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By Request -- Vapir ONE v3.0 Modification Tutorial


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Based on a video I recently posted in this thread, I was asked if I could write a tutorial demonstrating how I modified my Vapir ONE v3.0 to obtain the level of performance I achieved in that video, so here goes:

 

Foreword:

 

The reasons one might want to modify a Vapir ONE v3.0 are two fold:

 

1) The unit leaks vapor through the tiny cracks and crevices which hold the unit together. The tray door itself, that you slide the herb disc into, leaks around the edges, as well. All in all, this really let's out a tremendous amount of vapor, a majority of which should be going ... well, into you!

 

2) The bag that comes with the inflation kit is simply too small to hold more than one full inhalation, but then that may depend on the size of your lungs. I can only get one hit out of it, though. Not only is the bag too small, but the weight of the plastic material used for the bag is also a bit weighty, which makes it hard for the machine to fully fill up the bag at a medium fan setting, which in my opinion is really the preferred fan setting for vaping.

 

Follow this tutorial as I suggest and you'll definitely see a MAJOR(!) improvement in your Vapir's ability to vaporize your herb.

 

The cost for the modifications to fix those issues borders on next to nothing(masking tape and a Reynolds oven bag), and many people probably already have at least one or even both of the items needed laying around their house somewhere. If not, they're super cheap.

 

So, if you haven't done so already, acquire some masking tape, preferably black to match the color of the unit although any color will do(I used a shitty looking green masking tape because that's all I had at my disposal!), so long as it's a decent quality tape. You'll also need to obtain some Reynolds oven bags, and they're fairly cheap at most grocery stores. You really only need one, though.

 

I'll assume you've obtained the required materials, so let's continue.

 

Tutorial:

 

To summarize ahead of time, and this is really simple, you're basically going to just tape up all the areas where you feel air escaping, then modify the oven bag so as to replace the stock bag that comes with it.

 

Taping the unit:

 

1) Put the tray (which holds the herb disc) in the tray door *without* an herb disc and turn the unit on. You won't need an herb disc in the tray because we're not trying to vaporize anything. What you're going to do is basically feel around the unit to determine where air is leaking out. This is relatively simple because it leaks almost everywhere, especially through the tray door.

 

Using your hand (preferably the back of your hand as it's more sensative to air than the palm) begin feeling around the unit for air escaping. You won't have to move your hand very far because the leakage is nearly anywhere where you see a crack or crevice. Believe it or not, even the buttons leak air!

 

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TAPE THE ROUND, OPEN VENT AT THE BASE OF THE UNIT. THIS IS THE ONLY AREA THAT MUST *NOT* BE TAPED. DOING SO MAY DAMAGE THE MACHINE AS THERE WILL BE NO AIRFLOW, AND THERE MUST BE AIRFLOW TO KEEP THE UNIT FROM OVERHEATING.

 

Masking tape is generally a lot wider than regular Scotch tape, so when you use the tape, you may want to cut the width in half before applying it to the unit, unless you need to cover a larger area(such as the buttons). How you want to do this is really up to you, though.

 

Here are some pictures from different angles to give you an idea of what you're trying to accomplish:

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/front.jpg

(FRONT)

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/bottom.jpg

(BOTTOM)

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/side.jpg

(SIDE)

 

 

Yes, put tape over the buttons, but be careful not to tape them tightly. You don't want to fire the machine up, press a button and have it stick in that position because the tape was pressed hard and tight/snug over the buttons. I've had the Celcius/Fahrenheit switch do just that before and it made it seem as though the machine was malfunctioning because I didn't understand why the other buttons wouldn't work! So it's very important to keep the tape loose -- leave a little air pocket around the buttons but still cover them with tape nonetheless. You can press the tape around the *edges* of the air pocket firmly to secure the seal, however. Do the same for the fan speed switch.

 

Also, I highly recommend removing the strap that comes with it, so you can tape the back. I never used the strap and found it gets in the way more than serves a useful purpose. I seriously doubt you'll miss it, so just undo it and put some tape there, as this is another area on the machine where I could feel air escaping. The image below demonstrates how it appears once taped:

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/back.jpg

(Back of the unit)

 

Tray door:

 

Since a lot of vapor will escape through the cracks around the tray door, you'll want to address that as well. Look at the pic (above) showing the front of the unit. You'll want to tape the bottom part of the opening to the tray door as shown in the pic. What you're basically trying to accomplish here is to add some padding around the opening to seal the cracks.

 

You'll then want to tape up the herb disc tray (the thing that holds the herb discs and slides into the unit) itself, as shown here:

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/tray-front.jpg

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/tray-side.jpg

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/tray-bottom.jpg

 

I probably used 2 pieces of tape (one on top of the other) to thicken up the edges so as to seal the cracks further. This works really well if you do it right, and if you do do it right you'll notice that the tray is pretty resistant to being pushed in all the way, however it shouldn't be a huge fight to get it in the unit. Yes, it will take a lot more pressure to insert it *ALL the way in - till it locks in place* but you should be able to do it without too much of a fight.

 

The tray door is probably the most important (because more vapor escapes through this area than any other in my opinion) yet frustrating area to try and seal because it takes a little patience to get the tape thickness and sealing correct. However, if you exercise a little patience and take your time to make sure it's sealed correctly, the seal will eventually remain in place nearly indefinitely, or at least a very long time(I haven't had to adjust mine since).

 

Top of the Unit:

 

The top of the unit is also very important, as it leaks nearly as much as the tray door. These two areas are critical. If you tape nothing else, tape these!

 

The top of the unit has a removable cap. Even with the cap secured in place, there's still enough of a gap in the seal that the vapor can escape quite easily. What you want to do is tape from the base of the top to around the tube, but leave enough of the tub untaped to allow for the bag to fit over it. The picture below should give you a good idea as to what I'm referring to.

 

http://myweb.cebridge.net/jacyscott/misc/tutorial/top.jpg

(TOP)

 

Anyway, You can keep the unit running as you apply the tape, feeling for leakages with the back of your hand along the way to ensure you've sealed them all. The more you tape, the easier it will be to identify the remaining leaks because the air won't have as many places to escape, making the spots where it's still leaking more pronounced.

 

Trust me, everywhere you see tape in those photographs was a spot that was leaking.

 

All of this may sound like a lot of work, but it's really not. It takes more time to describe the process than to actually do it. Just keep in mind that with every piece of tape you apply to a leak, you're making your unit that much more effective.

 

Once you're satisfied that you've taped everything up to the best of your ability, give yourself a pat on the back and relish the ugliness that is now your new, supercharged vaporizer!

 

Creating The New Vapor Storage Bag:

 

As mentioned in the Foreword, you'll want to replace the stock bag that's supplied with the inflation kit, as it's simply too small and bulky. There's a much better alternative -- a Reynolds oven bag.

 

The process for converting it was explained to me by another forum member (Infinitee) so I'll copy and paste his method:

 

"All you have to do to replace the bag is cut off the opening, cut off the protruding sides so it's a cylindrical air valve, go buy yourself some Glad or OSO Oven Bags and attach that with a rubber band (doubled over the bag with the air valve, twice). And there you have a FAR SUPERIOR bag to the Vapir one. It expands much easier and you get good big bags on medium fan setting."

 

If you can find Glad or OSO bags, those may work just as effectively, however all I could find in my area were Reynolds oven bags. To append his comments, let me add that I had to use a couple of rubber bands to get the seal really, really tight. This is VERY important! You especially don't want a leak there because this is what holds all your vapor. Make absolutely certain it's hermatically sealed (airtight, that is).

 

And with that, we can pretty much conclude the tutorial, although for new (and old) Vapir users, I feel I can offer a few extra tips related to the operation of the unit that will really help you get the most out of it.

 

1) Let the herb disc cool down before reinserting. I've found that when the disc cools down, for some reason I'm able to obtain more vapor after reinsertion. To avoid having to wait for it to cool down though, just use two herb discs and swap them out between bags. The bottom line is your herb will go a lot farther.

 

2) When the bag is full, remove the disc tray first then remove the bag. Don't leave the disc tray in the unit while you're taking a hit from the bag. Obviously keeping it in while there's no bag will cook your herb and waste vapor at the same time. However, don't worry about turning the temperature off. Keep it on the entire session. The unit has a timer that is factory set to automatically turn off the heating element after 10 minutes. You can't adjust this, but you can simply push the temperature on/off button twice in quick succession to reset the timer.

 

3) Try to keep the unit as upright, straight (not tilted) and as stable as possible, as I've found this keeps the temperature more stable. They really need to sell a stand with the unit, but I have a guitar stand that does the job. Just remember not to try and not let the unit tilt. So, you should try not to move the unit at all while the bag is filling up. Keep it as still as possible. If you have to adjust the temperature or press buttons or whatever, do so, but unnecessary movement effects the heat. You want the actual temperature and the set temperature to be as close as possible, and fiddling with the bag or moving the unit slightly while it's vaporing will only contribute to the temperature jumping all over the place. Over time, I've found the unit actually becomes more stable in this respect anyway, but small movements and fiddling have a big effect on how stable the temperature is.

 

4) Try using approx. 2 pinches worth of herb. You don't need to fill the herb disc all the way to the top. Doing so impedes airflow through the herb. I've found that two pinch-fulls is just about right; it's not too much(airflow is good,) but it's enough to allow you to obtain about 3 or 4 good bags of vapor from one disc. I'm not sure what that works out to in terms of actual weight, but I'd surmise it's somewhere around .2 or .3 grams worth of herb per disc.

 

If anyone who has a Vapir has anymore tips to add, feel free to throw them on the fire.

 

Anyway, if you follow this tutorial and use these tips, you'll be on your way to a GREAT vapor high!

 

Good luck, and have fun with your NEW vaporizer!

Edited by ColdFrixion
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Well done ColdFrixion, great tutorial.

 

Just 2 things i'd like to mention. You said to try and keep the unit as upright as possible, but i've always laid mine on it's side on a table or whatever and have had pretty good temps. I think as long as your not obstructing the airflow it should be right.

 

And also i think it IS wise to fill up your herb disc (most if not all of the way) otherwise you get a weaker hit. BUT you must chop your herb up properly, if your mix is too fine then it Will affect airflow, but nice fluffy-sized mixes work great and give you a stronger vapour. Also it's been reccomended to me to take out the herb disc when the vapour Starts to weaken, stir it and re-insert. Fairly obvious but worth a mention.

 

And despite the sexiness of your mucus-green Vapir :peace: I think i might go for clear tape, that way when your really vaped, you can tell which buttons are which.

 

Thanks again mate, the more people that can enjoy vaping, fairly cheaply the better.

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Great tip about stirring up the herb! What I usually do is shake the disc with the top on, but then I generally don't fill more than 1/3rd of the disc with herb.

 

Before I taped mine up however, I had to use nearly a full disc of herb to get the same amount of vapor I get at the present. However, I've found I can definitely get at least 3 or 4 bags with the disc about 1/3rd full, which is how much I used in the video. If and when you do tape it up, try using that amount and see if you're able to obtain the same amount of vapor as before. I think you may just be pleasantly surprised. :peace:

 

Also, it probably would work Ok with the unit on its side with a full disc, however with the amount I use, it inevitably causes the herb to slide to one side, causing a really uneven vape, or at least that's what I've found. Also, I noticed when I really straightened the unit, kept it upright and avoided movement, the temperature only fluctuated by about +-3 or 4 degrees at most, and I was surprised at how long it would actually remain at the exact temperature I set it before fluctuating even slightly. According to a user on another forum who reviewed the Super Vapezilla, he said the temperature in that unit didn't fluctuate or waver at all, and many people believe this is critical to getting the highest quality vapor possible.

 

Let me know how the clear tape works out, by the way.

 

Hey, did you manage to get your unit back or is it still being repaired?

Edited by ColdFrixion
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A great bloke at the shop i bought it from is sending it back to manufacturer, and sent me a New one, that's arriving Tuesday/Wednesday, so it's all good (except that i can't stand waiting for it, been killing my lungs over X-mas/New Years).

 

As soon as i get it, i'll try taping and keeping it upright and report back here on how it goes.

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Well i got it (and lovin' it) back and have tried taping up.

 

No clear tape on hand, so i used masking tape, but just cut off like 3-5mm strips and just sealed up the cracks. Still makes the unit look nice and works well.

 

I've noticed HUGE improvement, seriously people, you have GOT TO try this. It turns a $200 odd bucks of fairly good vaping, into quality that is way better on your stash (and your lungs) than any other smoking method (that i've tried anyway, ;)).

 

One thing to note, ColdFrix and others, i didn't tape up the buttons (and a few other parts) but below the buttons there's a small (1-2mm) hole, now this seems to be PURELY used to ventilate the Digital Air Parts (which is underneath that hole) and so i wouldn't reccomend taping it up. No problems immediately maybe, but just to be safe i wouldn't cover it. It still vapes excellent without that hole or the buttons!

 

Thanks ColdFrix, i owe you heaps mate!

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Cool, raver. I think you'll be very, very pleased.

 

Incidentally, I removed the awesome snot colored masking tape from mine and re-taped it using black electrical tape(pic shown below). It looks sleeker, and the electrical tape seems to work just as well. I looked into silicon to plug the leaks but every bottle I looked at down at the hardware store indicated it was harmful if inhaled and must be used in a well-ventilated area. I don't know. I don't really feel like chancing it though. If anyone else wants to try silicon and report back, I'd be interested to hear how it worked.

 

http://www.filelodge.com/files/hdd5/117694/Pictures/vapir_black.jpg

Edited by ColdFrixion
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ColdFrixion I actually went with the silicon along the places where the air leaked and it turned out fine. But there were places where it was hard to tell if the silicon completely covered the cracks so I went over it with clear masking tape just to be sure. I have yet to modify the oven bag, but I do have one and intend to do so soon. So far I used the unit a good amount and there haven't been any complications from the silicon i'm aware of. Thanks for the tutorial and i'll keep you updated on the silicon situation.
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