Water Parameters

[Aquaponix]

OK I have a rather unusual setup for those who aren't familiar the link is below. Though I grow a kind of hydro set up I know very little about hydro.

 

I need to know if there is a piece of information available that lists the ppm's of nutrients that plants prefer in Hydro. And is DWC or recirculating systems different in feeding requirements, if so, why?

 

Do temperatures play a part in nutritional uptake of plants (they affect fish feeding rates)

 

Also, what does the conventional test type equipment that growers use test for?

 

Nitrate? Phosphate? Etc.

 

Do testers give you seperate figures for seperate nutes?

 

With these figures, some equipment, and similar figures for what fish can cope with (more bloody study) I should be able to create a precise nutritional plan for Aquaponics.

 

This will of course eventually equate to legendary buds. :smoke

[Pure]

I need to know if there is a piece of information available that lists the ppm's of nutrients that plants prefer in Hydro. And is DWC or recirculating systems different in feeding requirements, if so, why?

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well speakign from my own experiance I found htat plants can take a higher ppm level with a recirculating system and it can also cope with the water beign a little warmer ,

 

dwc is quite finnicky in how it likes it's temperature and I found that if you try and boost the nutrient levels too fast or too high then you end up burning them and have them lock up allot easier

 

Do temperatures play a part in nutritional uptake of plants (they affect fish feeding rates)

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It all depends on which of those systems your running but if the water is too cold the plant will be shocked and not feed properly in either of the systems , if it is too warm I can't say what happens as I have never had the problem but I am sure somone who has played wit dwc more could tell you as dwc is once again effected by slightly high temps in most cases outside DWC though you don't really have to worry about your water being too hot unless it is really heating up or unles it's bad for the fish

 

Also, what does the conventional test type equipment that growers use test for?

 

Nitrate? Phosphate? Etc.

 

Do testers give you seperate figures for seperate nutes?

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You will find that most of the people that Do test those levels use a truncheon which is good for tellign you an overall level , however it doesn't break anything down for you , I looked a while ago for a product like this to use myself and I did find them in a few Aquarium suplier places however for their price I never bothered with that toy as I didn't need it enough , with the plant levels every strain likes different levels of different things but if you stick with a couple of strains and know them as intimatly as you do your system, then you will just naturally know what they like , in your case and for the fishes sake the spend may be worth it to look into on e of those meters though but I only got convinced a few days ago by you to study fish a little so I know nothign about their limits on environment at this stage , I would sugest you ask a Q about this product in the hydro aqua pet section , if they can't get somehtign in for you they will know someone who can

 

 

With these figures, some equipment, and similar figures for what fish can cope with (more bloody study) I should be able to create a precise nutritional plan for Aquaponics.

 

This will of course eventually equate to legendary buds.  :smoke

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Yaaaayyyy for you :thumbsup and us watchign in the background :smoke

[Aquaponix]

Hydro Aqua Pet :: how could they not be destined for Aquaponics with a name like that. They could be the first Aquaponic 'hobby' suppliers in the world.

 

If they show me the ways of the force I may show them the ways of the fish :yingyang

 

Various breeds can survive and indeed thrive in slower moving more nutrient enriched environments but the actual parameters of water content and toxicity levels for specific breeds are hard to come by. Some are available just googling the right words and then following the right link, or meeting/linking to the right fishkeeper...

 

The quest for excellence is of course a mission from God. I was placed on this planet to save the masses of MJ smokers from the evils of chemical fertiliser and 4 'n' 20 pies..

 

Only through superiority will we conquer! For only profits shall speak to the greed of the Dealer, bigger buds fill more bags. 4 score n 20 years ago! Bla bla bla! ::

 

Actually I love pies. :thumbsup

 

Thx for the advice, bit pickled.

[Luke Skywalker]

There was a good article in Practical Hydropoincs and Greenhouses regarding an aquaponics system which required only the addition of some iron chelate and some nitrifying bacteria in a cascading recirculation point (clay balls in foam trays stacked about 20 levels high) to produce some excellent lettuce. However, these are low nutrient level plants, you may have to modify the system to produce the levels which MJ likes, being a gross feeder.

 

That's just from my all to fallible memory mind, check out hydroponics.com.au for PH&G's website, you may find something there.

 

As to some of the other questions. Yeah, you may want to check your nitrate levels in aquaponic systems to fine tune but generally a truncheon or similar EC meter is all you'll need, provided you bleed off or replace the nutrient solution (in this case also your aquaculture solution) every now and again.

 

Hope that helps.

[Aquaponix]

Thanks Luke.

 

Lettuce growing Aqua is Aqua 101 been there 2 years ago but thanks.

 

The bleeding off or changing will never happen. I run zero waste now. What that means is I do not remove solids from my system nor do I change water.

 

I have not changed my res water for over 2 years. I don't plan to start I not only want economy of inputs I want economy of labour inputs too.

 

Of course I top up with water and my plants are now drinking a gallon a day.

 

The reason I need to study toxicity levels and determine what plants levels are is so I can see what is going in, and what is being taken up, anything else (accumulations) needs to be addressed.

 

I've run zero waste nearly 6 months now. The only thing that bothered me was 2 days ago the biggest fish showed signs of a disease. On closer inspection it's injured itself smashing into the filters and things when it feeds (crazy fish thinks it runs the place)

 

A drop of tea-tree oil (thanks Aussie science!) should clean it up.

 

Maximum efficiency and output will have no changeouts and no waste.

 

It's achievable, and every bit of information helps no matter how I answer it. The quest shall continue, the Cannabis Cup shall be mine. :thumbsup

[Luke Skywalker]

What about the gross feeder factor?

[Aquaponix]

Gross feeder factor? Hope it's not gross?!

 

What I've learned in last 2 days is

 

pH - buffering capacity

GH - general hardness

KH - Calcium carbonate (which determines the...)

dH - degree of hardness

Salinity - overall density of pH, GH KH & dH plus sodium and other dissolved substances.

 

 

KH is also referred to as a waters buffering capacity.

 

The larger the KH the better the pH buffer is. Since a swing of pH of over .5 is detrimental to plant health a larger buffer allows more nutrients added at once without harm to your plants. :thumbsup

 

RO and distilled water have no dissolved solids and thereby no buffer.

 

A grower with soft water can adjust pH and the next day it's dropped again. Why? No KH = no dH = no stability for pH.

 

So folk chase the correct pH in circles meanwhile adding more and more pH up or down to your system, changing out the water, etc etc.

 

As salinity gives the figures of all the above plus whatever dissolved solids are remaining this will be my indicator of build-ups in the system.

 

Through measuring inputs and averaging outputs via foliar measurement build-ups of specific nutrients should be seen well before toxicity.

 

As I run such a self regulating type system (self cleaning) a build up in salinity would denote time for a partial water change, and that's about it.... :reallyexcited:

 

Harden water (Raise GH and kH together) with calcium carbonate. 1 tsp per 100 ltr to increase both reading approx 1-2 dH. (1 unit dH = 17.8 ppm)

 

Raise ONLY the KH with baking soda. 1 tsp per 100 ltr raises KH dy 1 dH.

 

Soften water with filters, though I wouldn't unless your water's starting ppm is over 320.

 

As to fish toxicity levels, got them too, though not all species i will use in future I have what i need to start on the model which will be a 4 metre by 4 metre greenhouse with my veggies in it.

 

And uh, of course, when i have my test equipment finally,

 

Towards the Holy Grail 1 :smoke

[Luke Skywalker]

don't adjust pH with sodium chemicals. Sodium is not required in any large quantites by plants, and can seriously harm them if the solution strength gets too strong. Use potassium hydroxide if you need to. You can buy pH monitors/dosers which will dose pH and nutrient solution to the tanks when pH levels get out of hand too much.

 

In reality, if your water gets to hard it's worse than being too soft. You'll always have fluctuating pH levels as plants remove nutrients from solution, although with careful mixing of ammonium and nitrate forms of nitrogen (usually 1:10 respectively) you can help reduce these fluctuations. But you should be very careful, as ammonium is rapidly absorbed by the plant and can seriously harm it if overdosed. This the nitrifying bacteria thing I was saying earlier.

 

MJ is a gross feeder which means that it needs a heck of a lot of nutrients in comparison to light feeders like lettuce. I think it's possible to use aquaculture to grow MJ, but I feel you're going to be doing a heck of a lot of damage to the fish unless they're able to withstand serious amounts of nutrient salts.

 

Try contacting the peeps at advanced nutrients by email and they may be able to provide you with specific plant nutrient uptake data. They might tell you to sod off mind you but it's worth a try.

 

So have you actually grown MJ in this system or has it so-far been restricted to vegetable production?

 

I wouldn't be expecting superior results either, as you're trying to find a happy medium between two cultures and not concentrating on one.

 

Good luck though, and let us know how it goes.

[Aquaponix]

Dude, look at my link. I am growing Aqua and doing very well at it.

 

 

Now you seem awful smart, and well read, so lets continue.

 

Soft water with little buffering capacity is a nightmare for pH adjustment. The water always swings rapidly. No hardness = no buffer.

 

So every few days you'll try add pH up or down and correct it but it never comes completely right.

 

Hard water with a pH of 7 can take a hit of nutes and climb only as far as 7.2 (bio Jack Herer/super skunk grow NZ 2005) then is back on 7 the next day!

 

I never knew why bio was so well buffered before but I do now. Masses of bacterial population and a reasonable dH. Filtered water being a NO NO for bio.

 

I've had several hydro growers see the explosive growth I'm pulling and who've tasted the weed.

 

I'm creaming them in strength and size.

[dsyfer]

Dude, look at my link. I am growing Aqua and doing very well at it.

 

 

Now you seem awful smart, and well read, so lets continue.

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Your just having a ball today aren't you