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poratble A/C do pull in fresh air as the vent out the hot air to cool the motor you could use one of these in ur shed as a venting/cooling system if this A/C will keep your temps below 30c u only need to change the air in ur shed once per hour im sure if its a 3x3 shed one of these portable A/C will vent enough air.... as everyone else said the split system A/C dont vent they only recirculate the same air i say if it keeps ur temps below 30c you will be able to use it alone without any exhaust fans... as long as the hot air from the motor is ducted away from your shed

mushy is using one in his GR contact him ask how much cfm his poratble moves this should give u an idea

Edited by Gazza2001au
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very inportant , Get one that is manua,l no remotes as manual type come back on after a blackout, can be controlled by a temp controller as back when and If extra fansare needed to come on at same time. The splits are best for inside a house and the wall units are the easiest to set up for a grow box as the fan inside is quiet and powerful enough to push through ducting. The A/C units need to have hot air removed fast an efficiently out of the room the grow box is in. What i do is use a heat resistant glue to fix a humidi crib tray with a 300mm hole cut in center onto back of cooler (outside section) connect no more than 1.5 meter of duct . I also have one of those portable numbers not good at all and cost near $1000, could have bought 3.5 of the wall types, they are not as powerful but ok for one or two small lights ,has remote so if the power goes out or turned off memory is lost and wont work with a temp controller for this reason. Heat removal is no where as good as the wall unit but are convienient for personal use and dialing a temp in grow also most have good dehumidifing features .
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Hi all

 

Can I use an A/C with a digital thermostat setting (split system type) 1kw to cool a 3 x 3m grow shed running a 1000w MH?

 

Can I use the A/C as the only source of air with NO intake or outtake fans?

treestump

If 1 kW is the rated cooling input that should be enough for night. If you use it during the day the sun's light energy has to be added to your grow light's energy to form the cooling capacity required of the air-conditioner. The sun's rated heat output is

342 watts of energy into every square meter at the Earth. For the shed then, for direct sun, overhead:

 

3 x 3 metres x 342 watts/square meter = 3 kW

 

E.g. if your unit is rated for a cooling capacity of 8000 British Thermal Units per hour that's equivalent to

 

8000 x 0.2929 = 2.3 kW cooling power,

 

by the conversion rate: 1 Btu/hour equals 0.2929 watts.

 

The metal Halide will act like a 1000 W heater.

 

So, daytime that's: 3 kW (Sun, theoretical max.) + 1 kW (light) = 4 kW heat

4 kW heat – 2.3 kW cooling power = 1.7 kj of energy accumulating every second.

 

That's 1.7kW of heat to be radiated from the shed at noon, day-time. Which is why running it at night is such a temptation.

...If you run your lights at night you'll solve half your problems. ... :smoke

But, beware, if you're air-conditioning it will blow hot air from a hot shed into the atmosphere like an infra-red beacon which could be surveilled at night. You will have to weigh the pros and the cons of this. lol

 

I believe split cycles have only a fluid which runs between the internal unit and the external unit, or is that a split system? What do you have one or two units? If two, do they exchange air?

 

If it is truly split-cycle and split-system you could double your growth by applying the gas carbon dioxide to the grow room. :eatingtime:

...Plants grow at a maximum of 1500ppm of Co2 in the air the earths atmosphere is only at 300.... so replacing the air as quickly as possible is a MUST for any indoor grow...
You can purchase a variety of Co2 setups which vary in price. You would then vent the air several times daily and let the Co2 level come back up in between vents.
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