 

Here is one of those articles that I have re-typed myself onto the computer.

 

It is a two page spread and I've only typed up part 1 which is the first page.

 

I will type up part 2 if I get good feedback on this one (the other one is about twice this size)

 

 

This article is about temperature control (if you read it), the other one (part2) is all about moisture conductivity (EC level) It's quite in depth too.

 

 

Let me know what you all think of it and if I should post part 2.

Let me know if you learn anything from it too.

 

[stonedstump]

Control your Cannabis - Cannabis Culture, Issue #45 May/June 2000

 

Fine-tuning temperature and water for maximum quantity and quality.

 

 

Story by DMT

 

 

Why waste light and electricity growing stem? Strecthed-out plants are the bane of indoor growers.

There are several ways to reduce internordal length and thus grow denser, ore efficient buds.

 

Part1

 

Temperature control

The easiest and most underused way to control internodal stretch is temperature control.

Plant internodal length is directly related to the differenece between the day and night temperatures - the warmer your day is as compared to your night cycle, the greater your internode lengths will be. The opposite also holds true; the closer your day and night temperatures, the shorter your internodes will be. Ever notice how as the warmer summer months approach, your plants begin to stretch? Part of this problem may lie in an overall hotter grow-room, but a larger factor is the increased difference between day and night temperatures.

 

Lets look at putting this to play in your grow room. Maximum temperatures should ideally never rise above 26 degrees celcius, so you must do everything you can to prevent your room getting too hot (run lights at night, use exhaust fans, air conditioners, etc). An ideal temperature range is 24-25 degree when the lights are on, and 22 degrees when the lights are off.

 

 

The temperature technique is most effective under a 12/12 light regime, which is ideal as this is when cannabis stretchs the most. When the light cycle is brought to 12/12 we will raise the night temperature to the daytime level of 24-25 degrees. Space heaters on timers work well for this, and max/min type thermometres.

 

It is during the first 2-3 weeks of the flower cycle that most strains begin to lengthen internods, making it a very important time to control temperatures, as this is when the framework for future coals is built. After this 2-3 weeks window we need to drop the night temperature back down to 22 degrees, as this is where the plant is happiest.

As floral development begins we need to keep in mind that the total size of your buds is determined largely by average daily temperature, provided it does not exceed optimal. So if you are letting your day temperatures drop below 24 degrees or your night drop below 22 degrees, you are costing yourself in overall weight and harvest.

 

Once your buds have reached optumal size and you have begun the flushing period, you may consider dropping temperature down to 17-19 degrees for the final week or two.

This drop in temperature triggers anthacyanin production, which intensifies the colour of the floral clusters and makes for a showier bud, espescially with "purple" varieties. This final temperature change is not always feasible and can be ommited.

 

 

For extreme height control you may even use warmer night temperature than day, but be very careful when running settings like this, as even a zero difference between night and day temperatures will lead to leaf chlorosis (yellowing) after 2-3 weeks.

 

Some things you will notice while using this technique are a change in the leaf angle, upwards during warm days and downwards during warm nights. There is also the chlorosis if this is done for too long. Neither of these symptoms is nutrient related and will fix themselves when the temperature is changed back.

Edited July 5, 2006 by stonedstump

[Budman2012]

Huh?

It's a little short man

But indeed so Indepth I could not even see it

Bye now (j.j.)

 

Ahhh Shit! (EDIT) ya beat me stonedstump hehehe oh well , sorry.

jeez I'm dumd

Edited July 5, 2006 by Budman2012

[stonedstump]

You posted your reply before I added the actual article didn't you?

 

Well now it's here, have a read and let me know what you think of it .

 

Cheers

[stonedstump]

I've started on the second part of the article.

 

I'll post it later on today.

[Budman2012]

hehehehehe , yeahh , my woops , hehehe

(ohhh , real funny Budman!)

Nah , I liked those Ideas man.

It makes perfect sense to me , tho If I wanted to try and follow it properly , I would have to re-read and write down numbers and such.

Well , I can come back here and read it again if I decide to start a cupboard grow this winter.

It's a pretty big (Already white) cupboard , and I've got a 400w to use , but I still have to keep things In that cupboard (small room u know ) clothes and stuff.So I'm not too sure if It's wise.

 

Anyway , Seeya round Stonedstump , take care , and I'll read part two when It arrives

 

Bye Now.

[stonedstump]

Yeah it is abit hard to understand without reading it a couple of times.

 

It's written in Canada I think so that explains it, .

 

 

But yeah, it is good information and I have found in my own experience that it's true what they say.

 

Have too big of a difference between your day and night temperatures is not good.

[Frazz]

Sounds great in theory, but in practice i reckon it would be a pain in the ass

 

biggest factor in plant internodal length is genetics IMO

 

 

[Stoney]

yeah i have at the moment huge differances between my day temps and night temps like 24c when lights are on and 6-10c when off and my internodal spacing is pretty good i recon

 

but good article thanks stump

 

have a good one let me know if it works well for ya

[stonedstump]

Genetics could also (and probably do) play an important role in it.

 

I think this article would apply in a sense to plants of certain genetic variety.

 

I know I've seen my plants do the same as what is described in that article. I'm definately going to try the colder temperatures while I'm flushing before harvest though (lucky I have an air-conditioner ).

 

Should be a nice smoke I reckon.

 

I will upload the second part later as an edit to my first post. I have shortened it by about half as the last half of it only applies to soil (EC, that is).

 

 

I will let you all know how it goes